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Best Pads and Rotors

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Old May 10, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #1  
TL88IROCZ's Avatar
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From: Belmont, NC
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Best Pads and Rotors

I just bought an 88 Iroc and its in need of some brake pads and rotors. This is my first camaro and i dont really know what the best manufactuers are yet. I am looking for some slotted rotors, and some nice brake pads for the street with minimal dust. Thanks TL
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Old May 10, 2005 | 12:02 PM
  #2  
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Unless you are racing the car you really don't need anything special as far as rotors, and even then I usually run a cheaper one and just toss them as they get torched from running a harsher pad on the track. It's more cost efficient that way.

The slotting will be nothing but bling bling for a street car - and some might say even in a race application you don't need them with todays pad compounds. In other words buy the slotting if you want the "cool" looks but know that it won't make any difference in performance on a street car.

As for pads, it seems the EBC GreenStuff has gotten some good reviews from some people on here that really know their stuff on brakes. I have not tried them myself but I have used PFC Zs, Raybestos OEM replacement, and Hawk HPS on the street and out of those I would say the Hawk HPS offered the best low dust, low noise performance. They will fade if pushed hard repeatedly, but they are light years above stock replacement stuff with regards to torque and still don't dust much and are very quiet and aren't too hard on the wallet either....
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Old May 10, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #3  
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
EBC greenstuff work desenctbut are know to leave buildup on the rotors giving them a warped feeling over time.
I am only using them right nowbecause I am limited on choices for street pads with my application (see below)

The very best pads fordaily street use, for AutoX, and for very light roadcourse use(non-racing tire) is the Stillen MetalMatrix pads. Trust me, If I could get them to fit my current application I would buy them in a heartbeat.
Attached Thumbnails Best Pads and Rotors-400miles.jpg  
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Old May 10, 2005 | 04:34 PM
  #4  
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Oh yeah... forgot about those... I forgot that you said they rock. So, Dean, do you know if Stillen makes those for the PBR rears (413s) off the top of your head? And who do you use for a source to get those Stillens?
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Old May 10, 2005 | 09:03 PM
  #5  
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
They do make them for the PBR's, I live 10 mins from Steve Millen racing (aka Stillen) in So. Calif. I buy them directly at their doorstep for my other vehicles.

They are such a pleasing and confortable all around brake pad with a very good sweetspot feeling to them. A kind of do-no-wrong feeling brake pad that makes driving at any temp so comfortable.

I have never had one bit of noise from any Stillen pad on any application I own for years of use and probably 20 different purchases. The are very rotor friendly with no material harder than the rotor surfaceandnever any pad buildup on the rotor surface like the Greens do. I had nothing but problems with the EBC greens on the 10.5" rotors with warping buildup when I heated things up under more extreme uses. Hopefully the new 13's won't heat upas much so this won't be an issue (again hopefully)

ps- damn space bar is hanging up on me when I type

Last edited by RTFC; May 10, 2005 at 09:13 PM.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 12:18 PM
  #6  
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 87 Z-28
Engine: A worn-out 305
Transmission: T-5, until it dies
Axxis Metal Master pads with slotted rotors, available from Raybestos. The rotors won't make a huge difference, except
your pads will last damn near forever.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 12:26 AM
  #7  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Originally posted by M. Hall
Axxis Metal Master pads with slotted rotors, available from Raybestos. The rotors won't make a huge difference, except
your pads will last damn near forever.
Pads lasting a long time with slotted rotors? Not if they provide any kind of braking power I wouldn't think..
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Old May 15, 2005 | 04:00 AM
  #8  
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From: Lyon,MS
Car: 1987 TransAm
Engine: 350 Goodwrench
Transmission: 700R-4
Powerstop & PF

I have Powerstop rotors and Performance Friction Z pads and like them much better than Raybestos acid washed rotors and Brute stop pads.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 07:21 PM
  #9  
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 87 Z-28
Engine: A worn-out 305
Transmission: T-5, until it dies
Originally posted by DuronClocker
Pads lasting a long time with slotted rotors? Not if they provide any kind of braking power I wouldn't think..
Explain your reasoning, if you would.

If you cut down the heat, and the dust build-up, you'll get more life
out of your pads. I've sold probably 80-85 sets of the Raybestos
Brute-Stop slotted and/or drilled rotors, and everyone I've talked
with afterwords remarks how they don't squeal anymore, and they
never have to change pads anymore.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 09:08 AM
  #10  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Slotted rotors are designed to scrape the pads more to clean them off and keep them from glazing at all. Slotted rotors eat pads up more quickly because of this scraping.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 01:36 PM
  #11  
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Originally posted by DuronClocker
Slotted rotors are designed to scrape the pads more to clean them off and keep them from glazing at all. Slotted rotors eat pads up more quickly because of this scraping.
To add this correct info - In essence, it is the exact same reason why slotted rotors eat up the carbide cutting tips when you turn the rotors on a lathe. Everytime the tip hits the void from the slot and then rehits the surface again on the next side it takes a slight impact hit and causes wear when it hits the next surface edge rather than staying smooth on a continuous cut. Those slots will take material off the cutting tip also just like the pads.
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 11:53 AM
  #12  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Yep, I also didn't think slotted rotors cut down on heat at all, but I have been wrong before. I thought the slots where just for cleaning the pads, and drilled rotors were to eliminate brake fade with gas buildup. Neither really has much positive effect on cooling.
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 03:14 PM
  #13  
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by M. Hall
Explain your reasoning, if you would.

If you cut down the heat, and the dust build-up, you'll get more life
out of your pads. I've sold probably 80-85 sets of the Raybestos
Brute-Stop slotted and/or drilled rotors, and everyone I've talked
with afterwords remarks how they don't squeal anymore, and they
never have to change pads anymore.
Has anybody that you've sold them to tracked their car? Because I cracked the HELL out of a set on my GTA in a matter of a few laps using Wilwood B compound pads.... Those rotors sucked.
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