I got a 45x4 head unitand I got some 300watt max 4x6s and 220watt max 6x9s....will this make my system sound like crap?

P.S the 4x6s are on ebay they are called super blues for 14.99 I thought Id get them because my 4x6s are stock.... tell me if they are any good


thanx

 

for fifteen bucks im gonna have to go with no

 

will they be better than my stock 4x6s?? thats my question

 

They will probably be better for a little while, then they will most likely be worse. I would save your money and get some infinitys or alpines. Just my .02.

Brian

 

didnt get the super blues...I got some pioneer 4x6s with a 100watt max...Ill prbably never blow them

 

i guess it's kinda too late, but its best if you look at the rms wattage over the max wattage. if you match those numbers up from your amp (cd reciever in this case) to your speakers, you'll get alot clearer sound than if you try to match up the max numbers.

i guess that would be my 2 cents

 

4" x 6" 2-Way Speaker 100 Watts Max. Power (20 Watts Nominal).

 

those actually probably match up to your head unit pretty well. i'm guessing the rms on that cd player is something like 16-18, right?

 

one cannot predict how well a speaker combo will sound based on it's wattage rating. You can have a set of speakers rated for 50 watts that sound a ton better then a set rated for 300 watts.

Wattage ratings are not even a good estimate of how loud it can play (with speakers and subs). I honestly don't even look at wattage ratings when I buy speakers anymore, as it is all a big marketing ploy!

mike

 

you are right about the fact that wattage is not a completely good factor on predict a combo. on the other hand, you are wrong about it not having any bearing. it is espically important if you are on a budget.

besides, like i said, the rms number is the important number anyways not max wattage.

 

what bearing does it have then ?



RMS, Max, I claim either rating has no real world relavance on speakers.

 

i could go into the details of whats important w/ the numbers stated for speakers, amps, etc. but i don't really have the time for it and i dont think anyone wants to read an essay on the subject. if you really want all the info go find a good book or look it up on a site.

you have the right to not use wattage numbers when you purchase your equipment, but that does not mean that the info is not important and/or usable. we are all entitled to our own opinions and in this case, it is only a preference, not a fact.

i'm not an expert on the subject so i'm not gonna by presenting info that may not be completely true. go find an expert and they'll tell you why you should pay attention to the stuff listed on the boxes. it is not there to just take up space.

 

I can raise the because I'm lucky enough to deal with this stuff. Sure, parameters are there for a reason. But unless something is from a BIG company, that sometimes gets their products DUMAXed, parameters are just numbers. Ratings, sure, to some degree. Look at the Boss amps...rated at 1400 watts, and you can get one for $119.95 at a fleamarket...get real. Do they have those little numbers on their products, sure...are they real? I don't think so...
So I agree with DJ, some numbers are worth looking at, but most ratings are just numbers.

When looking at subs, look at wattage for mechanical limits...then you will have real numbers.

If you always go off specs, , you will be mis-lead.

 

a good way to go is to slightly underpower your subs according to there specs. will sound good and have very long life. as for the 4x6 rated at 300 watts. i havent laughed so hard in my life.

 

I agree with DJSexay. For the most part, what you read on the box as far as wattage requirements is a huge marketing ploy. Manufacturers will try to print the biggest numbers they can on the box because when people see bigger numbers they think the product is better. While in reality, the numbers you need to pay attention to are the RMS handling (like tamu130 said), the Frequency Ratings, and the Sensitivity Level. The wattage ratings are only there to help you match power levels with your source (deck or amp). If anything, the numbers that would affect actual sound output of the speaker would be the Frequency Ratings and the Sensitivity Levels.

 

I am curious, how DO you know if the speaker is good or not without listening to it then? What do you go by? Price?

 

Word of mouth and listening to them yourself is really the only way to know....word of mouth can be VERY iffy if its not coming from good sources.

As far as those people who think watt ratings are always accurate....try sending the rated power handling of ANY audiobahn sub and see if it likes it....same goes for any 'flea-market' brands. If your buying from JL, Kicker, PG, DD, ID, Adire, Diamond, Memphis, RF etc etc then you will be getting a good sub.

NOTE: Good sub does not mean a sub that you will like hands down, thats entirely preference.