Hello all:
I just "inherited" a 85 Berlinetta (VIN H) Unfortunately, it wasn't as well-cared for as it should have been. From its maintenance records, it looks like oil changes were done consistently, but that is about it. I want to "fix" it up a bit (and now I have to) before I pass it on to my son. It is a 305 with a computer controlled carb and distributor and digital dash (with that weird post radio). I was doing some much needed maintenance and in the process, I snapped the bolts off the the thermostat housing. Off came the housing, but now I had to remove the bolts. Well, I got some easy outs and promptly broke them off too. So, I decided the BEST way to fix this problem was to get a new exhaust manifold. I am presently awaiting a new Edelbrock Performer manifold (egr emissions legal). What I want to do now is upgrade a few major items when i remove the manifold. I want to keep it street legal, emissions legal, and keep the electronic carb and distributor. My question is, what good upgrades are there for the distributor and carb and distributor that can meet my requirements? I'm definitely a novice at this, but I'm having fun doing it. Any advice would be appreciated, and sorry for the long message: It's my first post !

 

WELCOME!!! you will enjoy this place, its filled with good people and tons of info!

well that INTAKE (you siad exhaust) manifold is a good choice, i have it on my 350 with no problems.

for your carb, go here https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/quadrajet.shtml

i also suggest you get a B hanger from summit or jegs, and DR rods which you can pick up from a local GM dealer.

for your distributor, id jet get a set of new plugs (8mm or larger), a new cap, rotor, and coil (i suggest hypertech's kit. its only 70 bucks for the cap coil and rotor) and that should be good for that, but if you want you can get an ignition box like a MSD, accel 300+, or crane hi 6s.

you can always pull the cam out and put an emmisions leagal cam in there. go here https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124042
thats got some good info as well

 

Welcome to the board! For carburetor upgrades, read this article from the Tech Articles section of this site, it pretty much covers everything. As far as the distributor, about the only thing I really thought was worth changing was the ignition control module. The Accel unit I have really smoothed out the top end. You could buy an aftermarket ignition coil and better spark plug wires, but in my opinion the price vs. gain is not worth it (you can do a search on this to get different opinions, it's been discussed many times). Make sure you replace the cap, rotor, and spark plugs, maybe the spark plug wires also if they are not in very good shape.

 

hey, you beat me

 

do i hear a echo?? lol, jk.

if you really want to upgrade to an ignition box, check ebay. i got a used MSD 6A that looks new, MSD wire harness for my car, and the MSD shock mounts for only 108 bucks. THATS A DEAL!!

check your plugs and replace if needed. make sure you gap them right, there is a sticker under your hood that tells you what to put them at. if you get a high out put coil, and ignition box, then you can gap it to .055 if you wanted to.

id also buy some carb cleaner and spray it all up in your carb.
your next gas tank id buy some fuel system cleaner also.
should change the fuel filter in the carb as well.

since your under the hood you can check for vacume leaks with the carb cleaner, or a UNLIGHT propane tourch.(id just replace all the vacume lines!!)

 

The unit I was referring to is a 7-pin module that replaces the stock module, costs about $50. I'm not sure that a whole new ignition box would be much better. Also listen for any sounds that your car makes while driving that might be indicative of a problem, and post the gas mileage.

 

Wow! Thanks everybody for the quick responses! I took a read of the carb section. It seems as though my stock carb isn't too bad. Let's see, it's a pretty high mileage car - 184K - mainly freeway miles (according to the owner). And the reason I basically got it free was that the previous owner messed up a starter replacement and the flex plate had to be replaced (and the starter). As for what I've done so far, I just replaced a stock fuel pump (and the fuel line hoses as well), put on a new Borg-Warner cap and rotor, and some standard wires. I'll probably upgrade the wires and put some new plugs in when I get everything back together. I also just got a new Accel HEI coil (#140003). I'll definitely replace the vacuum lines. And since I'm going to be there anyways, I'll put on some "pretty" valve covers. I had a giant crack in the vapor canister and replaced it as well as the hoses and control valve. I also got a new thermostat housing and replaced the coolant temperature sensor and EFE vacuum switch (they wouldn't come out of the old housing). It looks like I'll have to replace the purge vacuum switch as well, because it's stuck on the INTAKE manifold. I've never removed a carb before (or distributor). Any advice on this would be cool. I've started disassembling the hoses and wires (labeling everything). Thanks!

Joe

 

mark where your distributor is, take off the cap, then mark where the rotor is. when you put it back, make sure it all lines up!! taking a carb off is easy. just take all the hoses and wire connections off. make sure you label everything and/or take pics. then just take the 4 bolts off and take the carb off. you may have to wedge a screw driver under it to pry it off the manifold. then clean it up while its off. this is a good time to change the filter in there as well if you havent done so already.

 

Rather than prying with a screwdriver, try using a rubber mallet to knock the carburetor loose. Using a screwdriver could damage the mating surface of the carb.

 

You can mark where the distributor clamp is with respect to the distributor body, but the timing should be set after you replace the intake manifold and get it all running again.

I'd highly recommend replacing both the coil and distributor module. The 7-pin Accel module cost me a little over $65, I haven't found it for less. The coil you got and the module work well together (that's what I've got now).

Exhaust is a big restriction on our cars, as is the stock single-snorkel air cleaner. Even if you don't replace the cam, doing those things will make a big difference. But, the cam is a pretty bad piece in the LG4 engine (VIN H), and if you're looking for any kind of performance, it should be replaced. Without the other things, though, cam replacement would be a waste.

If you haven't ordered it yet, the Edelbrock manifold isn't quite as good as the Weiand Action +. But, if it's already on order and on the way, the Edelbrock will be fine.

Hmmm, if you're passing this on to your son, who I assume is a teenager, you'd better stick with the lower-performance modifications like you already have planned. I still think the ignition module is a good idea along with the coil, though.

 

Thanks to everyone!
I appreciate the advice. What cam (emissions legal) would be recommended? And yes, my son is 16 now. By the time he gets this car, he will be 17. I'll definitely pick up the ignition module. I just took a peek at the link for cheap performance upgrades. It looks like Flowtech headers will work. I am trying to keep everything emissions legal. Where would I get a dual-snorkel air cleaner for this car (is this emissions legal?)? Thanks again.

 

dont buy one...MAKE one https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...lsnorkel.shtml

 

Summit has it for $50.

Most of the parts for the emissions legal dual-snorkel air cleaner are no longer available from GM, so you'd either have to make one or find one off of an L69. You could also go with an open-element, which wouldn't pass inspection but it only takes about 2 and a half minutes to swap the old one back on.

 

I could swear that 7-pin module was $70 in Summit last fall when I got mine (elsewhere). Perhaps they lowered their price since then.

The Crane Powermax computer-compatible cams are pretty nice. At least, I like mine. You may want to get a mid-level flat-tappet version, rather than the biggest/baddest like I got.

 

well since were talkin about cams, i was thinkin bout getting a bigger one. i dont know the specs on mine, but it is a mild cam that will pass emissions, but i want more power, so i want the biggest emissions/computer cam possible for my 350..which one you suggest, and will i have to change springs, lifters and all that fun stuff?

 

Any suggestions on a good open-element air filter? This won't affect the ECM, will it?

 

no it wont effect the ECM...and for what brand of filter..K&N all the way!

 

I'm happy with the K&N filter I have. I don't have the stock hood, so I don't know what height filter will clear (you might do a search to get that info). I picked up an Edelbrock 14" open element chrome air cleaner from Autozone for about $30, i think it came with a 2.5" tall paper air filter. The ECM isn't advanced enough to notice the extra air, nor does it have any way of knowing what air cleaner is on top of the engine. You'll need a vacuum cap to cap off the vacuum port on the carburetor that supplies the THERMAC (your stock air cleaner) with vacuum. Autozone sells vacuum caps in an assorted pack of different sizes, just buy the pack and see which one fits. Just disconnect that small vacuum hose, plug off the port, disconnect the PCV elbow on the passenger side from the filter in the air cleaner, unscrew the air cleaner, and pull it and everything attached to it off, including the heat stove duct (aluminum thing on driver's side exhaust manifold). Don't worry about that big hole right there, it just directs outside air over the exhaust manifold. That edelbrock air cleaner has provisions for the PCV elbow (more or less), so you can either rig that up or replace the elbow with a breather.