joepackersrock

Edit: If you are having trouble seeing the measurments on the plans this might help! Click on them to view and after they have popped up right click and hit "save picture as" then open on your computer and they will appear much larger.

I know a few people have been looking for dimensions for a woofer box that slants towards the front of the car, so I'll post up some plans I made.

I will also be posting this in the sticky thread so that it can be found at a later date.

So now down to the plans themselves, hopefully they show up from the scans I've made but just a word of caution I drew up these plans after I built my box so for the most part they are correct but just double check things as your going. I used 3/4" MDF to construct my box obviously if you use a different thickness the measurements will vary slightly. I used 1 1/2 in drywall screws and pilot holes to build the ENTIRE box initially. After I tweaked it and made sure everything fit right I then dissassembled it and used liquid nails and the screws to reconstruct it. The glue is very important as it will do the majority of the bonding so make sure you lather it on. You can wipe off any extra but the carpeting will cover it up anyway. When I was finished I also sealed the inside with a silicone based caulk (not all of my cuts were perfect). I did not include the dimensions for an interior air space divider but I would recommend that you put one in. When all is said and done each half of the enclosure has a volume of about .75 cubic feet for a total of 1.5 cubic feet for the whole enclosure. This was sufficient for two 12" woofers and it should also work for 10's or 8's.

Edit: For those interested in weight, I weighed my box with a center divider and without the subwoofers installed. It came in at 24kg, which is about 53 lbs.

joepackersrock

Here's a couple pictures of the one I built.

joepackersrock

Couple more pictures.

One thing I forgot the enclosure will fit in the rear well without removing any trim pieces or anything like that, I did however give it about 1/2" on either side just so I could get my fingers in between it. It will take two people to lift it out so that sort of works as an anti theft mechanism but dont count on it too much.

Also the part where the box meets the shelf area, after I finished there was about a 1 inch gap where the two meet. In order to make it fit snug and look really tight I nailed a strip of wood across the front and then carpeted around it so the box is actually about 1 inch shorter than it appears. But what you don't know can't hurt you right?

If you think of any questions or see any problems with my plans just post back and let me know, I'll try to get some pictures up of it out of the car when it stops raining here in wisconsin.

joepackersrock

Update: Built one of these for a buddy of mine with a 92 camaro following the plans I posted above. It went off mostly without a hitch there are some small errors in the above plans but I think the biggest problem I ran into was a board being 3/4 in too long. Everything is mostly overestimated for the board layout so that after there cut you can double check it with the other parts of the box and make more cuts or adjustments as needed. Took me about 10 hours, five on two different days. But that was taking my time due to the heat and sun. Another piece of advice is to save cutting the top until you have the entire box together as it never ends up being square like you want it to. All in all though I was pretty happy with the box both times I built it.

Brewster91

think there would be enough room for 3 12s right there?

The Project

iTrader: (6)

I've seen it done but that's a lot of bass!!!

Two 15's will fit and give the same cone space as three 12's (
and are cheaper).

joepackersrock

you could probably squeeze three 12's in but it'd be a tight fit, and I agree with The Project you would have a lot of bass with three 12's you would be better served getting two quality 12's or 15's. Also the volume of my enclosure (which is about the biggest you can get in the rear well) is just barely within the recommended minimum of .75 cubic feet for each of my woofers. I'm not sure if I'd wanna split that 1.5 cubic feet three different ways. Btw my two 12's do enough to rattle my rear view mirror out of adjustment

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Also, I doubt you would hear any difference between two and three 12's.

What subs were you thinking about?

Brewster91

i have the 3 already. its 2 of the high quality sonys and a rockford p2. it slams hard i know that and i love them all and would really like to use them all together. i have them split up already. the p2 by itself and the sonys together and the p2 has taken the mirror off twice already.

joepackersrock

Well whichever setup you decide on just make sure you measure twice and cut once other wise you might end up making another trip to the lumber yard

jwdomino

iTrader: (12)

heres the one I built for mine:

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

You posted in post #4 that there was a slight error in one of your measurements. Can you label on your sheets where the error is. Im a bit confused. But Im seriously considering building a enclosure just like yours. Its the best that Ive ever seen. Love the way it slants downward. Does it go all the way down into the well of the trunk?

joepackersrock

Ya I know the plans are sort of confusing, one thing that helps is to click on them and when they pop up right click and hit "save picture as" then open it on your computer and it will be much bigger so you can read them better. I made corrections and reposted them in the very first post with the corrections in red so they can be easily spotted. The issue was that board #14 was .75 inches too long which caused it not to fit together correctly. Solution was to shave it down another .75 and make board #9 .75 inches longer to account for it. After that it fits perfectly.

Yes the box does fit snug all the way to the bottom of the well, since I was putting in two 12's I made that a point of emphasis. However I couldnt make the box snug all the way up the side that points towards the front of the car because it would have made it impossible to install it and remove it. My solution was to extend the top about 2 inches by nailing strips of wood across the front and bending the carpet over it to make a fake extension so to speak. You can see this when its out of the car but not when its in the car. Also disregard my horrendous carpeting job on the sides, once its in the car all you can see is the top anyway.

joepackersrock

If anyone is interested in how I mounted the amp I'll put up a picture of that as well. The first is my car where I mounted it in the passanger side wheel well. (Didn't want my hatch glass smashed out) The second pic is of the installation I did on my buddies red RS, it's the exact same box, subs, and amp but he wanted his amp mounted up top. It also looks pretty good just a little more enticing to theives.

Few other things...I know I talk a lot but hopefully it helps somebody out lol. So I used a 4'x8' sheet of MDF I dont think a 4'x4' is enough and with the 4x8 I had some left over to make an amp mounting rack and some speaker baffles too. Another thing to bear in mind when laying these dimensions out on a board is that you need to account for the kerf of the sawblade in between. I built the entire box both times with a jigsaw and a miter saw but having a table saw would make your life a lot easier. But as I said its not absolutely necessary.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

forget about the side carpet job. The top section is sweet. I want to build that type of box but then I remembered that Im going to buy a t-top bag. And with the design of yours, it would cover the latches for the bag. . Ohh well. Ill still build it. i like the way it slopes towards the front of the car. 100 cool points for joepackersrock.

joepackersrock

Thanks, I appreciate the compliments

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

coo info

jsncas

I really want a box like that but i simply don't understand the diagrams. guess i have to make the flat box in the other thread

joepackersrock

Ya I know its kind of tough to see, I tried to show how the stuff fits together (hence the stripes and polka dots in the diagram) but I spent about 2 months measuring and thinking about how to do this and I still had to make revisions to the first one I made. Once you start cutting the pieces out it should become fairly obvious how they all fit together. Just make sure you test fit it before you put carpet and everything else on.

Brewster91

any ideas for adding port dimensions in the center of the box between two 12s?

Royalmaro333

Could you possibly try to make the drawing clearer and show where each piece goes

Royalmaro333

I Also don't understand the degrees like what are they for

joepackersrock

This is what I attempted to do when I put all the stars, stripes, and polka dots on the pieces in the first page. Its really difficult to show, but as your cutting out the pieces and test fitting them it becomes much easier to see how its done.


For those fortunate enough to have a radial arm saw or some other piece of equipment that can make those cuts. The rest of us just have to round to the nearest cut that the miter/table saw can make. All of the wood should fit together tightly enough that a little bit of caulk will make it airtight. Just remember to double check and adjust any pieces as you build.