short problem HELP!!!
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: So Cal
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LsX
Transmission: MN12 6speed
Axle/Gears: 3:42
short problem HELP!!!
well i payed like 70 bucks to get my car checked out cuz i had short that killed my battery in few days.. well thing is that since then it got worse..it was my amp that stayed on. meaning the remote keeps it on right???the current is always on even with my key off. it shows the power light on the amp which i just noticed is always on.. so taht was the problem.. so my question is what color wire does the remote go onto ... i know the remote wire is usually blue and runs form the amp to a wire in back of teh radio.. but it suppose to be attached to a specific one??.. well this is killing me using regular speakers..when i have my woofers in the back
on the back of the deck it should be a blue wire with a white stripe i belive...i had a problem like this a while back in my suburban, it turned out to be like 1 strand from the power was touching a peice of the remote wire and giving it a constant 12v.....just make sure the remote is only going into the amp and northigns touching the actual wire, then move to the back of ur deck, but it shouldnt be a behind ur deck problem if it was workign normal before...hope this helps
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 142
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From: West Virginia
Car: '91 Z-28 Hardtop
Engine: 5.7L TPI L98
Transmission: 700R4
Or you could get a fuse tap and just wire your remote on wire to the switched accessory fuse in your fuse panel.
Depending on what headunit you have your remote wire could be labeled as Power Antenna
Depending on what headunit you have your remote wire could be labeled as Power Antenna
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
or you could just tap into the ACC wire... but most good decks have both the power antenna AND the remote wire...
whip out your voltmeter and let us know what you find
whip out your voltmeter and let us know what you find
Thread Starter
On Probation
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,042
Likes: 2
From: So Cal
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LsX
Transmission: MN12 6speed
Axle/Gears: 3:42
i tapped the remote to the red wire in back of the stereo where current is around when i just turn the key on.. well i still have that short my battery still dies..
Last edited by TPI TERR; Sep 3, 2006 at 12:22 AM.
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: West Virginia
Car: '91 Z-28 Hardtop
Engine: 5.7L TPI L98
Transmission: 700R4
check at your amp and make sure you dont have a frayed wire strand from the remote terminal sneaking over and making contact with the posetive power terminal.
Verify with a voltmeter that there is indeed 12V on the remote terminal while the car is off. If there is, remove the wire from the amp, see if the wire has voltage on it, if it does not see if the terminal on the amp still does. There could be an internal failure in your amplifier causing this.
Verify with a voltmeter that there is indeed 12V on the remote terminal while the car is off. If there is, remove the wire from the amp, see if the wire has voltage on it, if it does not see if the terminal on the amp still does. There could be an internal failure in your amplifier causing this.
Thread Starter
On Probation
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,042
Likes: 2
From: So Cal
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LsX
Transmission: MN12 6speed
Axle/Gears: 3:42
ok well the wire from the remote is ok.. i think it was makin contact with something else.. so far so good.. i kinda fixed it... i dissconnected the main current for the amp.. right now the car didnt have a problem.. im goign to see if anything will happen.. next i will check if it will have a problem with the amp having current from the battery .. see if the amp has a problem or somehting..
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Well, if you are ONE-HUNDRED percent sure that the problem goes away when you pull the main power on your amp... then I'm afraid the amp itself is defective... somehow it's drawing power when it should not... something has shorted inside the amp....
if money is a big issue, and the amp seems to operate fine, what you may want to do is buy a relay that can handle like 50amps, and wire that to come on with your ACC signal, (same as the remote lead.) That way when the car is off, you have essentially disconnected the power source from the amp....
that's all I can think of really... but it should solve your problem for very little money...
if money is a big issue, and the amp seems to operate fine, what you may want to do is buy a relay that can handle like 50amps, and wire that to come on with your ACC signal, (same as the remote lead.) That way when the car is off, you have essentially disconnected the power source from the amp....
that's all I can think of really... but it should solve your problem for very little money...
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