anyone built an amp box and still used t-top bag?
anyone built an amp box and still used t-top bag?
im going to build a box where my t-top bag is and place all my amps,cap........i want to relocate the t-top brackets to the top of the amp box, im thinkin about putting a plexi-glass window on the top, to show off my stuff. I was wondering if anyone has done this
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89 iroc 5.7 can't go fast enough. 14.1
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89 iroc 5.7 can't go fast enough. 14.1
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
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From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
I thought of that setup a long time ago and decided against it for two reasons:
1-clearance problems with the rear hatch
2-high visibility which would tempt theft
I wound up mounting both amps in the wheel well under the subs. And there is still enough room for a cap if I wanted to install one. However, this option depends on the size of your sub box (I use a board) and the size of your amps. Just my .02
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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake
1-clearance problems with the rear hatch
2-high visibility which would tempt theft
I wound up mounting both amps in the wheel well under the subs. And there is still enough room for a cap if I wanted to install one. However, this option depends on the size of your sub box (I use a board) and the size of your amps. Just my .02
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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake
iroctpis,
I did exactly wha you are talking about.
Here is a link to the pics in another thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000854.html
The t-top bag brackets are on top of the amp rack. The sub box grill is sturdy enought that the other side of the ttop bag can rest on them. clearance with the hatch was fine (but close), and as for visibility, this car had the tonneau cover.
Awesome setup.
mike
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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at http://www.lachernet.com/kickpanels
I did exactly wha you are talking about.
Here is a link to the pics in another thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000854.html
The t-top bag brackets are on top of the amp rack. The sub box grill is sturdy enought that the other side of the ttop bag can rest on them. clearance with the hatch was fine (but close), and as for visibility, this car had the tonneau cover.
Awesome setup.
mike
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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at http://www.lachernet.com/kickpanels
that was a nice setup, I think i'm going to do what someone recommended and build up my rack over the t-top bag, not to high, I still want to have my cover back there
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89 iroc 5.7 can't go fast enough. 14.1
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89 iroc 5.7 can't go fast enough. 14.1
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OK ... I have a custom fiberglass sub box that I built that perfectly fits in the deep well in the rear. The top is the same level in height as the rearmost t-top bag attachments so that these attachments can still be used. The amp rack is built on the hump (and is basically a box) and the top of it is the exact same height as the sub box. The amp rack meets the sub box and extends to the rear seat. The top of the amp rack and the top of the sub box are all on the same level so that when you open the hatch there is just one flat plane surface back there. The subs are flush mounted into the sub box. I have grills I can pop over the subs and I have carpeted "plugs" I can pop over the subs and ports (when not using the subs and need the small amount of storage space). Currently the top of the amp rack is a carpeted board and you can't see the amps or anything unless you remove the top. This summer I think I'm gonna build plexiglass windows into it so you can see the equipment and make a carpeted cover to cover everything in case I need to haul something back there (to keep the plexi from getting scratched). So far I haven't had any problems with my amps overheating (they're kinda small) even though there is basically zero clearance, but if I do - then I'll just design a air ducting system using 12V computer fans for an intake and exhaust. Anyway ... I can still attach my t-top back back there with the tops in it. It's a tight fit but it works. The bag just sits on top of the amp rack and overlaps on top of the sub box. As long as its strapped down then it can't hit or damage the subs. Initially I built a prototype where the t-top slipped into a slot UNDER the amp rack. I thought it looked kinda dorky so I redid it this way and it looks much better. The big problem in the design is cooling the amps. So far, mine have been fine.
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