K so I have a few questions. I have an 82 berlinetta and the first issue is I can't seem to find a radio that fits properly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have the stock setup (minus the radio of course) if that helps at all.

Second issue- so the speaker wires seem to have been removed and I'm not to worried about rewiring but I'm not sure what the rest are. If someone could help me figure it out I would be very grateful. Here's what's in there...

We have a gray/brown joint wire, both are solid color.
Light green/dark green combo.
Pink wire running into a connector, the yellow,black, and gray running into said connector are cut.
2whites
Orange spliced into a green tail
Gray and black are connected into some leds.

Will post pics shortly

 

here are the pictures for what i am talking about.

 

That thick yellow wire is your constant 12v source IIRC. The pink is the switched 12v source. My suggestion would be to buy an aftermarket radio and install kit. It will include the brakets to install and the stereo should come with a wire harness. All you need to hook it up is that pink, yellow, and a ground wire as well as the wires running to the speakers. It looks the the PO had an aftermarket stero in there and just cut the stock connector to wire it up. That oragne/green wire might also be some sort of power wire. I suggest going to radioshack or somewere and getting a cheap multimeter.

 

Yeah someone told me about those but I'm not really sure how it works.

 

Are you planning on putting a stock radio back in, or an aftermarket one. Which one determines the best course of action

 

Aftermarket. Later on I might go back to stock. The last time I bought an install kit that it would specifically fit my vehicle it was way off. So if you or anyone else know of a reasonably priced kit that will work for my car that would be great. When I search it alot of different things pop up and I really don't want to buy one that wont fit properly.

 

the first two pictures posted arent ringing any bells for me. all my stock wires were removed when i got the car though, but i have never seen radio connections like that. are all of you AC Heater controlls working? lights, fan and all that? they look more like they belong in there.

also, do you have the plate that goes around the heater controls and radio? post some pics up of it with the radio in so we can see what the malfunction of it not being wide enough. that's really unusual.

 

I have the faceplate piece and I will take a pic in afew mins. I'm about to head out there to tinker with it some more. The ac doesn't work but the compressor is broken. The fan and all that comes on so I'm not sure what the wires are for.

 

i would take a look under the heater controls and see if they are missing those connections.

these are the wires you need:
constant 12v source (i have mine going to my battery. had a pre-existing battery wire from previous owner's amp setup so i ponied on to that... i know... bad idea)

a source that kicks it on when ignition is on. i had to rewire mine because previous guy took out ALL the stock wires, and have mine running into the ignition slot in the fusebox

ground wire

and the antenna wire (big black wire that never fits into the deck, they have connectors at bestbuy for this for $15

and the speaker wires.

just went down and took some crappy phone pics of my install kit. i have mine held in with the heater panel bolts. the other brackets in my kit didnt fit on the size. but it's sturdy.

http://img821.imageshack.us/i/img00295201104071925.jpg/
http://img717.imageshack.us/i/img00296201104071925.jpg/

so thats how wide mine is, if that helps. and mine sticks out from the console also, you can see it in the 2nd pic. you said something about the deck being too long?

 

Ok so I have it fitting almost perfect now. I just finished wiring the speakers and now I just have to figure out the radio wiring. Im familiar with the antenna wire (of course doesn't fit but ill deal with that later... cds for me ), the black ground wire, the yellow battery wire. There isn't the red ignition power. These are the ones left to identify:

A green wire & an orange wire caped together
A pink wire (maybe it serves the same purpose as a red wire?)
a brown wire and gray side by side
a lime green wire and a green wire side by side that are spliced into two dark green wires
A thin yellow wire
A burnt shade of orange with a brownish gray wire. They're connected into a two pin connector that's not hooked up to anything.

 

check my thread about the stock wires, i think some of the guys posted a few diagrams that should help you with these wires. the ignition wire wont be a problem, if you have to, just wire into the fuse slot. check out those diagrams and let us know what you find!

 

Ill post some pics of my stock wires tomorrow. ive got my radio out right now so it will be a breeze. I just dont feel like headin out to the garage again tonight.

 

Actually I just remembered that a member commented that the pink is gm's version of the red. I'm hooking up the stereo now and I will post how it goes. Now all that left is to figure out those other wires. I'll check out the diagrams you mentioned and see if they shed some light. In the meantime I'm just going to cap them.

Now I just need to find my vacuum leak and work on my interior some more lol

What were you talking about in. Your thread about semi- local and a cruise?

 

post #8 has links to all the diagrams

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...rket-deck.html

 

Ok so I'm trying to wire up something and I'm once again lost. So I was trying to wire into my constant 12v but nothing seem to be happening. I thought the yellow was it but I checked out this site and it says its the orange. I have one 16g orange wire. I have one 16g yellow wire and a really thick yellow wire. Oh and the pink one. Which I'm hearing two diff things about. One says its for the antenna and one says its for the ignition 12v. I'm so friggin grrr right now lol


This is the site Im referring to

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...etail/482.html

 

It lives! But when I got it hooked up I found out I have power locks... wtf? They just stated going off lol can anyone explain that to me?

 

You must have tapped the wire for an aftermarket relay set for your door locks. Probably hooked up to an alarm somewhere...

 

the 12volt is good but take it with a grain of salt, theyre still a forum like us

IIRC pink is ignition (accessory) hook it to the red on the deck harness, orange is your constant, ground is black, for the speakers the trick we use (as racist as it sounds i DIDNT come up with this) for GM's its lights in the front, darks in the back, so the lighter of the two wires up front will be your positive, and the darker of the 2 in back will be positives, its never failed and theyre always in phase, as for the door lock tweaking out look under your dash for a brain (small black box with a good amount of wires going to it) do you not have a lock and unlock button on your door????

if youre trying to wire up your constant and theres no power there check your fuses, if your not getting contant power that means your cig lighter and your dome light wont be turning on too keep that in mind, using a multimeter is going to be your best bet, even if you didnt know the wire colors you could map out the wires with one

 

Ok I need you to help me set up my radio like this. Is it safe for the battery? Is it going to drain it? After I hooked up my radio I found out they had done a lot of crazy wiring and I figured it would be ok but like 2 days later my battery was dead. I'm hoping if I can do it like yours it won't drain my battery.

 

well, its fine to do that, but not preferred. amps are commonly run off the battery, and i had an existing wire running from my battery from the previous owner's amps. i just connected to that for the time being, since one of my near future projects is pulling out the entire dash and fabbing a custom one. i'll worry about it then. it's easy. the only "hard" part is getting through the firewall. but chances are with these old cars, you wont have too much work to do to get through

 

Ok hold up. Tap the proper connections don't start doing jenky wiring or you're gonna hate it when your system melts down on you. No offense scooter but I HATE when people bring in their cars to me and the wiring is just scary to look at lol

Sunshine id hit up a local member I know the scaryone is in tucson, just find someone to help you set this thing up properly and like I said before you're gonna have to cut your heater vents, I've cut my fair share of vents and the depth issue is about the only reason I see thirdgens at the shop anymore, just bust out a multimeter and get to probing wires

 

Here's the issue... I wired it correctly but for some reason it killed my battery. When I hooked it up my locks started locking and unlocking themselves. Also I found the fuse for my courtesy lights and I replaced it. The only way my radio works is if that fuse is in. I have no clue what is going on with it and all my money is going to the mechanical side of my car. So unless there's someone who wants to go chasing wires in my car for free I'm S.O.L. lol

 

Sunshine id offer to do it for you but I'm no longer in az, unhook the stero and do a parasitic draw test, I doubt its the deck, when you turn the key off does it shut off?

 

I've got a way yyou can do it but I want to exhaust all other options, no stereo will draw current if its done properly ya know?

 

How do you do a parasitic draw test? I'm not really sure what that is...

Everything was good until I activated the posessed car from hell lol

 

http://m.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

Here's a how to, you can pick up a meter from checker pretty cheap if you don't have one, I think it might be those power lock actuators that are causing it, if the deck or speakers were to ground the deck would go in to protect mode

start by unhooking the decks harness, then do the test, if theres still a draw then its not the deck, then hook it up and do the test again that will tell you where the problem lies

 

dont worry man i hate it too. my previous owner actually pulled out ALL the radio wires completely in my case, and that was just a quick tap for the time being.

now, i want to find a constant 12v source to connect to, and i was told there is one under the passenger seat area? i havent pulled that part up yet. is this true?

 

I would just tap the orange wire at the column for constant, fuse it with a 10 amp fuse and connect it to the deck wire, much more reliable I'm not sure on the carpet wire lol that sounds iffy I don't remember ever seeing one

 

try this

 

Any luck with that parasitic load test?

 

I am so incredibly broke and still have to replace vacuum hoses and rebuild my carb. How much are they?

 

Roughly 20 bucks for one that will work, they're black or yellow, whatever they've got will do

 

Will this do?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-LCD-Digital-...item4cf6528a9e

 

Yeah actuall I use that one at work since imy expensive fluke got busted....wish I would have founf it on ebay lol oriely marked it up like 15 bucks! Lol

 

Yeah lol I'm a bargain shopper someone said I might have activated or hit an old alarm..? I know jack about alarms so how can I tell if I did? If I did what do I do? I don't want to mess anything up worse than it already is so I'm kinda standoff-ish about messing with it. That's why I was gonna just run new wiring lol just bypass it all. Any thoughts?

 

Oh hey. If I just cut the wires to or remove the actuators it will stop right? Cuz I bought the car thinking they were manual locks anyways lol I can go w/o malfunctioning power locks

 

True, jason had mentioned that earlier, if there were an alarm in there your stereo wiring should not be tied into it, if it is....find the person who installed it and punch them in the face.

While that's not possible its a nice thought lol look around for a black blox, probably not that big there will be a harness going into it, maybe 2 depending on the brand,nthere will be like a red wire, red/white, orange etc etc and it will all be on one long plug, maybe up to 12 wires it would definitely not look factory, check on the drivers side above the hush panel, all the wires necessary for an alarm would be most accesible in that location, if you do find it, unplug the harness from it, with an aftermarket alarm all the connections are piggy backed so unplugging the brain simply returns it back to its normal state, there could be a short in the brain, burnt harness etc just something shorting to ground, now with your door lock actuators do you have power locks? If there are actuators then there should be buttons on the door for lock and unlock, if not id be leaning towards the possibility of a keyless/alarm insall..... this. Would be a hell of a lot easier if I was in az still lol

 

you dont need a multi meter to check a draw.disconnect the positive cable,connect a test light between the battery and the cable to complete the connection and be sure to take out the dome light bulb or hold the switch and pull fuses until the light goes out.that will identify the circuit then you need to check all accessorys on that circuit one by one.

 

God I wish I could smack them! Lol

I can pretty much tell you what fuse its gonna be... the courtesy light one. What I don't get is why its tied into the things it is. When I pull that fuse courtesy lights turn off, radio turns off, and the power locks from hell stop locking and unlocking.

 

They probly did it for constant power nfor the the actuators, you can pop the door panel and cut them if you want, tape upp all the wires though then check for the draw and see if it went away

 

On older full size chevy trucks the courtesy fuse is also the fuse for the radio. At least on my 80 C-10 it was.

 

Not anymore, it controls the dome light, dinger (I think) and the ciggarette lighter, the radio is fused on its own circuit iirc

 

Body wiring diagram for 82 Berlinetta.

 

Well I cut the wires to the locks and put wire caps on them. Now I get to see if it takes care of the issue. Since my battery was dead I took it autoxone and had it charged. When I put it back on my car it wasn't reading fully charged. It was at about 6. Now the battery is dead again. I don't know if its because the battery is gone or if I still have a parasitic draw. I'm suppose to be receiving a multimeter but who knows how long that'll be. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like a shorted cell in the battery

 

I thought was prob it...now another question. I have a friend here who says he can trickle charge it and 'bring it back to life' is that true? would it last? Or just die a little while later?

 

Doubtful, the idea behind thatis that it would shake the sediment off the cells, problem is once its shorted its not just the sediment making contact

A new battery is your best bet but give the trickle charge a shot if you'd like

 

He's right, it'll be good for a while, but a more permanent fix would be a good battery.

 

How long do you think it'll last? I've. Got rent coming up so I'm low on cash until after.