Is it even possible?

Parameters (For 1991 GTA)

• Original 1991 radio head unit (want stock look) w/ MP3 jack (that's all I listen to)
• speakers in stock locations
• Bass Tube/Box in well area
• Amp

I have no audio experience so I need suggestions on entire system. I know I need an amp to make system sound decent with original head unit.

Not sure what else whoever chimes in needs so please ask! Thanks for your time.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310553757751...84.m1439.l2649


I have in my 92 bird

Dual head unit $40
Kicker ZX750.1 (08 model) $170
2 Kicker comp10's $120
Firebird sub box from ebay $90
JL 4x6's $40 @ the time of purchase

For keeping the stock look with the original deck you need a special converter. I have one that im not using but i dont remember what its called. I can get a picture for you later on. i think they are about $30

 

i can respect wanting to keep it stock looking but the quality of the oem hu sucks. if i were only going to change one thing that would be it. if you just listen to mp3's you can get ones that you just plug the thumb drive into, or have ipod control. i have a clarion one that is bluetooth, i can control it from my phone with no wires. it was like 150. sonic electronics has some good prices on all that

 

I think you can have the oem unit and have the aftermarket deck in a hidden location and control it remotely.

 

Thanks punkmaster for the audio recipe.

How much will the hidden HU cost and how much improvement will that give? I really do not have to have an outstanding audio system. I figure whatever an amplifier will give me with the original HU is good enough for me. Decent speakers, amp, and a little bass will make me happy. To be frank I really do not listen to music all that much when I drive because I like the sound of the engine so much. I would like a decent option though when I want some music. Does not have to be great but decent. My folks bought a Caddy back in 87 and I remember that Bose system was pretty impressive. Could I not get close to that with what Im proposing?

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-BassLink.html -sub/amp $170

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...r-SK46101.html -wiring $30

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-IBLOC04.html -line output converter $10

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...KFC-4675C.html -dash speakers $45

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ce-9632cf.html - sail panel speakers $80

total cost $335+shipping

Speakers will sound like crap with an OEM deck but there's you a pretty decent list. Even if you use a hidden aftermarket deck but use the OEM unit to control volume, fader/balance etc your aftermarket deck's signal will still pass through the OEM setup which will still make it sound awful. If you want the true OEM look with modern day sound I suggest you buy a second amplifier for your cabin speakers and look into purchasing a JL Audio Cleansweep.

 

Thanks souljustice. Is that original HU that bad? I guess Ive missed out on a whole bunch of new tech over the years or I am very easy to please. In any case if I can get what I need for $335 how much would it cost to add a hidden HU with all the wiring to make it work. The stock stereo in the dash is a must.

Also is it possible to have both and have both functional? Maybe switch from one to another with a switch? Has anyone ever done that?

 

It's not that they're bad. Stereos back in the 80s were made to produce sound out speakers. Not quality sound, or even accurate sound. Sound quality of a stereo is hard to explain to someone and justifying it in dollar amounts is harder to do if you do not consider yourself an audiophile. Honestly, if you just want a little bit of bass oomph and some music, I would stick with what I suggested above and buy an FM transmitter for your iPod/MP3 player/phone and call it good until your stock radio bites the dust.

If you wanted to do a remote deck, I would probably mount it under the dash on the passenger's side, above the hush panel. It would be easy to leave power ran to the OEM deck to retain the clock function and such but have all your audio needs met by the aftermarket deck. If you are wanting to keep the Delco radio for authenticity but have decent sound there really wouldn't be a point to making a source switch between the two, but yes, it is perfectly feasible to have a source switch to select between the two and wouldn't be very difficult to wire up either.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...H-X6500BT.html here's a Pioneer head unit, even has Bluetooth for $125+shipping

 

if you get a hu thats bluetooth and you have a android phone you can control most everything with that. so if you put the deck in the suggested spot you wont have wires for aux in or usb and that. so it will just look like you have the stock radio but really it will be under the dash.

 

Yes I do have an android phone. This is really interesting! I am very interested in doing this then. So this HU

will get me that capability correct? I assume that when combined with the setups that souljustice and punkmaster mentioned that it will put out decent sounds as well?

 

i think i would go with the speakers and wiring kit soul suggested. the smaller integrated 10/box will be plenty for your application and be easier to install. only thing i thought GTA's had the sail panels with the upgraded 4X6/5.25 setup?

 

Will that blootooth feature work with the IPhone as well? Also if mounted in the stock location, will it sit flush or protrude from the dash an inch or so?

 

most of those adapter brackets do stick out a bit. i dont like iphones so i have no idea. i have a htc 4g android phone, its got fm tuner, auto links with my hu and brings up the mp3 player and starts playing with out me touching anything. you can control the volume and you can get eq apps for android if the phone doesnt have one

 

I guess Ill do a search but does anyone know of any threads they can post a link to that has this type setup installed on a 3rd gen (stock HU then the other HU under hush panel).

Im very interested in seeing this because I will pull the trigger on this soon.

 

not likely many people do it. most either leave it alone or if your going to put it in pull out the stock one and put it there

 

My 2 cents worth here on an oem radio. The 2 board radios which were the only option really suck. Proned to channel failure due to the lack of ventilation in the radio/heater pod. When they worked they performed well.
The Delco radios with the CDM module out performs the 2 board radios hands down.

I just completed repairing a 88-89 GTA radio that was in a car in a basement of a museum that flooded where the car was. I sold the owner a replacement in trade for his.

Using that oem radio and a boombox set up it was too loud 4 rooms away in a 2500 square foot house. No amplifier. If you want the oem look, go with a 4th gen radio with a CDM module. They are easy to put an aux input into.

 

ive had the best gm makes, i have a bonneville with the 8spkr bose setup, i had a 03 monte with the external amp, my firebird had the "performance sound" package. none were anywhere close to even a $130 aftermarket hu in sound quality, options, and clear volume.

 

I see a lot of people posting links to www.sonicelectronix.com. Try http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/, I find they have better prices and you get free shipping if you spend $100+.

If you want an inexpensive setup, buy a mid level head unit (not the cheapest but not the most expensive) that has the features you want and match it with a set of speakers that are designed to run the same RMS.

The only purpose for an amp is to give the speakers more power. An amp doesn't necessarily make the speakers sound better, if you buy the correct speakers that match the head unit. There are speakers that will require an amp because of their RMS, but those are for a high end sound systems.

I'm looking at a system (head unit and front and rear speakers) that will cost just under $300.

If you want a subwoofer, then you will need an amp for the sub alone. I would suggest Alpine class D mono amp for subs. Their amps are very good and inexpensive. The same holds true about RMS but you also have to look at peak watts so you don't blow up your subwoofer.

I have setup several car audio systems and know what to look for when building one.