ok, i have the infamous whining noise that gets whinier everytime you press on the gas

heres what ive done, ive ran from the positive and negative connectors up near the battery, ran 12 gauge speaker wire to a .5 farad lightning cap(tired of my head unit dimming), to the head unit directly, and it solved the problem, for about 30 minutes...

out cruising and pop it comes back, pull the car back in the garage...

ran new RCA's, i got the purple and brown fosgate RCA's ran for front channel(not hook up to amp tho), rear ran for my rear(plugged into a fosgate power 800.4 the way its supposed to be for 2 channel mode), and the subwoofer ran to my moms old 8' Bazooka tube that im using now till i get my money for my 2 bd1000a1's...still is there...

so i backed up my moms 2001 Grand Am GT, she has 2 12's in the back of her car(old fosgate punch's that are ran off her stock deck, amplified with a US acoustics amp, with some speaker wire to rca converter), and plug my rear output rca's(those are the ones that power my 6x9's that are getting the whine), and its clear as day off her 12's...

ok so now im thinking what the ****? i go back and i hook up rca's from her output on her amp and plug it into my 800.4, its clear as day...

now im ****in pissed, hooked my fosgate back up to my rca's, and the WHINE IS BACK!@#$

WTF?@#$#@!

ok, so now i just left it that way, i have a pioneer premier DEHP410, and a 190 AMP ohio generators alternator...

a lightning cap is hooked up, and i have a vortex 900 CCA battery...

all grounds are good, they are on the frame, all paint gone, and bolted in with proper connectors, i dont do half *** stereo installs...

any ideas?

only thing im going to try it get my friend excelon deck and hook that up and see if i still get it, i also get a little "muffling" noise between tracks when i switch them...

 

are you running your rca's down the same side of the car as the power wire? if so that is probably your problem. actually if it increases when accelerating it(power wire) could even be too close to ANY wire sending a power signal to anything in your car. let me know, and if that is not it, we can discuss this further.

also i would not run a cap to the HU. if anythhing run it to the amp. the amp's current drawing is what makes the HU dim.

 

ok im going to run through your responses...

no power wire is ran down the passenger side, and rca's down drivers side, i havnt had this problem the whole time...

amp is only powering 6x9's, head unit dims even im just running all speakers off the deck...

figured .5 would help that, i got 4 1.0 caps for my other amps...

 

nevermind

[This message has been edited by bigvic (edited September 25, 2001).]

 

check the ground on your HU

 

ground on HU
filter on HU for ALT
hmm.... still thinkin....


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91 FireBird 305 V-8
Edelbrock Catback, Custom Alarm. Fourth Gen Console. i have six cupholders. all for starbucks!
Go|)Created The Earth, And Then Turned Up The Bass.
Here's My Audio Install!

"Honda's FOR ME TO POOP ON!" -Triumph...

 

heh, its not the ground! i ran the 12 gauge wire from the back of the HU to the negative terminal spot up near the battery...

besides, if it was, how comes it plays out ok on my moms 12's?

im starting to think my HU is bad...

 

99 out of 100 times, that problem (ground loop) is caused by an inadequate amp ground. Disconnect the amp ground and scrape the metal around the area, and re-attach the ground with one of those scratchy star washers, and make sure it's good and tight.

Please describe your wiring for the sub amp. You told us about the head unit, but since I doubt that's the problem, I want to know about the amp wiring.

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ok, heres how it goes, i have 4 gauge wire ran from the back, and it goes into a distrobution block, i have a 2 4 gauge in and 4 8 gauge out, so my cap, amp, and 8 inch tube all go into that block, and grounds are same for my ground block...

the 4 gauge ground wire comes out on the right hand side of the car in the back on the hump, goes under the panel, and right above the wheelwell right there there is a big block kind of just metal, me and my brother used a drill with a wirebrush and scraped all the paint away from there, then hooked the wire up to a 4 gauge connector(the kinds that go on lightning caps), and tightened it down hard as nutz...

we checked the ground to make sure it was still tight, and its not loose at all...

like i said...after we redid the head unit, it took care of the noise, for just a while, out cruising around, and boom, it just came back all of a sudden...

 

I say just hook it up to your friends excelon deck and see what happens with that.

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If its not a camaro or corvette then what is it really?

 

Try swapping the head units first.

I don't think bad grounds or grounds with different levels cause whining sounds...the would create lower pitched hums.

I sounds like the problem is associated with your alternator....the faster it runs (during acceleration) the more it whines.

If you hadn't already done so, get a good AC filter for the power wire to the head unit. See if the whine comes through the normal speaker wires or through the RCA outputs. Also check to make sure the wiring at the alternator is good.

Hope this helps

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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

That's EXACTLY what creates whining sounds. It's called a ground-loop, and it exists when one or more grounds in the audio system is not as "clean" or as good as the others. This creates a voltage-potential between the two devices, which makes it tougher for the internal noise-rejection filters in the power supplies to overcome the RFI. This is a pretty simplified description because I don't feel like pulling out my books.

99.44% of all alternator noise is caused by either a ground loop or a wasted power supply in one of the pieces of equipment.

It sounds like you've got your amp grounds nailed down pretty good, so going to the head unit might be your next task. Where do you have the head unit grounded right now? I'd try moving it. The dash area is a VERY noisy environment. I've had good luck with moving my head unit grounds over near the passenger side kick panel, or sometimes right to a passenger side seat bolt. The seat bolts are easy enough to access for temporary use without pulling up the seat or carpet, so it provides a good testing point.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

ok, i have the ground ran behind the dash, under the kick panel, through the fender, and up to the negative location near the battery...

heres the weird thing tho, i can plug the same RCA's into my moms amp, and I DONT GET ANYTHING!@#$

no noise, whine, or whatever you wanna call it, no muffle between tracks, plays just fine...

like i said, she has the 2 12's ran in full pass mode so its not like im running it in low pass and filtering out the noise

Jim, i need to find out where you live and come pay you a visit

 

Of course there's no noise when you plug it into your mother's. The two cars have totally isolated power supplies, so there is no opportunity for a ground loop to develop.

Don't waste your time running the ground all the way back to your battery, that usually makes it worse.

Try a different head unit and see what happens. The noise filter on that head unit may be shot.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

i agree with the ground loop idea,,,,plus you should never have more than 11 inches of groung wire,,,,and if you already have an extra battery you shoundnt use the cap,,,your cap is robbing your battery of power at this point.

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84 l69 T/A
5 speed, 373 posi rear
comp xe262 cam
hedman hedders and y-pipe no cat edelbrock pipe and areo chamber muffler
performormer rpm intake
holey 750 vac,,tuned for the 305
accel hei w/msd 6a box
wp sr 305 heads,
stereo, 8 memphis power bass 10's,2 memphis 1000d amps,ohio generator 140 amp alt,tsunami dry cell bat,set of memphis power reference 4x6's,and a set of memphis studio 6.5's with a memphis power bass 400 amp on the highs....dbdrag comp car

 

I'm not sure I agree with that. Many multiple battery systems still benefit from caps. A battery can not react fast enough, nor can 2 or 10 batteries. You need the high ESR of a capacitor to provide that instantaneous power. The only benefit you get from an extra battery is extended play time with the car off.



------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

can anyone explain the "POP" i had this happen to mine so think i am experiencing the same thing. I have been following the thread so anyhting additional would be helpful. I can hear my whine with the HU off. I can hear the electic fan with the car not running and the radio off but the key in the "on" position.