I need to get brakes this week, or at least ordered this week. Simply put, I'd like to replace all minor parts to the brake job. Let me know if I'm missing anything. I don't believe changing the master cylinder, lines or brake booster will be easy, or at least easy for someone doing their first brake job. Another reason I want to do everything related, for the most part, is so when I do my big brake upgrade, I'll have some experience in the area. Thanks guys.

Like I said, let me know if I'm missing anything in this overhaul. I̶'̶d̶ ̶l̶i̶k̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶d̶o̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶e̶l̶ ̶b̶e̶a̶r̶i̶n̶g̶s̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶d̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶a̶r̶t̶ ̶n̶u̶m̶b̶e̶r̶s̶ ̶y̶e̶t̶,̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶n̶'̶t̶ ̶r̶e̶s̶e̶a̶r̶c̶h̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶I̶'̶m̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶t̶r̶y̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶f̶i̶g̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶i̶s̶ ̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶o̶r̶d̶e̶r̶.̶.̶.̶m̶a̶y̶b̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶d̶a̶y̶/̶t̶o̶n̶i̶g̶h̶t̶.̶

Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear Drum x1

Parking Brake Cable - Front to Rear Drum x1

Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear Drum x1

Drum Brake Adjuster - Driver Side Rear x1

Drum Brake Adjuster - Passenger Side Rear x1

Brake Wheel Cylinder - Left/Right x2

Drum Brake Backing Plate x2 *Requires Axle Removal*

Master Cylinder Cap x1

Master Cylinder Resevoir Cover Gasket x1

Vacuum Resevoir x1

Speed Bleeder - Rear Drum x1

Speed Bleeder - Front Disc x1

Brake Line Kit - Front Disc/Rear Drum x1

Drum Brake Kit - Rear x1

Disc Brake Kit - Front x1

Wheel Seal - Front x2

Automotive Wheel Bearing Grease - Disc/Drum x1

Wheel Bearing - Front Outer x2

Wheel Bearing - Front Inner x2

Brake Fluid x? *Cheap stuff is fine*

Tool Drum Brake Spring Pliers x1

 

I wouldn't touch the master cylinder or booster unless you're having problems. I wouldn't touch the lines either unless they're rusted. If it's your first brake job, just get the basics down.
You are likely going to have a fun enough time with drum brakes, most of us do. Only do one side of the drums at a time!!!! You will want the other side together for reference on how to put them back together. Oh, the drum brake backing plate, you are going to want to leave that unless you plan on pulling the axle shafts to replace those. You can just get any kind of napa or autozone brake fluid too, you don't have to spend that much on it, since you aren't going ballz out with brake modifications yet. You will end up draining a lot of it when you upgrade down the road anyway.

 

read over this. it will help you out.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...r-install.html

 

Thanks, re-reading is always a good thing. Forgot about the bearings and seals. I think I have everything I want to tackle now. I've updated the list to show it. Some parts are backordered so I may do away with the ebrake cable replacement.

Am I missing seals for the rear drums? Or do those not get touched when doing a drum install. If the updated list looks good I'll order tonight, get them Friday, put them on over the weekend and hopefully smooth sailing to work Monday. Let me know guys.

 

Ordered.

 

I noticed you didn't have any of the actual brake parts on there.... pads, rotors, shoes, hardware, drums, etc. Are you waiting to replace the actual brakes until an upgrade and just do everything around them for now? I would also recommend replacing the rear hardware for the drums if you're going in there. Chances are the springs are worn out or broken, or they will break when trying to put it back together. For $20, its good insurance and you dont have to get it all from Summit, any parts store will carry it.

 

I do have a front disc kit and a drum kit in the list above. Summit gives me free shipping and handling and usually beats my local store prices. One day wait plus an easy return if anything goes wrong. I've had many fails returning defected products to my local shops. I can wait 1 more day going through Summit. Plus, it's how I help other members with the Summit Codes I constantly get. Thanks for going over this with me. Should have everything Friday and I will lay it all out beforehand to ensure every piece is working and fitting properly.

 

This is something to think about. I know you have drum's on the rear and they talk about changing the prop. valve spring on drum brakes on page 2. I am in the process of bleeding my brakes now after changing to a 19 lb spring. Here is the link; https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...e-upgrade.html By the way, if you would like to change yours out, I have 19 lb and 22 lb springs. I would send you what ever lb spring you want for free.

 

That sounds like something I'd be absolutely interested in. Please send me one. PMing you now.

 

Wow, do I have some stories for you guys. Stripped bleeder. Nobody mentioned new copper gaskets for the brake lines. Need new caliper bolt/guide bushings, that'd be something I'd replace in an overhaul, those weren't mentioned. So now that I never knew they were there I'm stuck. Parts store tomorrow, and everywhere says out of stock or backorder. Looks like I may be making my own COMPLETE Brake Tutorial. Everything you need to know about brakes, especially those little things people never mention, like caliper bolt bushings or new copper gaskets for brake lines. I'm sick of these half-arsed tutorials on here getting stickies. I'll have all part numbers soon for everything to, like I said, Overhaul your stock brakes. Thanks guys. See you tomorrow.

 

Front brakes are done. I need to add a few missing parts above. Rears are still locking up way too easily. I'll get the rear brakes done this weekend. I'll start tearing everything down Friday night. Then start putting it back together Saturday morning.

@red rock I received the springs. I didn't know you were sending both. I wish I could give you feedback. Thanks though. Once I redo the rear brakes, I'll posy my results. Then I'll start testing with the springs, 19lb first.

Until then.

 

 

Doing the rears today. Need a drum puller for the driver side.

Fronts feel great. Might need to crack the bleeders one more time after I complete the rears. Then spring tuning.

Need to pick me up the lug nut kit for my impact.

 

Everything off and going on fine. Probably finish up tomorrow morning.

 

Did any of the tutorials you read cover adjustment of the brakes?

 

Very simple. I watched this video and read the above articles that were recommended to me.

New adjusters will be screwed in all the way. So...

What I did was start with 1 full revolution before checking if the shoes were rubbing. Then 1/2 rotations after that until snug. Once you feel some tension, pull the ebrake a few times to re-align the shoes. Check and readjust until just snug.

Now start on the other side doing the same thing. Adjust, check for rubbing of the shoes, pull ebrake, check rubbing again and re-adjust if you need to. I adjusted mine a bit loose, since this is my first time, I felt it better to get a full rotation out of the wheel when trying to spin it after adjustment while the shoes rubbed the drums.

I'll be putting in the upgraded spring this weekend, bleed and retest the brakes. They feel MUCH better than before, and the rears don't lock up as easily. The pedal still feels mushy, but I hear that is common.

How To Replace Drum Brake Shoes (Full) - EricTheCarGuy

 

I know how to do them, I was just wondering if you knew how. I had drums on my car for 3 years and the way I drove it I had to adjust them at least yearly. If I did an Auto-X or a track day I'd adjust them before I went, then re-adjust them afterwards.

 

OH LOL. Yeah, thanks for checking up though. I should be tearing into them soon again for the stronger spring, an e-brake cable change, as well as the final front to rear brake line for the rear brakes. Almost completed.

I'll re-adjust them as loose/tight as I did the first time, to see how the spring changes the feel from what I am now referring to as proper brake pedal tension. Then more adjusting after, if need be. I'm also in the middle of a move too, so, I can't get heavy on tearing her down and going for test rides.

Edit: Would it be a better option to upgrade/swap the proportioning valve spring rather than adjusting the rears tighter to the drum. As I would assume you don't want them to grab so tight daily driving.

 

if you need any help with brakes im local and can help ya

 

I only noticed a little bit better bite on the rear with the 19lb. I'm not sure how drums will react, i guess for a true test, set them up the way you had them and then try the different spring. Won't they self adjust to the drum anyway?

 

if you are using drums I would advice against using a stronger spring unexpected rear wheel lock up is not so fun and also easy to do with drums
I toyed around my 89 iroc and needed to do a panic stop "deer" car just went sideways into the other lane I then replaced with the stock spring
now on my 91 that has upgraded 12 inch rear disc I have used a stronger spring and it worked great

mushy pedal is always air normaly in the rear lines or in the master cly