turd_gen

I searched for this, but I couldn't find anything.

What would be the cheapest front brake upgrade that would fit under 16" mesh wheels? I used to be a tool maker, so I can machine my own spindles, hubs and mounting brackets. Basically I'm looking for the cheapest and most easily available calipers, rotors and pads.

I was considering 1LE, C4 HD or LS1 brakes, but I'm open to other options as well. The car will be 95% street used, 5% track days. Once I get my suspension and brakes sorted, I'm going to start adding power. My goal will be around 350hp at the wheels, so I'd like some brakes that go along with that power nicely.

Thanks for the help guys!

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

Cheapest will be finding a 4th gen car that is being parted out at a local junkyard and grabbing the front brakes from it.

turd_gen

Don't see many LS1 4th gens being parted out around me, but I'll keep my eyes peeled.

novaderrik

the LS1 brakes are the way to go... if you toast a rotor or caliper and need to get back on the road in a hurry when no parts stores are open, just find a 2000 and newer Monte Carlo or Impala and grab the rotors or calipers to get you back on the road... the Impala/Monte rotors are the exact same part as the LS1 F body, but the calipers are cast iron and bolt right in place of the F body calipers..

antoine

I know on the buick grand national they are using 1998 up s10 pickup twin piston calipers and rotors

novaderrik

you can get the LS1 F body stuff cheaper than the S10 stuff and have better brakes with less unsprung weight due to the aluminum calipers. the GN guys only love that upgrade because the whole spindle is a direct bolt on to a G body so there is no real work involved.

turd_gen

Yeah, I'm going to go the LS1 route.

I scored some parts yesterday for the swap. I got spindles with newish rotors I can use for the hubs and an aluminum driveshaft for $100. And I picked up a pair of LS1 calipers from eBay for $55 shipped.

Now I just need LS1 pads and rotors. I'll buy them new, mostly because I'd like some fancy looking drilled and slotted rotors.

Looks like I should be able to get this swap done for around $300! Now I just need to do something about my rear drums!

jaybdaboat

Where did you find that deal? Looking for a brake upgrade.

turd_gen

Was just lucky enough to find a guy parting out several third gens. He let me cut the front spindles out since barely anyone wants them.

From another guy I also just picked up a new 9-bolt rear end with disc brakes and 3.27 gears for $80. Only has 80,000km on it and looks brand new inside!

Same guy said he'd sell his complete TPI 350 for $200, which I'll probably use for a 383 build!

SlickTrackGod

A pair of these calipers:
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...o=120-11872-RD

A pair of Stillen sport rotors 10.5" x 1" factory replacement upgrades:
https://www.stillen.com/stillen-1985...et-camaro.html

Stillen metal Matrix pads - NOT A BETTER BRAKE PAD ANYWHERE FROM STREET/TRACK USE:
https://www.stillen.com/brakes/brake...et-camaro.html

Lightweight, will accept autoX race heat no problems, great for street use also still.

skinny z

Things that you find when you're not looking for them.
Thanks for that Dean.

turd_gen

I wonder how that would compare to an LS1 setup. The biggest difference between those and the LS1 brakes is the size of the pads. LS1 pads have almost twice the surface area.

My LS1 swap will end up being cheaper than that once I've hot it all together.

SlickTrackGod

Pad size is not as important as rotor size for heat disappation. Smaller surface area pads just wear quicker but use the same exact force in stopping power. Force is piston size, not pad size. A larger pad just mean the force is distributed over a larger area making it last longer

example. 500lbs line pressure into 4sq inches of piston - 2000 lbs force.

now that force on 8 sq inches of pad means 2000 / 8 = 250lbs per sq inch of pad force

Then take the same 2000 lbs force onto a smaller 5sq inch pad = 400lbs per sq inch.

On the same rotor, the brakes will pretty closely run the same heat because the rotor bleeds the heat, not the pad.

This setup is lighter then the LS1 oem setups in unsprung weight.

Banananutz

I was always of the understanding that cross-drilled rotors were prone to cracking, and to stay away from them?

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

Never had a problem with cross drilled rotors and i run the ebay brake motive cheapies. Heard of some cracks in the hardcore auto x world but thats it.

turd_gen

Yeah, I've heard stories of drilled and drilled/slotted rotors cracking, but I've never seen it happen.

Otherwise they offer no real benefit to braking other than better heat dissipation in extreme situations. For a daily driver they're no better than cheapo blanks.

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

I just like em for the sex appeal behind a beautiful wheel...lol

turd_gen

Yeah no doubt, if I was running wheels that showed off my brakes more, I'd definitely go for drilled and slotted rotors.

ThirdGenKen

Will the 4th Gen calipers pads and rotors bolt right on a third gen?

turd_gen

LT1 brakes don't and the upgrade is minimal.

LS1 brakes require modified spindles, a bracket machined and the third gen rotor has to be turned down to fit underneath the LS1 rotor. Third gens have rotor that also act as the hub and 4th gens have separate hubs and rotors.

skinny z

Check this out. This website might answer any of your questions. It's the resource I used to upgrade to LS brakes.


http://lukeskaff.com/projects/car/th...brake-upgrade/

ThirdGenKen

What does it take to do the LT1 upgrade?

novaderrik

the 93-97 "LT1" cars had an 11" rotor and cast iron single piston calipers... not really much of an upgrade over the 10.5" stock third gen stuff except for the slightly thicker rotor.

the 98-02 "LS1" cars had a 12" rotor with a multi piston aluminum caliper.

formula00ra

iTrader: (1)

I purchased a Powerstop kit from rock auto for 167.00 and couldn't be happier with it. Powder coated rotors. They have different levels of performance you can select.