I thought I'd try something simple so I decided to try to sealup my Q-forms. Besides covering the backside of the kicks in resin, I made some cup style things that fits into the speaker hole and then the speakers are sealed by the cup. Here's some pics I took. Let me know what ya think.






As you can see by the pics the Bowl that I made has a lip on it so it sets in the speaker hole and then the speaker sets on top of it.

------------------

See my Ride:
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1324

[This message has been edited by jobryan26 (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

That's a good start. Looks to me that it wasn't to messy for you. When you start sanding, wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt that you don't mind ruining. And hope that you aren't allergic to the fibers. Unfortunately I am. But, a little itching for a couple of days is worth the $$$$ that I get.

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

 

Nah wasn't messy at all i guess cause i used a paint brush to put on the resin. I just noticed the last pic looks like i missed some spots but it must be the lighting cause it has 2coats of resin on it(inside and on the outside). Thanx stingerssx

 

these are the times i wish i had the knowledge how to do that cause thats pretty figgin kewl. ah, im paying dj sexay to do it ..

------------------
1991 Firebird (GT40)
-LO3 305 TBI
-5 speed
-Open Element Air Filter
-Edelbrock Tower Strut Brace
-Kenwood Excelon Headunit w/ 10 Disc Changer
-Alpine MRP-F256 Amp
-Polk EX 4x6's, DX 6x9's, and EX Tweeters
-Kicker ZR240 amp (bridged)
-Dual JL W0 12" Subs

-------------------------------
My page with pics and stuff, and car stereo help.
http://members.aol.com/deadtrend1/index.html

 

Well it was a nice try but I'm gonna have to do something different cause I lost alot of my mid-bass because there isn't enough air space. Oh well I'll think of something else.

------------------

See my Ride:
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1324

 

Well you do get what you pay for and buying kick from DJSexay. These dumb Q-forms are just a shell in my opinion. I wouldn't be using them if I had to pay full price for them. I got mine for $50.00 new so I got a pretty good deal. I've been wanting to learn how to do fiberglassing because everone talks about it so much and I've seen some really cool installs using fiberglass and I thought the only way to learn is to do it. It's pretty fun


[This message has been edited by jobryan26 (edited December 04, 2001).]

 

Keep in mind, 80% or more of fiberglassing is the ability to create an accurate mold or framework for streatching over.

If you can make a frame that has all of the support positions that you need, streatching fleece or similar fabric will create the contours for you.

From there it is just glassing and sanding.

------------------
Carl
CarAudio Resources
CarAudio Resources Forums are now ONLINE!

 

I would just cover the inside of the q-forms in dynamat, to keep the resonace of the plastic down. I think that will make a bigger difference then sealing them. If you do seal them, yeah, you need to make a bigger enclosure then the little bowl.

Good try though. You're learning.

mike

------------------


custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

 

As they say "practice makes perfect".lol I just need the practice and the tips you guys are giving me. I think I might try the dynamat thing and see how it does. My kicks sound pretty good but I just can't seem to leave well enough alone, I always want more or better. I had heard many people say to sand the inside of the kicks and put coats of resin on there but that didn't seen like it would have any strength to it so that's when I thought here's me a chance to play with some fiberglass Something simple. I guess I'll have to think of something else to fiberglass. I'm working on my Rearseat amp install maybe I'll try something with fiberglass there.

 

Not too familiar with q-forms, but if the plastic is anything like the stock interior plastic, resin will not stick. If you sand, it will stick better, but it will never form a true bond with the plastic. If you do want to go that route, use some chopped mat or even better, strips of cloth, as resin is very weak and brittle with no reinforcement.

mike

 

Yea i heard that when the fiberglass or resin starts to "kick off" I think that's the term, it gets so hot that it could melt the plastic! I don't think it gets that hot but you're right about the sanding and etc. I don't know I think I'll just Dynamat it and forget it and try fiberglassing my rear seat amp rack.

 

Glad to see another person doing the rear seat amp rack! It's been only 2 of us for a while and I would like to see other people try it. It isn't hard and the best part is you can work on the amp rack withOUT the car .
As for the kicks...I'm almost positive that those speakers are ment to be in a free-air box. I know some speakers like to have foam baffles behind them but they aren't ridged and are used to smooth the sound out of crappy speakers. At least that was my perspective. Would you install a free-air sub in a sealed enclosure ment for a solobaric sub! Probably not a good idea. Nice try though, and I like the idea.
Practice with firberglass brings you closer to perfect.

------------------
, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website

 

Ugg, y'all are gonna make me or DJ break out a back seat amp or processor rack aren't ya? (just kidding, I'd like to see more people try custom work on occasion)

If I could ever get Image to finish the damned IDOne processor, the original intent was to drop it into the back seat.

I'm also kicking around the idea of moving the amps to the rear 6x9 locations...we'll see.

Glad to see you taking it to the next level jobryan...way to go

------------------
Carl
CarAudio Resources
CarAudio Resources Forums are now ONLINE!

[This message has been edited by GndPrx (edited December 05, 2001).]

 

Sorry Carl, you're on your own with that one.

I thought about flushing my EQ's in the back seat, but a few things changed my mine.

1 - every thing I'm doing in the car can be undone, if I ever want to change install ideas, or 'gasp' go back to stock! Cutting the carpet means I'd need to get an upholster to resew carpet back on the seat back.

2 - I fold my back seat down, and that is where my drag radials sit on the way to the track, don't want to damage any equipment doing that.

Actually, I'm debating on moving the amps in my wife's car to the roof ! In a 4th gen, the metal under the head liner, between the t-tops and the glass hatch, is about 9" wide. I think her CFA-1000D's may fit there. Then I just need to make a duplicate headliner out of fiberglass to hack up.

This summer, I'm definately building ported enclosures for the 2 10's. My goal is to have it be the loudest f-body that maintains stock t-top storage!

mike

------------------


custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

 

Mike di you mean this one?

Oh man I love that install! It's has to be one of the nicest and cleanest installs I've seen and it still has lots of room for t-tops. I had actually tried to figure out a way to do that to my car but the subs would have been a PITA so I passed on the idea. I hate to see it go.

 

thats the one. Right now the sub enclousures are .6 cu ft sealed. I'm gonna go 1 cu ft ported each. The will still fit in the cubby holes.

I'll probably will end up leaving the amps on the back wall, but will redo the rack. There is some gaps at the top where the rack meets the side plastic trim, and the rack is a major pain to get out to work on the amps for gains or what not. So I think I'm going with the same design, just built more friendly.

mike

 

OMG....that is sweet....to complet for me tho.....I like you other one.