Hi guys..below is a video on how to test our brake combination valve..i forgot to mention that u can also use a brake pressure guage to test the proportional valve..the fronts should read around 1200 or more and the rear brakes should have around 500-800 psi...u can subscribe to my channel for updates on future thirdgen vids..thanks!

 

Very nicely done. Finally a comprehensive explanation how OUR prop valves work!
I especially like the testing methods. I was never certain how to evaluate whether the thing is working properly and will use those tips to check my freshly installed system.

Thanks!

 

Thanks man..I know it is very hard to find good information on these things..

Thanks for watching! There are more videos to come!

 

Hey,

I did the paperclip-test and checked the movement on both ends. The pin moves out of the valve and back in, the paperclip also moves out and back in, though quite hesitatingly, I think.
There is about a half-second delay between fully pressing the pedal and paperclip movement. Is this normal?
Same goes for releasing the pedal.
It's like a thermostat. It "pops" open and back, no gradual movement.

 

that sounds normal..the valves have to have the right amount of pressure to build up before they both start moving

 

Ok, thanks. Makes sense.

 

This is a great help. I've always considered combination valves to be some sort of mystery. I know what they do. But I don't know WHY or HOW they do it. The ability to test them is beneficial to rule them out. Because let's face it, 90% of people here complain about having no to little rear braking. The aftermarket Grainger springs make sense now in terms of why they're better.

 

yeah i realized alot of people do complain about their brakes on thirdgens..just one more thing to rule out, like you said.

 

funny thing..my friend called me up the other day and was having metering valve issues on his car.. kind of a coincidence it was around the same time i did this video lol...

You guys might want to check and see if your metering valves are in working order..alot of people do not realize this...make sure when u take the mushroom cap off the metering and prop valves..that the valves arent stuck on the out position..or halfway out position....pretty much follow what i talk about in the vid to test them..

 

Thanks a ton for this info! I am fighting brake issues right now and this is my next thing to tackle.

 

oh..Irocmenace..did you find the issue?

 

If you've asked for other videos or have quesions about them, please PM the OP.

JamesC

 

Thank u

 

Just wanted to add the below video..you can check your brake pressures using the below gauge..i show how exactly to do it on a thirdgen. We were trying to see if the pressures to the back wheels were correct for the drum brakes that were on the car, in other words you can also check to see if your proportioning valve is working like it should.

 

Do you know what the P/N is for the thicker "Vette Spring" ?

 

In the first video, the OP states that the reason for having two separate springs is for panic stops. I'm thinking of adding an adjustable proportioning valve for autocross. They just have two passages and will apply the same pressure on all stops. Would I be making my car more dangerous on the street if I install the adjustable one?

 

Early third gens (like mine)don't have that extra valve.

 

Hi, can You answer me a quick question? On the red valve on the rear brake side of the prop valve, there is a small seal. behind the spring and the ridge on the valve. Witch way should the lip on the seal go. And where do the pressure come in, from the master cylinder? In on top, or in on the bottom port?

 

ANYBODY !!!!!
Someone who knows about this valve?

 

I am no expert by any means, but maybe this photo, (WHICH I TOOK TODAY) can be of use for you..





for your second question...I would think the fluid comes in from the top port an exits the bottom too right?