Anyone know how deep of a single Din head unit will fit into a Firebird stock radio space? I'm seeing some of these newer units that don't have a CD player get shorter. How deep is the hole from the where the face of the unit back to the trans tunnel / hvac air tubes or what ever is in the way back there? One has caught my eye and it has a mounting depth of 6-3/8" deep. Is that going to fit flush without sticking out?

 

I have a newish Alpine 175BT cd player in my T/A with a typical +3/4” spaced adapter. I have external amps and rcas directly on the back of the deck - the speaker harnesses from the factory connector have been lovingly routed out of the housing to save space, the wiring harness from the deck has had every unnecessary wire depinned, removed.

And it’s still a tight squeeze.

There are Hvac ducts that take up most of the available unused space. If you need / want a flush mount deck you can get a mechless unit (no cd) that saves 3” or more of space. I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve listened to a cd vs my wife and I fighting over Bluetooth.

 

The manual says your Alpine is 7" in depth, are you saying it sticks out 3/4" ? I've read some people had no issues with the hvac ducts getting in the way, while others took steps to melt them into conformity for more room.

 

The adapters stick out that much. If you want it flush, as mine is, you need to cut out the radio pod at the back. This does not interfere with the duct work. I also attached a metal strap the back of my pod and was able to fasten the other end to the back of the radio to support it.

 

Well, it seems you may not need the stock radio mounting sleeve as they provide a new one when you buy the head unit. that is a point of confusion for me. thought I was going to install a Sony that offers 50W/channel but guess I will stick with a JVC boat radio that offers 22W, less than 4" deep and will solve all the mount problems. hopefully 22W will get me where i want to be with T-Tops off. tired of lugging a big portable speaker around and buckling it in the backseat for some tunes.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...ness-help.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...nting-kit.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...iew-howto.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX...S.html?tp=5684
https://www.us.jvc.com/car/marinemotorsports/kd_x38mbs/
file:///C:/Users/jim/Downloads/B5A-3840-00.pdf


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BT6...ka-BT6014.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...#&gid=1&pid=12

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...#&gid=1&pid=12



From an '87 IROC

Chassis 7 15/16 W x 5 H x 3 3/8 H

Bezel 8 1/8 W x 5 1/8 H x 3 1/2 H
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...imensions.html

 

I’d be willing to bet the Firebird pod is smaller than the Camaro.

Adapter has the deck protruding 3/4”.

 

i see your system is 18W/ch 50W max? do you have T-tops,if so, is it loud enough with t-tops off?

 

I’m an SQ guy. The deck power is not being used. The car has a 4x40W amp, running 4” components on kickpanels and dual 8s in the trunk well. It sounds best with the t tops off, (I haven’t tried with the components - just finished install today). You can easily drown out highway wind noise with the stereo. It won’t rattle windows, flip coins on the trunk lid or set off car alarms but the stage is phenomenal and the bass more than adequate with the horn effect of the rear window. The gain slider is active and attenuates the low level sub output (bass ****).