These are for a 1992 Camaro RS, I've mentioned it before. It's red, no T tops, no power windows, no Bose system. Factory speakers with a rather horrible Boss audio AM/FM CD deck.

Alright, first and foremost, from what I've read, the rear sail speakers are 6x9", and the front dash speakers are 4" or 4x6". Is that true?

Second, has anyone used these kick panel enclosures?

http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_044K...m-Beige-B.html

If so, are they of good quality?

Also, is there room in that "trunk" hole in the rear of the Camaro for this Bazooka subwoofer?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BT8D...BT8024DVC.html

I have a MTX 150w x2 300w x1 bridged @ 4 ohms amp I can purchase from a friend for $75, it has new capacitors, he worked it over himself, he is quite good at this so I am quite comfortable buying it from him.

And of course, what are good locations to run the power, and audio cables?

Lastly, where would I put this amp without having it overheat?

I can get a model # for the amp.

As for the deck and speakers, I plan to buy a Pioneer AM/FM CD player with 6x9" and 5 1/4" pioneer speakers. That is why I asked about the kick panel enclosures, and the rear sails. The front dash speakers won't be used, I'm just gonna pull the wires to the enclosures. Any advice on how to route it would be nice. I know where the ECM under the dash on the pass side, and I know where the fuse box is on the drivers side.

 

1) yes

2) I've seen several folks use the Q-logics - but they are really expensive (in my book) for what they are. Keep in mind, no power windows means possible handle crank issues - check for clearance.

3) should fit fine - dimensions are under the specs in your link - measure the hole in the trunk to verify

Routing wires - the large power wire for the amp, needs to come directly off the battery. Most folks choose a spot close the the ECM wire harness onm the pass side to come through the firewall. You want to make sure this amp wire has really good insulation around it anywhere it could potentially get cut by sharp metal - drill a nice hole, sand the edges to remove burrs. I even used a piece of rubber fuel line to add another 1/4 inch insulation around my amp wire where it comes through the firewall to ensure it never grounds. That amp wire grounds somewhere, and the battery will short, overheat, explode, and cause a major fire.

Same with any other wires - make sure they are well insulated so as to not get grounded, and you'll be fine. Might consider running the flexible tubing that the power mirror/window cars have between the door and the car to protect the wires going into the door - your doors should already be cut for this - just remove the caps for access.

 

I wasn't planning on putting speakers in the doors, these go to the kick panels. Just stating that, the power window motors add extra wiring, as for the electrical, I was gonna use 4 gauge wire, that website sells a kit (link below).

What I meant by how to run the wires is, how should I hide them with the least amount of hassle? A 4 gauge wire is kinda hefty. RCA's will be no problem, I'll cut a hole in the carpet under the center console, run them under the carpet, all the way to the back, not 100% sure how I'll get them back there, but I'll do it.

The power wire is the big thing, how can it be hid? I don't want a lump in the carpet.

And, these Q-Form enclosures are $67.99 for two, here's another link, the last one broke. I'll have to get some interior trim panel dye and paint 'em gray to match the interior. They come in beige, or flame red, though the car is red, I do not want tacky kick panels. I'll also get some baffles to go behind the speakers if any rattling happens.

http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_044K...l?cc=02&tp=130


Lastly, it slipped my mind, but the deck is used, it's out of a friends 2001 Pontiac Sunfire. $100 for the deck and all four speakers. I have learned that the newer Pioneer decks however, have a micro fuse, it can blow easily if the amp kicks back any current through the RCA's. I have a friend who can fix it, but he lives so far away I'd have to ship it. But for $100, how can you complain? I'll have $432.97 in the whole stereo. Not bad considering most shops charge over $400 for an install job without a subwoofer. However, it will only cost me $167.99 to begin with, stereo, speakers, and Q forms.

Oh before I forget, installation kit link:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA41...mp+wiring+kits

Oh and for the record, this is the amp, I'm buying it refurbed from a friend for $75:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-WyVXswE...under8302.html

So, any advice on where to put the amp?

Thanks already for the advice, I'll get some pics of the enclosures as I'm putting them in, though for the record it'll be about 3 to 6 months, I like to do my thorough research before I attempt any project. I'll make a new thread on installing Q-Forms when that time comes, the wiring, the amp, and the Bazooka aswell, maybe a mod can sticky it for others to see.

First up will be the Q forms, price tag of initial instal of the stereo, as I said, will be $167.99. Which needless to say, and as I've already said, is very affordable. It's the subwoofer that's going to eat my wallet. Anyway, thanks again, and thanks yet again if you can give me some idea's on the amp. My brother is using the car for now, soon it will be mine, when it is, I'll get measurements. Maybe I'll throw some idea's by here.

Either way, I will make a thread, and try to get it stickied about installing the Q forms enclosures.

 

There is also an interference issue if you have a clutch pedal. I have a set of these and have become accustom to keeping my left foot near the base of the seat as there is no room next to the pedal.

 

The Camaro in question was at one point a manual, I think. It has the reservoir for a manual transmission. I believe it was swapped to an automatic 'cause the previous owners son couldn't drive a stick.

Lemme clarify, the red Camaro in the pictures in my "garage" is a

1992 Camaro RS, V6, automatic, (possibly formerly a 5spd)
Crank windows, basic stereo from the factory, absolutely no features what so ever. Except possibly a 5 speed.

Has a rear window defroster, so the alternator should be beefy enough.

The black Camaro in my "garage" isn't the one I'm talking about. It's my brother's car, quite a strange car that one.

If I learn to drive a stick, I could swap the red one back over to a 5 speed. If I can find a 5 speed that is. The transmissions in those cars aren't too hard to swap out, we have a lift we can access, if that's the case, I'll make note of the issue installing the Q forms.

Thanks for that bit of advice, with that in mind, I may just leave it an automatic. The transmission only has about 15k miles on it, so there's no need to swap it, other than performance. And if I make that car any faster I'm going to wind up with a speeding ticket.

Now all I've gotta do is figure out where that amp'll go, but that won't be for a while, initially it'll just be the stereo, speakers, and Q forms, $167.99, not bad for a good install, not a great one, 'cause the speakers are just Pioneers, I'd rather have Kickers, might swap them later, but for now, it'll do. Thanks again for the advice, and, when I get around to putting in the Q-Forms in, I'll take some pictures and post it. I'll do the same for the Amp.

I do have one more question, however

How on earth do you get the rear speakers out? I have a feeling it's going to involve removing the back seats. Though I have to take those out to run the power wires, I'll wind up having to do it twice 'cause I won't install the power wires or RCA's until much later.

 

qlogic kicks look nice, but need a bit of fiberglass on the back to make them more rigid.

rear speakers will come out pretty easily. remove the coat hanger screw, slide fabric b pillar panels up toward roof and pull out, mounting screws should now be accessible.

 

Alright, thanks for that bit of info, my father is pretty good with fiber glassing stuff, so I'll have him do that.

Should I use baffles behind the new speakers? Or will vibrations not be an issue?

And is there anything else I should do or remember while installing?

Thanks again.

 

Sorry - had in mind door panels rather than kick panels

I routed my amp power wire on pass side, though firewall by ECM connector, and under the door sill cover into the rear set area, where it runs behind the pass side sail panel, and comes out where spare tire is.

 

Sorry about the long delay, I've been extremely busy. We've been packing a trailer for a annual labor day weekend flea market nearby. I live in Roanoke, VA, we're going to the Hillsville flea market. We tow a 16ft trailer packed to the rafters, mostly assorted antiques and whatnot, some automotive stuff, we've got some general tire tire insert signs this year, some NOS shell over the gas pump sign rounds. We use my fathers 1986 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, 307 V8, 700R trans, to tow it, we've been busy getting it ready, and getting the trailer ready. We had to replace the wheel cylinders, and brake shoes on the Olds, gotta change the oil yet. We also put a new centerlink on the car. That one was original, 275k miles ago, motor only has 75k, trans only 80k, chassis, about 275k.

This audio project will hopefully take place spring or early summer of 2012, by then (hopefully before) I'll have a job. Music is about the only thing that keeps me from going nuts behind the wheel. Plus, it's great to irritate people who won't hang up and drive .

I was personally thinking of running it under the spare tire aswell, 'cause, I don't think I could easily get it around the "glove box" on the drivers side. Peculiar place to put a glove box, I'll probably remove it and snug the hell outta the spare tire to keep it from rattling, probably throw some vibration dampening material back there.

On the plus side, having a subwoofer back there means the only thing between it and the guy tailgating me is brake lights. You about get run over around here for doing the speed limit, 5 over doesn't help. I loved my neighbors Cavalier's "tailgater be gone" feature. It had a touchy brake pedal, lights would come on, no brakes. I'd brake check them without touching the brakes. Quite amusing, actually.

And thanks again for the advise, I'll take pictures as I go. Try to document it, so that people can see how it should be done. As I said, I'll only be installing the Q forms first. I plan to use the existing speaker wire and lengthen it with some sleeved blade connectors if need be. That is, if the speakers use blade connectors, if not I'll crimp it and add some.