Ok so my GF's uncle owns a "salvage" yard where he gets all kind of Seized vehicles and what not, and they usually have expensive stereo equipment in them. Well he doesnt care for the stuff so he gave a bunch of stuff to me,

here is a picture of:

-2 x 12" Audiobahn 1000W Sub's
product #: ALUM12Q

-1 AudioBahn Amp, 6 channel im not real sure how this works
Product #: A6601X

-1 Pioneer 35W x 4 CD play, SuperTuner 3
Product #: DEH-435

-2 x Kenwood 6x9 speakers, 220W
Product #: KFC-6908



now i have no Idea how im going to hook all this stuff up, i look at the amp and think, WTF??

here is a close up of the sides of the amp



let me know if you guys can help me out, right now im in the process of building the sub box, and i suck at woodwork

thanks
-Dave

 

Well..I did a bit of internet research and it looks like the ALUM12Q's are 3-Ohm DVC subs and the A6601X amp supports the following modes:
75 watts x 6 @ 4 ohms stereo
105 watts x 6 @ 2 ohms stereo
210 watts x 3 @ 4 ohms mono

I've done some light number crunching here and I think the best case scenario is to wire each of the sub's 3-Ohm voice coils in series for a total impedance of 6 Ohms per sub. Then, wire each sub in parallel for a total of 3 Ohms as seen as the amp. This will give a safe 157W bridged with 75W x 4 left over for the 6x9's and whatever else you'd like to power.

Another way (which is not recommended) is to only run one voice coil per sub to the amp. This isn't the greatest idea as both voice coils are supposed to be used and not doing so may end up burning the coils eventually. If you go this route, run the subs in stereo: 157W bridged x 2 @ 3 Ohms and this will leave 75W x 2 for the 6x9's.

I'd run that amp with a 4 Gauge supply line from the battery and something in the range of about 60A for the fuse.

 

this should help you out pretty good i got you diagrams and even marked on your amp pick ware to run the stuff and even got you the corect facts on the subs . i have the same subs but i have a AUDIOBAHN A12005DN
• 400 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms mono
• 750 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms mono
• 1200 watts x 1 @ 1 ohm mono
running the subs at the 1.5ohm load . with the amp you have if you run them bridged your going to put 210 watts to the subs wich will make them work fine please look oner the diadgrams in i got if you would like the manule to the amp you have please email me and i will get you a copy of it wich will come in real use full

Manufacturer Sku: ALUM12Q
Brand: AUDIOBAHN
Model: ALUM12Q
Size: (what's this?) 12 in
Voice Coil: Dual
Nominal Impedence: 6 Ohms
RMS Power Handling: 1000 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 1,400 Watts
Sensitivity: (what's this?) 96.4 dB
Free Air: (what's this?) No
Min Frequency Response: (what's this?) 18 Hz
Max Frequency Response: (what's this?) 500 Hz
BizRate Product ID: 7391226
Speaker Material
Cone Material: Aluminum
Surround Material: Rubber
Basket Material: Cast Flame
Dimensions
Top Mount Depth: 5.62 in
Weight: 7.50 lbs

this one you would use the 12ohm option
Option 1 (parallel) = 3 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono

Option 2 (series) = 12 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono



this one you would use the 6 ohm option
Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 1.5 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1 ohm mono

Option 2 (series/parallel) = 6 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono




if you have ? please pm or email im more than happy to help more

 

I agree with all you have to say except I didn't bring up the 1.5Ohm load setup because I'm not certain how this amp would handle it. I've only ever used Kicker, but if a Kicker amp won't handle a load it politely refuses to operate. Some amps just get really hot...Some amps will burn out.

 

that is real true if the amps not rated to 1ohm you shouldnt try it at all it could work fine then agin the amp could just burn up .i seen a few cases ware the amp burnt out and sent the charge back threw the head unit and toasted it out also . i for got to say that if you bridge the amp you can use chanel 5/6 to run the 6x9s or just leave it with no speakers and just run them off the head unit wick will work just fine and keep more drain off the amp . im sure PhLaXuS will agree with that also but am in no way saying for sure . pluse most head units come with 2 sets of rca jacks out and not 3 unless that is what you are going after i bought my head unit bases on what i needed i have a alpine with 4 sets of 5v front mid rear and sub . and i to wouldnt run less than 4ga power wire and ground wire to the amp . if your trying to stay on the less money side walmart sells a 4ga amp kit that comes with every thing needed and it even gives you 2 sets of rca cables for under 25 bucks only thing i would do with that kit is buy a 60 amp fuse and not use the 100 amp it comes with . i alwas try and stay atleast 10 amps under what the amp is in my power wire that way it blows befor the amp fuses do .

 

Ok so you all seem to know a lot more about this than me, electrical is not my strong suit. (Just ask My Electrical Engineering Teacher, D- , I suck at it), I had to go look upwhat a Ohm was, i had forgotten

So basiclly, im not trying to win any kind of Awards with my sound system, i just want to have a good loud sound, to over power the exhuast (Sometimes) and get to the point where i dont have to smack the side of the tape player/Radio every 5 minutes to get it to work

so which is the best/easiest way to hook this up to get the most reliable performance out of this.

should i run all my speakers off my amp?

also is this stuff any good

 

Yep...agreed on the possibility of running the 6x9's off the head. Normally, this wouldn't work, but it should balance out pretty well with the amp/sub combo. Also (the direction I think djdew is going), if you only run 4 of the six channels for the subs, this provides a more than adequate heat sink for the low-impedance sub setup. The only drawback is that the amp would put out a cleaner signal to the 6x9's than the head, but I'm really a stickler for that. It wouldn't bother a lot of people.

At this point, you're next choice is really preference, I think. Do you want less bass; at the same time obtaining it safely from the amp or so you want more bass with the possibility of burning it out? Even though it's not an excersize in prudence, I'd personally go for the louder but less safe bass.

But I'm the same with the car -- I'd risk blowing the engine at the hope of more power.

For the install, you'd need:
about 20 feet of red 4 gauge wire
about 8 feet of black 4 gauge for grounds near the battery & back @ the amp
60A fuse + fuseholder
terminators to connect the 4 gauge to the battery & chassis
anywhere from 15 to 50 ft of speaker wire for hookups; preferably 12-14 gauge for the power you're running to prevent resistive losses
anywhere from 1 to 3 sets of RCAs for interconnects between the head & amp
RCA Y adapters, if required
about 20 feet of 16-18 gauge wire for the remote line

Did I miss anything? I've had a headache all day. In any case, an amp install kit (such as the aforementioned Wal-Mart type) will have most of this stuff in it.

As far as the question of: Is this stuff any good?...I think it's great for most people's needs -- it's just the sub/amp combo is a bit mismatched from an impedance standpoint. That's what's making this more complex. Most audio manufacturers use an imedance that is divisible by 2. Some people use 3. It can sometimes be weird to mix the two.

 

ok i think i want to wire the 6x9's to the amp, it will just be easier

also, do i need to give the amp power from the alternator or the head unit?

also id rather not burn up the amp, i dont need it that loud

 

If you're running all the audio from the amp, then you'll not connect the eight speaker wires coming out of the head. Just leave them floating, but tape them off very well. The amp will be wired into the battery.

 

i think PhLaXuS would agree with this way id run the each sub at 3 ohms on chaneles 1 - 4 bridged then the 6x9s on chanels 5-6 and it should be ok and sound fine . i like 2 and 4 ohm subs the most lot easyer to wire but your deal on your set up cant be beat in price .so with every one helping you out here should be good to go with this way ...... on the head unit thare should be a wire labeled remote or it will say amp turn on thats the wire you need so the amp turns on and off with the car . and nothing from the amp gets hooked to the alt only wire that needs ran to the batt to the amp is the 4ga power wire . for the ground you need to find a bolt/nut in the hatch area thats clean of paint/dirt/grease and that should give you a good ground . if you have more ? fire away