Need a good idea where to start for cd player speakers/sub
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From: East Texas
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Need a good idea where to start for cd player speakers/sub
I want nice clear sound, I got over the whole rumble of bass (blazer with 3 10's! What? I can't hear ya?) and plus all the ones in camaros I have heard rattle like a rock in can.
Here is my setup, 85 camaro z28......Need a good cd player (something that isn't flashy but quaility....thinking one of those flat faced cd players that look like the face is gone) hm...an 8 inch woofer.....some kick panels (i don't know if I can get them to match my interior on an 85) basically I want an overhaul on the sound system, with good components....and maybe an XM radio later on.....
I want some bass, just not enough to draw unwanted attention to me... q logic kick panels are nice...but do they even make them? My research has shown no, but I am a hillbilly ogre interent user.
Anyhow any tips would be grrrrreat
Here is my setup, 85 camaro z28......Need a good cd player (something that isn't flashy but quaility....thinking one of those flat faced cd players that look like the face is gone) hm...an 8 inch woofer.....some kick panels (i don't know if I can get them to match my interior on an 85) basically I want an overhaul on the sound system, with good components....and maybe an XM radio later on.....
I want some bass, just not enough to draw unwanted attention to me... q logic kick panels are nice...but do they even make them? My research has shown no, but I am a hillbilly ogre interent user.
Anyhow any tips would be grrrrreat
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From: El Paso, TX
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: V8 305
stay away from audiobahn, look into the adire shiva's or some alpine type r's. for a head head unit, you might want to check out that alpine unit with the built in XM tuner already in it. For some components, im going to be getting the RE series 6.5 that are supposed to be awesome, and they are only $150, cant beat that. I'm going to be fiberglassing my own kicks, it doesnt look that hard, just takes a while to get them great looking, but im going to carpet them.
look at this topic, it has alot of great places to buy https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=249060
look at this topic, it has alot of great places to buy https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=249060
Last edited by nibleT; Aug 15, 2004 at 04:24 PM.
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From: Atlanta, Ga,USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R-4 when it works
Please do not mention AudioBahn and Boss together in a sentence with "good sound"
For nice clear SQ in stock locations I would:
JBL Power series 4x6 plates
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...er=POS&cat=MEL
JBL GTO Series 6x9's
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...er=GTS&cat=MEL
2 Resonant Engineering RE 8's in a .5 cubic foot sealed box
www.reaudio.com
Without stock locations I would....
FRONT:
JL Audio XR series components
mounting the woofer in the door on a fiberglass/mdf ring angled upward about 10 degrees, with the tweeter mounted were the 4x6's go
REAR:
JL Audio VR/TR components mounted on a plate in the sail panel
2 Resonant Engineering RE 8's in a .5 cubic foot box.
Amplification would come from a JBL GTO 755.6
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO7556
Headunit would be an Alpine cda- 9831 or better depending on how much you wanted to spend.
For nice clear SQ in stock locations I would:
JBL Power series 4x6 plates
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...er=POS&cat=MEL
JBL GTO Series 6x9's
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...er=GTS&cat=MEL
2 Resonant Engineering RE 8's in a .5 cubic foot sealed box
www.reaudio.com
Without stock locations I would....
FRONT:
JL Audio XR series components
mounting the woofer in the door on a fiberglass/mdf ring angled upward about 10 degrees, with the tweeter mounted were the 4x6's go
REAR:
JL Audio VR/TR components mounted on a plate in the sail panel
2 Resonant Engineering RE 8's in a .5 cubic foot box.
Amplification would come from a JBL GTO 755.6
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO7556
Headunit would be an Alpine cda- 9831 or better depending on how much you wanted to spend.
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sound....
if anyone is running JL speakers i feel your pain.... ignorance is bliss. JL is nothing but a name and i guess if u hav lots and lots of money to throw out the window thats ok. But for value i will repeat audiobahn is the ****.... and for everyone knocking audiobahn why dont you all just go look at the specs. They do not lie. Audiobahn subs hav better frequency responses and better RMS ratings than any other speakers made. I just installed a 4000 watt powerdrive amp and 4 audiobahn flame compressions in my friends firebird and it is almost impossible to sit in the car because of the ridiculous amounts of bass it deploys. Boss is affordable with low THD total harmonic distortion is everything when buying clean sound. .1 and below ratings are inaudible and almost all boss amps are .01
For your highs to mids i would go with a boss amplifier pushing infinity kappa or reference speakers all around then let your subs take care of the rest.
SO ALL YOU JL FANS GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARDS AND READ A CRUTCHFIELD
For your highs to mids i would go with a boss amplifier pushing infinity kappa or reference speakers all around then let your subs take care of the rest.
SO ALL YOU JL FANS GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARDS AND READ A CRUTCHFIELD
Last edited by RaMaiRGoD69; Aug 16, 2004 at 12:23 AM.
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From: Atlanta, Ga,USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R-4 when it works
Yeah, Ignorance IS bliss... so how do you like your blissful state?
Look man, Get off of it. I didn't mean to step on your d|ck , we are talking about SOUND REPRODUCTION not CRAZY LOUD. If you would have read the intial post you would have known that.
If you want crazy loud then Audiobahn is the ticket. But they sound sloppy...period. Just accept it and move on. It is really not that hard to understand that your company of choice is all about the bling.
Boss is akin to Jenson and other "fine quality" audio equipment.
If that is what you like then far be it from me to tell you otherwise, but this thread was about SQ.
I gave MY recommendations for 2 types of installs that will sound great and be a little loud, you wanted to flame and give a recommendation of something that will sound as clear as mud.
Have you even heard a good SQ system? Where the music is so detailed that you have to stop and replay the track because you had never heard "that" before? Doesn't sound like it.
Look man, Get off of it. I didn't mean to step on your d|ck , we are talking about SOUND REPRODUCTION not CRAZY LOUD. If you would have read the intial post you would have known that.
If you want crazy loud then Audiobahn is the ticket. But they sound sloppy...period. Just accept it and move on. It is really not that hard to understand that your company of choice is all about the bling.
Boss is akin to Jenson and other "fine quality" audio equipment.
If that is what you like then far be it from me to tell you otherwise, but this thread was about SQ.
I gave MY recommendations for 2 types of installs that will sound great and be a little loud, you wanted to flame and give a recommendation of something that will sound as clear as mud.
Have you even heard a good SQ system? Where the music is so detailed that you have to stop and replay the track because you had never heard "that" before? Doesn't sound like it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: sound....
Originally posted by RaMaiRGoD69
SO ALL YOU JL FANS GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARDS AND READ A CRUTCHFIELD
SO ALL YOU JL FANS GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARDS AND READ A CRUTCHFIELD
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Ga,USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R-4 when it works
You said: I have already said:
It is not up to me to convince you.
If you would actually go to a REAL mobile electronics/stereo shop then you would hear the difference.
Go to a REAL shop, not Circuit City or best buy. Tell the guy what vehicle you have and tell him you have the cash to drop for an SQ setup. He will NOT point you toward Audiobahn or Boss. They are the basement brands that children go for because of the bling factor or the low price.
u still havent gave me a reason to be against boss other than the name.......... and sound Qs are very clean subs.
If that is what you like then far be it from me to tell you otherwise, but this thread was about SQ.
If you would actually go to a REAL mobile electronics/stereo shop then you would hear the difference.
Go to a REAL shop, not Circuit City or best buy. Tell the guy what vehicle you have and tell him you have the cash to drop for an SQ setup. He will NOT point you toward Audiobahn or Boss. They are the basement brands that children go for because of the bling factor or the low price.
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From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
Wow....wasn't Boss mentioned in the 'worst brands' thread?
The poster mentioned the soud-a-like names: Boss-Bose
I installed a new MP3 player for a guy, it was a Boss $129 shipped!
It's seemed attractive for the price and it DID play .mp3s, but any $30 throw away DVD player can play .mp3s! I wasn't very much impressed with it, but if you're on a very tight budget, it might get you by.
BTW, please explain where these 4 kilowatts of output power came from.
Hey, be a bargain hunter all you want, but don't ever make a negative reference to JL Audio again. You may be 3/4 way tone deaf by now with your 4KWs, I can still hear just fine...and I prefer SQ over SPL!
I'll put 500 watts of JL up against 4,000 watts of crap any day.
Is 5 volts really necessary? I've used lots of 3-4 volt HU's and never had much trouble with it. I don't see anything wrong with 5 volts though, whatever makes you happy!
The poster mentioned the soud-a-like names: Boss-Bose
I installed a new MP3 player for a guy, it was a Boss $129 shipped!
It's seemed attractive for the price and it DID play .mp3s, but any $30 throw away DVD player can play .mp3s! I wasn't very much impressed with it, but if you're on a very tight budget, it might get you by.
BTW, please explain where these 4 kilowatts of output power came from.
Hey, be a bargain hunter all you want, but don't ever make a negative reference to JL Audio again. You may be 3/4 way tone deaf by now with your 4KWs, I can still hear just fine...and I prefer SQ over SPL!
I'll put 500 watts of JL up against 4,000 watts of crap any day.
Is 5 volts really necessary? I've used lots of 3-4 volt HU's and never had much trouble with it. I don't see anything wrong with 5 volts though, whatever makes you happy!
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I didn't read the whole thread because the few things that I did choose to read just caused me to roll my eyes.
Anyway... on to answering your questions.
So far what I've found with 8" subs is that you really need a ported enclosure to get any kind of lower octave output from them. I built a ported box for a pair of 8" Tangband subs in my girlfriend's camry, and not only does it go very deep, but it hits pretty hard for a pair of 8s with 200 total watts. BUT... in a sealed box, most 8s don't have the ability to go very deep. The problem is, by the time I got done with the box, and the slot port, the overall dimensions weren't really any smaller than if I just built a box for a pair of sealed 10s. However, the ported 8s play deeper than almost any sealed 10s you can find.
If you want a good way to fill in the lower end without too much complication, a single 10" sub will probably work perfectly for you. Just because it's a bigger sub doesn't mean it has to be louder or overpowering. A properly set up system should never have overpowering bass no matter how many subs you have.
The bass shouldn't make anything in the camaro rattle too much. I've done installs in a lot of thirdgens, and I've never had any problems. At most, a little dynamat on the interior plastic where they contact each other should take care of rattles.
Q-logic makes kick panels for thirdgens. I've never listened to them, but most people think that with a little extra dynamat applied to the backside, they can work pretty well. I built my own kick panels, and for the most part I'm happy with the results. I'll never put speakers in my dash again, that's for sure. The imaging and soundstage is 100% better with kick panels.
I'd stay the hell away from Boss and Audiobahn. With a little bit of research you can find out what brands don't suck, and where to get good deals on them. Just because a Boss amp says 800 watts and a Phoenix Gold or JBL amp says 200 watts, doesn't mean that the boss is better OR louder.
A large pre-out voltage on your headunit is nice as long as you don't pay extra for it. In 99.9% of all installs, it's completely worthless. Anything with a 2 volt output or higher will be fine. All you want to do is stay away from the ultra cheap crap like Boss & Jensen, because regardless of their claims, most of their decks only put out .5 to 1.5 volts, which isn't a high enough input voltage for some amplifiers.
As for JL speakers... some people can say what they want, but JL makes good quality stuff. Is it the best that money can buy? Perhaps not. Is it the best bang for the buck? Perhaps not. Is it worth the money? Certainly. They make some great sounding subs and components. I'd trade 50 Audiobahn subs for a JL keychain.
Anyway... on to answering your questions.
So far what I've found with 8" subs is that you really need a ported enclosure to get any kind of lower octave output from them. I built a ported box for a pair of 8" Tangband subs in my girlfriend's camry, and not only does it go very deep, but it hits pretty hard for a pair of 8s with 200 total watts. BUT... in a sealed box, most 8s don't have the ability to go very deep. The problem is, by the time I got done with the box, and the slot port, the overall dimensions weren't really any smaller than if I just built a box for a pair of sealed 10s. However, the ported 8s play deeper than almost any sealed 10s you can find.
If you want a good way to fill in the lower end without too much complication, a single 10" sub will probably work perfectly for you. Just because it's a bigger sub doesn't mean it has to be louder or overpowering. A properly set up system should never have overpowering bass no matter how many subs you have.
The bass shouldn't make anything in the camaro rattle too much. I've done installs in a lot of thirdgens, and I've never had any problems. At most, a little dynamat on the interior plastic where they contact each other should take care of rattles.
Q-logic makes kick panels for thirdgens. I've never listened to them, but most people think that with a little extra dynamat applied to the backside, they can work pretty well. I built my own kick panels, and for the most part I'm happy with the results. I'll never put speakers in my dash again, that's for sure. The imaging and soundstage is 100% better with kick panels.
I'd stay the hell away from Boss and Audiobahn. With a little bit of research you can find out what brands don't suck, and where to get good deals on them. Just because a Boss amp says 800 watts and a Phoenix Gold or JBL amp says 200 watts, doesn't mean that the boss is better OR louder.

A large pre-out voltage on your headunit is nice as long as you don't pay extra for it. In 99.9% of all installs, it's completely worthless. Anything with a 2 volt output or higher will be fine. All you want to do is stay away from the ultra cheap crap like Boss & Jensen, because regardless of their claims, most of their decks only put out .5 to 1.5 volts, which isn't a high enough input voltage for some amplifiers.
As for JL speakers... some people can say what they want, but JL makes good quality stuff. Is it the best that money can buy? Perhaps not. Is it the best bang for the buck? Perhaps not. Is it worth the money? Certainly. They make some great sounding subs and components. I'd trade 50 Audiobahn subs for a JL keychain.
Last edited by Jim85IROC; Aug 17, 2004 at 09:46 AM.
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Re: sound...
Originally posted by RaMaiRGoD69
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........

I went through your little cheap-crap-is-best phase back when I first got into this as a teenager. You'll grow out of it eventually too.
Last edited by Jim85IROC; Aug 18, 2004 at 07:13 AM.
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Re: sound...
Originally posted by RaMaiRGoD69
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........
Need a good cd player (something that isn't flashy but quaility....
Supreme Member
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From: Milan, MI
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: A4
Re: sound...
Originally posted by RaMaiRGoD69
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........
thats a pretty bold statement coming from someone running kicker amps and oz subs...........
as for head units, I like alpine as well, but am currently running a pioneer.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Re: Re: sound...
Originally posted by Jgolden314
I would never question Jim85Iroc.............ever. He knows his stuff.
I would never question Jim85Iroc.............ever. He knows his stuff.
Member
Joined: May 2001
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From: Atlanta, Ga,USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R-4 when it works
would never question Jim85Iroc.............ever. He knows his stuff.
I have been lurking here for a long time and Jim85Iroc gives top notch sugestions and answers. He has a wealth of knowledge that I, for one, am glad to be able to glean a little bit from.
I do believe though, that if making a purchase, it is wise to research the information given by anyone.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Arizona
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 liter 350
pioneer cd players seem to work really well...i have a new 6600 with dolphins and all the expensive crap that doesnt help any, and a cheap used 24f that plays things just as well but doesnt have spinny ***** for controlling station/volume. Both play great and put decent power out to the 4x6 and 6x9's...which I am also impressed with pioneers....for $6 a speaker I got some awesome sounding CLEAR 4x6 and 6x9's for both my cars
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
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Jim85Iroc and I don't always post similar opinions, if you agree with what is already posted why post. But I would always take what he has to say hard into consideration. He is a vary well informed intelligent person that has a good ear and has been at this a long time.
Back to the original post. In a head unit it's hard to beat a middle of the road Pioneer in the bang of the buck category. There are some better out there but a middle of the road Pioneer is great dollar for dollar.
For SQ I would go for a middle to upper end Pioneer that offered the options I was looking for. A set of components up front, the brand and model is up to you. It really is best to audition the components with some of the music you like, listen to offten, and know. Q-lodgic makes kicks but you can make your own cheaper. Don't bother with the rear fill speakers. There's nothing wrong with a 8" sub. Maybe Jim can give use all the goods on those Tanbang (sp?) subs. Then I would get a 4 channel amp (I've been partial to the Clarion APX-400.4, I think i got the model # right). Then run the amp as a three channel. Amp the components off of two and drive the sub off the other pair bridged.
That is my general plain for moderately loud with great SQ on a reasonable budget.
Back to the original post. In a head unit it's hard to beat a middle of the road Pioneer in the bang of the buck category. There are some better out there but a middle of the road Pioneer is great dollar for dollar.
For SQ I would go for a middle to upper end Pioneer that offered the options I was looking for. A set of components up front, the brand and model is up to you. It really is best to audition the components with some of the music you like, listen to offten, and know. Q-lodgic makes kicks but you can make your own cheaper. Don't bother with the rear fill speakers. There's nothing wrong with a 8" sub. Maybe Jim can give use all the goods on those Tanbang (sp?) subs. Then I would get a 4 channel amp (I've been partial to the Clarion APX-400.4, I think i got the model # right). Then run the amp as a three channel. Amp the components off of two and drive the sub off the other pair bridged.
That is my general plain for moderately loud with great SQ on a reasonable budget.
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Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
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Ive got no idea about 8s. But as far as speakers and head units go. Kick panels if you can. If not get some infinity kappa plates or polk momo plates. For a head unit I would suggest clarion pro audio or alpine.
Nate
Nate
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I'm currently running Alpine 4"x6" plates in the dash and they are very clean. Albeit all they add is upper mid and highs. I have some Boston Accoustic RM-6's to replace them with in the front, but the Q-Logic kick panels won't handle the speaker depth or look worth beans if they had the depth for the speaker. What a waste of money.
I am running Boston Accoustic RM-9 6"x9" in the sail panels and they sound nice. While the specs say they will go down to 35hz I have them cut off at 50hz on the Alpine amp. My two 10" Alpine type R's do a nice job for the type of music I listen to and the only rattle in the whole car is the rear wiper on the outside of the car. The inside of the car has so much insulation that when standing outside of the car you don't hear anything but the wiper rattling.
I have a middle of the road Kenwood deck with the rollover / removable face. It has two sets of preamp outputs, just wish I had bought a deck with three so I could adjust the subwoofers depending on the CD I'm playing.
Who makes the Door panel speaker holders? I have electric windows so mounting the 6.5's in the door panel is a no go. I was going to make something out of PVC or Poly Pipe to mount to the door panel or to the factory kick panel if possible......
I am running Boston Accoustic RM-9 6"x9" in the sail panels and they sound nice. While the specs say they will go down to 35hz I have them cut off at 50hz on the Alpine amp. My two 10" Alpine type R's do a nice job for the type of music I listen to and the only rattle in the whole car is the rear wiper on the outside of the car. The inside of the car has so much insulation that when standing outside of the car you don't hear anything but the wiper rattling.
I have a middle of the road Kenwood deck with the rollover / removable face. It has two sets of preamp outputs, just wish I had bought a deck with three so I could adjust the subwoofers depending on the CD I'm playing.
Who makes the Door panel speaker holders? I have electric windows so mounting the 6.5's in the door panel is a no go. I was going to make something out of PVC or Poly Pipe to mount to the door panel or to the factory kick panel if possible......
Last edited by Captain C; Sep 9, 2004 at 02:52 PM.
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