Brake line size?
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
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From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Brake line size?
Anyone know the size of the line running from the master cylinder to the rear brakes on a 85 Z28, with rear drums?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,812
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
double flaring is simple, jut rent the SAE standard double flaring kit at auto zone for 15 bucks or just buy one
it is simple to do
you also need a few dollar tubing cutter at a hardware store or mabye auto zone
works for all steel and copper and aluminum tubing
good luck
it is simple to do
you also need a few dollar tubing cutter at a hardware store or mabye auto zone
works for all steel and copper and aluminum tubing
good luck
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
double flaring is simple, jut rent the SAE standard double flaring kit at auto zone for 15 bucks or just buy one
it is simple to do
you also need a few dollar tubing cutter at a hardware store or mabye auto zone
works for all steel and copper and aluminum tubing
good luck
it is simple to do
you also need a few dollar tubing cutter at a hardware store or mabye auto zone
works for all steel and copper and aluminum tubing
good luck
It's a simple concept and I am following the directions and I just cant get it.
I have the tool and a tubing cutter
Will a compression fitting hold the brake pressure for drums?
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Yea, I didn't think it would work, yesterday when I was at advanced auto parts, I read the back of the passage, it said in BOLD print:
DO NOT USE ON HYDRAULIC BRAKING SYSTEMS
Ok, thats proof enough for me
Now I just need to find someone to flare the line for me, running the whole length of the line will be a pain and will most likely need to be shortened and therefore flared again
----------
Just curious, but can NOT using a tubing cutter greatly effect the ability to make somewhat of a flare?
DO NOT USE ON HYDRAULIC BRAKING SYSTEMS
Ok, thats proof enough for me
Now I just need to find someone to flare the line for me, running the whole length of the line will be a pain and will most likely need to be shortened and therefore flared again

----------
Just curious, but can NOT using a tubing cutter greatly effect the ability to make somewhat of a flare?
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 1
From: Indiana, PA
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
I just replaced some 1/4 brake line to the rear and the double flare isn't that hard to do. Just have to remember to put the fitting on first and clamp that sucker on good because it'll try to move when you do the flares.
Before I did the double flare the parts guy gave me a compression fitting and told me it was fine to use on brakes. I went back and did the double flare but I had to cut the compression fitting off, it wasn't going anywhere.
Before I did the double flare the parts guy gave me a compression fitting and told me it was fine to use on brakes. I went back and did the double flare but I had to cut the compression fitting off, it wasn't going anywhere.
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iTrader: (45)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,970
Likes: 1
From: Northern, VA
Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
Yea, I didn't think it would work, yesterday when I was at advanced auto parts, I read the back of the passage, it said in BOLD print:
DO NOT USE ON HYDRAULIC BRAKING SYSTEMS
Ok, thats proof enough for me
Now I just need to find someone to flare the line for me, running the whole length of the line will be a pain and will most likely need to be shortened and therefore flared again
----------
Just curious, but can NOT using a tubing cutter greatly effect the ability to make somewhat of a flare?
DO NOT USE ON HYDRAULIC BRAKING SYSTEMS
Ok, thats proof enough for me
Now I just need to find someone to flare the line for me, running the whole length of the line will be a pain and will most likely need to be shortened and therefore flared again

----------
Just curious, but can NOT using a tubing cutter greatly effect the ability to make somewhat of a flare?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
How are you gonna shoten the line without cutting it? Cutting it properly at that. You need a tube cutter that is the easiest part. Double flaring really isant that hard at all. You can pick up a flare kit at any autoparts store normally. Follow the directions on the back of the box. It make take a shot or 3 to get a nice flare at first but you get the hang of it real quick and its not that hard to do. Just get some tubing and practice.
In an above post I stated that I have the tubing cutter and the double flare tool. I just can't get it to flare properly, yes I have read the directions of the back of the box and yes I have tried it multiple times. It's just being a real PITA.
Re: Brake line size?
I have a 1983 Trans Am and I just sprung a leak where the main rear brake line bends sharply just before it goes into the rubber hose. I have purchased a new rubber hose at Autozone and the "T" connect will fit my standard 3/16" lines that go to each rear slave. Autozone could not find a fitting to fit the main line end of the rubber hose. It appears to be a pipe thread of some sort. I am hoping the old fitting is salvagable from the old rubber hose but if it is not I may be in the flaring business also.
From what I have seen, you NEED to get a tubing cutter in order to get a straight cut or the flare will be lopsided.
Since have a 1983 I am told my brake fittings were SAE. 1984 and later were metric. I do not know if this will affect what I need as this car has been worked on a number of times. The main rear line going to the proportioning valve has several adpaters on it and what looks to be a short section of 3/16" line going between the 1/4" line and the proportioning valve. From what I know about fluid dynamics, that is BAD.
Has anyone had to solve such issues recently? I see the previous post to this thread was only a few weeks ago so I am hoping someone has recent experience and some helpful comments.
BTW, I have rear drum brakes so I have solid steel lines going from the rubber hose's "T" connector to the wheel cylinders. I have replaced both wheel cylinders recently and my brakes were working great before this leak.
dzimmerm
From what I have seen, you NEED to get a tubing cutter in order to get a straight cut or the flare will be lopsided.
Since have a 1983 I am told my brake fittings were SAE. 1984 and later were metric. I do not know if this will affect what I need as this car has been worked on a number of times. The main rear line going to the proportioning valve has several adpaters on it and what looks to be a short section of 3/16" line going between the 1/4" line and the proportioning valve. From what I know about fluid dynamics, that is BAD.
Has anyone had to solve such issues recently? I see the previous post to this thread was only a few weeks ago so I am hoping someone has recent experience and some helpful comments.
BTW, I have rear drum brakes so I have solid steel lines going from the rubber hose's "T" connector to the wheel cylinders. I have replaced both wheel cylinders recently and my brakes were working great before this leak.
dzimmerm
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