So the quick version of the story is...

I am redoing my rear discs, rotors, pads, calipers.

The rotors are just stock replacements, as are the pads.

I went to Lordco for my calipers, the brand is Fenco.

So far I've gone through 2 passenger side calipers, and 3 driver side calipers.

The first time I installed both sides they appeared to be defective as I couldn't adjust the piston at all so I couldn't get the caliper with the pads on over the rotor. I used one of those tools to adjust it back on with some pressure and spinning it but the tool didn't do a damn thing. I took them back at got 2 more... These ones seemed better as they had all the brackets and the Ebrake spring already on them.

Installed them both, passenger side is fine, but the driver side leaked everywhere from the point where the hose connected to the caliper on the Banjo bolt.

So i removed the caliper, it seemed like garbage again, returned it.

Now I've got another caliper to try... For the driver side. But the piston is out too far for me to put the pads on it and slip it over the rotor...

How do I adjust the damn piston to get it in further so the pads can fit...

 

Heres the caliper... Ideas?

 

ive never dealt with the stock rear calipers that these cars came with, but ive never seen a caliper piston like that, does that thing with the 3 clips come off? the center of the piston should be a hollow opening. that piece looks like some kind of retainer that is used to keep the piston in while its packaged and shipped. i believe it should be removed, then if the piston is too far out you can press it back in with a c-clamp

 

On the Moraine/Delco-Moraine cast iron rear calipers the piston screws onto it's actuator rod in the bore.You may have to adjust the piston on it's actuator screw.I'm facing similar problems as my '83's rear calipers need to be rebuilt and or replaced.

 

So if these calipers end up just sucking... What's another caliper that I can use with stock rotors, something that doesn't break the bank as I've got suspension parts to buy

 

I have those calipers, they really suck they were only on 87-88 I think. I took them apart and spent bout 5 hours figuring out how to rebuild them, the just suck I can’t explain it exactly. If you don’t have a lot of time and pertinence don't mess with them. Even adjusted perfectly they don’t work worth a damb. Get a hold of some ls1 rear brakes and don’t look back. I have been looking for a good junkyard set to do other swap.

 

I'm all for putting better brakes back there, but as I say I don't want an expensive swap.

I'll do some searching on the LS1 swap then get back to er.

Thanks!

 

What about 89 and newer PBR calipers and brakes? They are on Ebay all the time.

 

I'd follow 86TA's advice. Looks like that clip might be keeping things from working for ya. I did the same thing you're doing last year. Once you remove that clip you should be able to use a c-clamp on it.

As far as the leaking lines goes, I've been there. You have to loosely install the adapter, washers and bolt before installing the lines. I didn't realize it at the time, but the adapters kept getting caught on the lip of the caliper and never sat flat.

 

C clamp does not work. There is a ratcheting system inside of the caliper along with a big *** spring, to get the caliper to go in the entire caliper needs to be dis-assembled, and the ratcheting system needs to be re-wound while compressing the bf spring, and then bolted back together without letting the BF spring slam you fingers. It sucks. Give it bout 5 hours to learn, and have leather gloves. Oh yes you will smash your fingers. Once you figure it out it can be done in bout 30-45 minutes a caliper. Those clips just help hold the pads while loading them into the brackets. Like I said they really suck.

 

Does it rotate as its pushed in? I wouldn't imagine he needs to push it in too far.

 

Each click on the ratchet is about 1/16 of travel. So if in needs to move back more than that it needs to be disassembled. Even when ajusted corectley they are just enough to hold the car while in gear. But not enough to stop the car if any momentum is present.

 

You need to keep pressure on the piston as you rotate it to retract the piston. There are tools made for that purpose. I found you can also take off the parking brake and rotate the stud the lever is attached to, it is possible to do with the caliper on the car but not easy getting the lever on and off in the right place so I would avoid that if possible. That clip in an anti-rattle spring that holds the inner pad in place. The rears are adjusted usint the parking brake, they do not self-adjust like the fronts do.

 

I've come to the conclusion that these calipers really do just suck, I hate them already...

So the only next thing to do is goto the LS1 swap?

Anyone have any ideas on a better back brake system that won't kill my bank?

 

With used parts prices held pushed higher by ICBC, Ebay is the place to be, or take a road trip to Seattle.
I used to live in Burnaby, BC is awesome but too expensive.

 

Hey I'm all for Ebay, but I just don't know what to look for.

Maybe I should be looking for a new rear end... 3.27 gears... Maybe I should just look for a new rear end and do a little swap...

But for now I need SOMETHING for brakes, I've already got those crap Fenco garbage. Guess I can make em work and get a new rear end at a later date.

 

Do not use a c-clamp. The piston screws in and cannot be pushed in. I justed screwed mine back in all the way. You shouldn't have to take the caliper apart unless you screwed it all the way out (i.e. off the screw). If you pressed too hard with the c-clamp, you may have stripped the screw in which case you'll need another rebuilt unit. It's not worth trying to take it apart. That clip may have to come off. A new one should come with your pads.

Use a pair of long nose pliers. Put the tips into the little depressions on the piston. Press and spin the piston back into into the caliper all the way in. Princess auto sells a tool for $6 that looks like a small cube that does the same thing.

Once the caliper is back on the car, you shouldn't need to fool around with the parking brake lever. The adjuster should only move the piston outward. If the piston is moving back and forth with the adjuster, then it's stuck and you should take it back.

Once it's working properly, see below on how to modify those rear brakes to work better:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...od-better.html

 

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couple of things...if the piston/internal latch mechanism for the parking brake is BAD, no matter what you do 1) the parking brake will not function and 2)you will not be able to retract the piston. With the age of these, many of the "rebuilt" calipers have been rebuilt so many times and they usually do not replace the piston. Last time I checked, a piston by itself was $50. Honestly the best thing you can do is get rid of the calipers and go with something else (89-> PBRs, LT1, or LS1 brakes) I went with the PBR option when I replaced the axle.

also you CAN use a c-clamp to provide pressure while you rotate the parking brake screw in the correct direction. many times with new piston seals and dust boots, you can't rotate the piston to collapse it enough to get the pads in because the seals are too fresh.

those calipers were a crappy design and 20 years worth of age hasn't made them better...

 

Try a tool that looks like this:
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...Cube&PID=16507

They cost about $6 and are available at most part stores. Also, the long nose plier trick does work on these calipers and other GM, Ford and Subaru disk e-brakes as well. It take a fair bit of force to turn the piston, but not much pressure to push it in because the adjuster screw is pulling the piston inwards, so a c-clamp should not be required. I would avoid the c-clamp because it pretty easy to damage the adjuster screw with too much inward force. Some manuals tell you to use channel lock pliers to turn the piston.

Is the parking brake lever attached when you are turning the piston? I suppose it is possible for the adjuster screw to be really seized up so that it rotates with the piston. Try putting the parking brake lever back on to hold the adjuster screw from moving when you rotate the piston.

Inside the piston, the parking brake adjuster uses a big spring with a little spring. The little spring is held inside the big spring with a circular retainer. The retainer was too weak and the big spring would bend it over time and force it against the inside of the piston. It still works OK when the piston is new and smooth. After some corrosion sets in, the surface is rougher and the retainer will stick to the inside of the piston and cause the whole adjuster to freeze.

 

Ok so say I wanna scrap those calipers and do a swap.

The LS1 swap, I heard it's with 13" calipers... Will they even work with my car since I've got the 16" stock Iroc rims.

Basicly I just want some damn brakes on my car that work, what's the easiest way I can simply have some brakes again? Is there a swap with another gen/car that I can just sort of bolt on, or at least do an easy swap?
Just tell me what to search for!