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2nd car battery location

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Old May 5, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #1  
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From: Illinios 4 the time being
Car: 89 firebird XS
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2nd car battery location

Im sorry im just now getting around to it. but someone (i forget who) asked where a 2nd car battery could be located (without taking out the spare tire of course) and im just now getting around to posting this. sorry about that.

i actually put my 2nd car battery in the lock compartment in the rear hatch of my firebird. fits in there rather nicely and doesnt move around whatsoever. here are some pictures:
Attached Thumbnails 2nd car battery location-mvc-027s.jpg  
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Old May 5, 2005 | 12:24 AM
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From: Illinios 4 the time being
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picture #2
Attached Thumbnails 2nd car battery location-mvc-028s.jpg  
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Old May 5, 2005 | 03:39 AM
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You might want to think about putting a sealed gel-cell in there instead of a standard lead/acid battery. The reason is that inside the car, you don't want the battery to vent hydrogen because of potential sparks. You also don't want to smell evaporating sulfuric acid.

Sealed lead/acid batteries are usually labeled for Marine usage and look like a six-pack with a single piece plastic lid.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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Or buy a battery box and vent it externally.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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i would have gone with one of those batteries. but, that compartment is actually very small. that battery barely fits in there. and just to get it in i had to take tha panals off and then obviously put them all back on when i was finished.

you actually cant see it in that picture because i wasnt finished with it. i had just put it in because i moved it from the spare tire compartment to that and put the spare back in. But, all the wires are completely sealed up so theres no potential of any spark, plus theres actually a seal and padding around the battery just as a precossionary to prevent the battery from leaning/tipping in any dirrection.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 01:54 PM
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A yellow top deep cycle does fit in there. I actually put one in the glove box just to check for fitment once, but I quickly found out the weight of it made the cardboard distort. I was 2 lazy to build a custom mount.

Also the wet cells vent toxic/explosive gases that can build up in a car over time. Not to mention the added danger of an acid leak.

If you do buy a battery box you'll need to do some research on it if you're interested in NHRA runs. Last time I looked the Moroso box was the only current Tech certified one for the dragstrip.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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From: Readsboro, VT
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Originally posted by fireturd350
A yellow top deep cycle does fit in there. I actually put one in the glove box just to check for fitment once, but I quickly found out the weight of it made the cardboard distort. I was 2 lazy to build a custom mount.

Also the wet cells vent toxic/explosive gases that can build up in a car over time. Not to mention the added danger of an acid leak.

If you do buy a battery box you'll need to do some research on it if you're interested in NHRA runs. Last time I looked the Moroso box was the only current Tech certified one for the dragstrip.
As far as I know, NHRA requires ALL interior batteries to be mounted in the battery box including dry cell batteries.

Of course, if it's out of sight under the stock panel, they'll never know.

Speaking of drag racing, if you're concerned about traction, I'd suggest mounting the battery on the passenger side instead of the driver side.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:38 PM
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
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That is true Jim, but the NHRA only sees certain sealed containers as up to code.

Here's a little stuff for anyone that hits this thread in the future.

"I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050. "

From HERE

Many people have escaped by using Display Batteries under the hood hook'd up (gutted plastic covers) and a deep cycle hidden inside the interior panels.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #9  
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wow, get that lead-acid battery out of there pronto!

you can get some good, cheap gel batteries at advanced.... I forget the brand, but they put out more power, and are cheaper than that yellowtops...

/wish I got it instead
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Old May 7, 2005 | 08:11 AM
  #10  
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well besides what everyone else has said.. that leadacid battery will eventually corrode the cardboard and then the nice padding that keeps that from tiping wont do anything for you
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