okay im about to do my brakes soon and im confused on what i need to buy still, i read the sticky for the rotors and its what is really confusing me. i know i need

new pads
rotors
shoes

but what im confused on are the front inner and outter bearings, and the front wheel seals, are these needed? do i need to replace these aswell? i really need to know what i need to buy so i can order it or buy it, also do i need a drum rebuild kit? self adjusting kit? help please!!

 

Yes you will need every thing you stated for the front when you are putting on new rotors plus new bolt seals.On the rear I would just clean the hardware and if anything was broken then replace it. On the rear this would be a good time to replace wheel cylinders and remember to only tear one side apart at a time so you have one that's together for you to look at. The bolt seals for the front are O-Rings that go in the same whole as the bolt.

 

Going through rockauto for my wheel seals and bearing. $20 beats $60 at zone. My total is $177.91. WOW!!!!

 

You don't need new bearings. I've put one set of bearings on my car (because they were making noise) and 3 sets of rotors (rotors keep rusting from sitting and then develop grabbing ) in 9 years. If the rollers appear smooth when you clean them up (yes, you will be able to tell if they're pitted, galled, or worse), punch the inner races out of the rotors and put them in the new ones (if they don't already come with the outer cups installed), or just repack the bearings and put them in the new rotors. If the bearings are damaged, however, get new ones. You will need to get new dirt seals for the inner sides of the rotors, however. You do want to clean the grease out of all of the bearings and repack them. I drop mine in a can of gas and shake the grease out.

And remove and clean the caliper slider sleeves and if necessary, replace the o-rings in the grooves in the sleeve bores. The sliders should move EASILY in the caliper ears. The same is true for the adjustment assembly for the drum brakes.

Also check all 3 brake hoses for cracks, bubbles, and bulges. Replace if needed.

:edit: Bolt seals? Never heard of those. Wheel seals, yes. Caliper slider o-rings, yes. Banjo bolt washers, yes. But not bolt seals.

 

Iv already bought everything but my outer bearings and 1 rotor, oh and cleaner. Went to rockauto and got Wagner thermoquiet pads and shoes, and timenkin wheel seals and inner bears for less than $60. And I grabbe a rotor today from zone. Getting the other tomorrow so I get my free $20 from them so I can get my outer bearings. And yeah iv never heard of bolt seals eithe, looked for them and found nothing. Do you know if our wheel cylinders are Metrix or standard? I may go ahead and replace thoughs and get drum rebuild kits too. Just to make sur everything is top notce and working correctly

 

There are pretty much only 3 reasons to replace the wheel cylinders:

1. It's locked up.
2. It's leaking.
3. You broke the bleeder screw in it. It's cheaper to replace the entire thing than fight with drilling the broken bleeder out. You'll probably need to get it out anyways to have enough room for a drill, so you're better off not worrying about the broken screw and just tossing a new one in.
Other than that, leave them alone. If you can push the pins in that push on the brake shoes, they're fine.

Get new drum brake hardware. And a couple quarts of brake fluid so you can flush the old crap out (brake fluid, except DOT5, absorbs water out of the air, which rusts the system from the inside out. Which is why it's recommended to change the brake fluid every 3 years, especially on a car with ABS). And a couple cans of brake parts cleaner.

If you can't get the drum off, it's probably got grooves in it from dirt. Take it to Monro or somewhere and have it measured before you ask how much to turn it. I'd rather pay $30 or so for them to turn the drums than pay $40 a piece for a new one. Anyways, it will probably be stuck. In which case, you will be better off cutting the hold-down retainer "nails" from the back. They're on either side, right in the middle of where the shoes ride. You'll need to pry them out first, though.

Oh, and do pop the cover off of the master cylinder and get some fluid out of it before you begin. If it's mostly full and the front brakes are worn, you'll blow the cover off AND get brake fluid, which eats paint, all over your engine compartment, when you push the pistons back in to put the new pads on.

Get your new rotors cut before you put them on the car. I've had new rotors only use half of their effective braking surface fresh out of the package because they're not cut straight...

:edit: Use anti-seize on the guide pin threads, and a bit of anti-seize on the 6 pads that the brake shoes sit on after cleaning the pads with sandpaper. You only need a thin film on the shoe pads. Don't overdo it, or you'll have to replace the rear shoes again. Also, anti-seize the threads and all contact points for the drum adjuster assemblies. You REALLY don't want those seizing up, or you'll lose rear braking .

 

iv got brake fluid here so all i really only need is cleaner, one of these days i want to change the brake fluid completly, but when i do that im replacing the booster, MS, and all the brake lines, iv already replaced the rubber lines so those are okay for now, and the calipers. the fluid is dirty looking and brownish so its gotta come out soon.

 

Let me restate my answer: I should of said at the beginning---When I do the brakes on my cars, to each there own style of repair.