I picked up a set of Infinity Kappa 652.3i's. They are just Coax sprks and they came with a neat outboard crossover and the tweeter is rotatable. My real question is how do you mount them into the sail panel? Do you just make a baffle board and mount them to that? How about Dynamat or something like that should i get that in there? They are good sounding spkrs they had good bass as well as highs so i get some rear fill when i don't want subs on and just want to sound like a normal car(just better). Well thats that so if anyone can fill me in thank you in advance.

 

if theya re 6x9's. just put them in, not sure ont he magnet size but usually fit in without trouble. should sound just fine without dynamat, just put them in a see. trial and error.

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1991 Firebird (GT40)
-LO3 305 TBI
-5 speed
-Open Element Air Filter
-Edelbrock Tower Strut Brace
-Kenwood Excelon Headunit w/ 10 Disc Changer
-Alpine MRP-F256 Amp
-Polk EX 4x6's, DX 6x9's, and EX Tweeters
-Kicker ZR240 amp (bridged)
-Dual JL W0 12" Subs

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My page with pics and stuff, and car stereo help.
http://members.aol.com/deadtrend1/index.html

 

I haven't done it myself, but I remember Firebretha posted a handful of pics on the way he made his 6.5's fit. I think he used a mounting plate/baffle board that he made himself out of MDF. It'll probably be on his site. Just do a search for his username and click on his sig.

 

Since those are 6.75" speakers, you'll need to make a baffle. Here's what I did to put my CDT coaxials in:



Just take the cover off, take the speaker out, and then take out the metal bracket that the speaker screws into (it's held in by 4 x 7mm screws behind the plastic panel, which are kind of a pain to get at). Then just trace that metal piece onto something, I used 1/8" wood of some sort if I remember correctly, and just make the hole the size you need. Pretty straightforeward.

- Mike

 

slick!

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1991 Firebird (GT40)
-LO3 305 TBI
-5 speed
-Open Element Air Filter
-Edelbrock Tower Strut Brace
-Kenwood Excelon Headunit w/ 10 Disc Changer
-Alpine MRP-F256 Amp
-Polk EX 4x6's, DX 6x9's, and EX Tweeters
-Kicker ZR240 amp (bridged)
-Dual JL W0 12" Subs

-------------------------------
My page with pics and stuff, and car stereo help.
http://members.aol.com/deadtrend1/index.html

 

Quite slick actually. What's all that gadgetry underneath the speaker. I looks like a homemade crossover with a small capcitor or diode or something in there. Oh well i got my own that are made for the speaker so im happy. Should i mount those on the front of the baffle board or in behind it?? Also what about dynamat. should i throw some in behind there?

 

I made one of those for my 6x9s.....I made it out of masonite(spelling).....it works good and there really is no pressure behind teh speakers.....The door vents and how large it is back there and that is connected to the rear hatch area....

 

Yeah, that's a 12 db/oct passive crossover high-passed at something like 120 Hz if I remember correctly (as opposed to 6 db/oct of bass blockers). The top two "gadgets" are a capacitor and an inductor, making the crossover, and the bottom piece is a fuse (extra protection for the amp in case something shorts). As far as your crossovers, you'll probably need to put them behind the panel. There is a cover that goes over top, and there is probably not enough clearance (depth wise) to mount it on the front. There's plenty of room down behinc the panel though. Another thing, your crossover basically splits the signal between the woofer and tweeter, and doesn't block bass from the woofer. If you plan on running a decent amount of power (amp), you may want to consider high-passing them, be it passive crossover, internal amp crossover, or whatnot. Will help prevent blowing the speakers if you have it cranked, and should help your overall sound if you're using subs. For instance, my front components have an external crossover, that splits the signal between the woofer and tweeter at 60 db/oct at something like 5 kHz, but I still have it high-passed on my amp at the same point my sub is low-passed (something around 100 Hz).

- Mike