I have bass coming from my speakers which i don't want. I have 2 JL Audio 4x6 speakers in the front, 2 Infinity 6x9 speakers in the rear, 2 12" Kicker CompVR subwoofers wired to 1ohm output, a JVC Arsenal headunit, capacitor, distribution block, and an 1100 watt Memphis amp which is 1ohm stable. The subs are 400RMS/800PEAK each. All speakers are hooked up to the amp and headunit. My speakers put out quite a lot of bass which is generally bad. They're already faded a little from the sun. I got the system last Christmas and i love it. I had to do a little mod for the rear speakers because the cone rubber would hit the side interior panel so i put layers of plastic washer between the screw and speaker screw holes so it's not touching the side panel.

I'm concerned about my 4 speakers. Bass is coming through all 4 speakers which is unnecessary because of my subwoofers. Is their a way to get rid of the bass without bass blockers, or at least lower the amount of bass that comes out of them? I haven't tried tweeking the amp yet because i don't know that much about Hz and what not. If the speakers are hooked up to the amp shouldn't i be able to change the bass output on them? The headunit has a subwoofer bass output level but not speaker bass output level. If i can just use the amp and tweek the bass output let me know how to do that. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I also have another problem. If i don't turn my head unit off before i turn my car off, my car won't start. It goes like this: I go to school listening to music, i turn the car off without turning my headunit off, i come back 3 hours later, my car won't start. When i do turn it off before i turn the car off, i come back 3 hours later and the car starts right up. Is my sound system drawing power when the car is off? It's not much of a hassle to turn my headunit off every time but i would like to know why this is happening and if at all possible, fit it. Incase i do forget to turn it off and get stranded somewhere. Thats why i always have my trusty jumper cables with me.

 

As far as the Bass, your amps should have a a cut-off that will allow you basically block the lower range stuff from going to your other speakers. Without more information (like how they are hooked up, what amp, etc etc) I can't be more specific.

It sounds like whoever wired up your stereo didn't wire it correctly so it's not turning off when the car turns off. You didn't mention, does it just keep playing when you turn the car off?

 

just like your amp, your deck should also have a highpass filter on it if you're using the preouts, may just need to rummage through the manual to find out how to adjust it.

as for the power thing, there's definitely something hooked up wrong. your deck should be getting a constant 12+ from the fuse box and a switched 12+ from the ignition system. if the switched is hooked up wrong to the deck (tied into a constant instead), that could explain your issue.

 

It's wired like this: Power from the battery (4 gauge wire), run all the way to the trunk to the amp. The wire passes through the distribution block which is connecting the capacitor and the amp to the power. The speaker wires are run from the head unit to the amp. The power wire runs on the left side of the car, the speaker wire on the right. The speaker wire is 1 wire but has 2 head at both end. I bought a 4 gauge car audio set. Everything is grounded. Nothing is playing when the car is off. The car is off, speakers off, subs off, amp off, cap off. If i don't turn the head unit off before i turn the car off, the car wont start after an hour or so. The subs are set to 1ohm. The amp has ***** on the side that can be changed with a flat head screwdriver: Level min/max, LPF 80Hz to 250Hz, Subsonic 20Hz to 50Hz. Theirs also a switch for Filter on/off. The capacitor is 2.0 Firad and it's by Boss Audio Systems. The amp is by Memphis and is 1100 watts. Theirs not much more i can tell you. I'll post pictures of the set up in my trunk if you want.

 

The LPF is what you want to adjust for your bass.

What tells the amps to turn on/off (normally a blue wire)?

You say amp, so you have a single Amp power your subs and front and rear speakers? Is it a 6 channel amp?

 

Frankly i have no idea. I tried going along with what the guy that put my sound system in, who was from graigslist i might add, and i had no idea what he was talking about. I know ohm and a little about Hz but no idea about wiring diagrams, what wire is what, etc etc. Their is a thin green wire that is connected to the headunit which is connected to the capacitor and amp in the trunk.

So i should lower the LPF level and just turn up the bass level on my headunit? The LPF level is a little more than half from what i remember. My headunit has an option to turn up the subwoofer level. It goes from 0 to 8. The higher the number, the harder it hits. When I turn the subwoofer level up from my usual level which is 3 (enough so that i can hear it and others outside can hear it without the sound being obnoxious) the speakers don't put out higher bass, only the subs do. I don't know if that helps but thats something i just remembered. I'm a bit car audio challenged so go easy on me

EDIT: Scratch that!!! My headunit runs my speakers, amp runs my subwoofers. The speaker wire runs from the headunit to the amp but is not powering them. I don't know what the use of the speaker wire is then. It's a pretty thick speaker wire, 1 wire 4 heads. 2 heads in the headunit 2 in the amp runs from the back of the headunit to the side of the amp. Maybe so i have bass control over the speakers? The amp is mono, 1 ohm stable, 1100 watts. The subs are wired to 1 ohm. Either Parallel or Serial i can't remember which.

 

From the sounds of it there is something wrong with the HU. If the speakers are power by the HU and nothing is playing then the HU is turning off. You turning it off vs the keyed power should make no difference.

If the speakers are power by the HU then you need to turn on the head units LPF, if it has it. Since you didn't list the model # we can't help on if it has it or how to adjust it. The amp's LPF won't do you any good as that only affects the Subwoofers. You threw us off because in the initial post you said your speakers are hooked to your amp.

 

I'll give you the item numbers from Crutchfield.

(Headunit): JVC KD-AHD59
Item Number:105KDAH59

GM Antenna Adapter
Item Number: 12040GM10

GM Wire Harness
Item Number:120701858

(Subsoofers): Kicker Comp VR 07CVR124
Item Number: 2067C12VR4
(for both subs)

My headunit doesn't seem to have a speaker bass level changer or an LPF thing.

 

That thick wire running from the HU to the amp is what sends the audio signal from the HU to the Amp. It should have RCA style ends on it. It's actually 2 wires, not one, just they have been combined into one sheath as you basically always need 2.

How the subs are wired doesn't matter much, but if they are running at 1 Ohm then they are wired in parallel (both Coils) to get to 1 ohm.

I checked the manual for your head unit and I think you need to adjust your Subwoofer Frequency Cutoff. It's page 30 of your manual. If it is set to high try setting it to Mid. I am not sure if this cuts it to the other speakers, but it seems like your best bet.

 

Im am currently on High for the Subwoofer Frequency Cutoff. A lot of bass is still coming out of the speakers. For half a year i had it set to Middle till i realized the speakers were putting out a lot of bass. I don't see any difference between low, middle, and high though.

 

See or hear any difference? Assuming you mean hear, without buying more parts, you are basically stuck.

The one thing you could try, but it isn't right, is to turn down the bass in the equalizer and turn up the gain on the amp (or the subwoofer gain on the HU) to get back to the same level you were at before.

 

Well I can't hear the bass coming from the speakers. I can feel the air it pushes if i put my hand over a speaker, and i can see the cones rubber lining moving. It goes up pretty high. I took my dashboard off and messed with my head unit. No difference.

Im having trouble understanding what you mean by turning down the bass in the equalizer and turning the gain on the amp up. My amp is set on High Power from the HU.

The whole statement confused me. A friend told me i could do the same thing, but i didn't understand how to do it so i never did anything about it. And what do you mean by "it isn't right"?

 

Wait.... wha? You can't hear it so you are going by feel? I am not even sure what to say at this point. If you can't hear it, and your hearing hasn't been damaged by loud noises in the past, then it is doing exactly as it should and nothing can be done about it working exactly as it should.

 

Capacitors, 400 micro farat I believe, in the speaker lines to the front speakers will eliminate the bass from those speakers. I have these installed in my dash speakers to eliminate the irritating dash "bump" that occurs with bass in those speakers. I also have a 4 channel amp running the front 4 speakers with seperate LP/HP filters for each pair of channels. The fronts I have set at 100hz low freq cut off with the B pillar speaks set at 80hz. This keeps the low bass in the subs where it belongs. Hope that helps.

 

It does make a thump but not even near a subwoofer. If i turn my subwoofer off and have my speakers going my dashboard, seat, rear view mirror, and side panels vibrate a little.

 

Where could I find one? I looked on ebay but didn't find a 400.

 

I lowered the bass on my speakers a little bit with a few hours of tweeking. Now my only concern is the power drain issue. How should i go about re-wiring my headunit?

 

Im sorry I missed your last post. I got my caps from the stereo shop where I bought my speakers. Any quality stereo shop should also know, and have the correct spec of cap as well.

The wires that run from your HU to your amp are not speaker wires but rather RCA low level audio cables. This is as it should be. I think what going on is this: Your head unit has two power inputs. One is a yellow Batt+ that should be connected to 12v Batt constant. Its a high current(10amp) power supply to the HU's internal amp. The other power wire to the HU is a red ign input that should be connected to an igntion source. The signal from this red wire turns the head unit on. If it is connected to 12v constant, the HU will run with the key off.

You need to be sure that the red wire is connected to 12v switched. I think what may have happened is the installer connected this wire to the ACC Power tap at the fuse panel. This tap is actually 12v constant from the power seat circuit. You need to tap instead into either the IGN tap at the fuse panel which will give you power only with the key in RUN position, or tap into a true ACC power circuit. Your factory radio would have had ACC power to it. You may need to slide the HU out and check the wiring to it. In the OE radio harness, ign switched power is yellow, batt constant power is orange. This can confuse installers.

 

Should i post pictures of my wiring set up? When my dad had the car he had a sound system back in the 90's. 2 MTX subwoofers, 80 watt Denon amp, no idea what HU it was, Pioneer rear speakers, stock front speakers. I used the existing wiring except for the power/ground and speaker cables. If i messed with my head unit wires is their anything i could mess up? Like overpower the headunit or something? Im sure as long as the car isn't on nothing could go wrong right?

 

okay heres the thing, you need a new amp. an 80 watt amp?? really? that thing has got to be older than I am lol also amp should be wired like this : power wire from battery, ground from another part of the car (not on the hump thats dangerous) RCA's coming from your deck to your amp, along with the remote signal wire (either blue or blue with a white tracer) then you gotta figure out wtf your amp even is, mono block, 2,4, or 5 channel etc....if its an 80 watt im willing to bet its mono block...meaning you running all of your speakers and your subs off of it is NOT gonna work. Upgrade the amp, either run a 5 channel or a 4 channel and a 2 channel etc also to clear up your sound run NEW speaker wires and ditch the factory wiring, not the crap speaker wire either go to your local car audio place and get some good speaker wire, run them from the 4 channel amp and move on to tuning.

The RCA's will send audio to the amp, then itll go thru the amp and out to each speaker, why its running back to the head unit is beyond me. And one more thing... get a new set of MATCHED speakers lol im running polks in mine and theyre pretty clean un amp'd alpine type r's, or type s's, infinity's, or some focals, theyre gonna give you the best bass out of the system

pretty much id say start from scratch, get a new HU, amp, speakers, you can probably keep the subs theyre not gonna be the greatest but they should do the job of filling in the lows in the audio

 

On the header topic, I use 100uf 250V caps to protect my Infinity 4x6 plates & get them from http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...47&FTR=027-447

They are some good stuff & I build all my own crossovers.

Kinda big, finding a place for them in the dash was a little challenging.

 

I'll look into that.

I've been searching the web and came up empty handed on how to fix my power loss problem. I have my HU wiring diagram and it looks like everything is wired correctly. I'm not sure on what else to do.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Weatherproof-BAS...item45f63bf932