I still haven't figured this out and finding someone in Arizona tht knows what they are doing is damn near impossible. So here's what I did.

I pulled the manifold and changed it over to a performer rpm, then threw a performer series 650cfm on top of it (for tune-less puproses).

I took out the stock distributor and went HEI. Had my brother help with the installation of that, it's in and pretty.

Waited a week for my Mallory AFPR to come in, installed it nicely, but without a gauge cause I forgot to order it. Plugged the hole for the gauge, and attached all fuel lines and vaccums to the carb.

Changed the starter solenoid just in case it wasn't VATS that was annoying me before the swap (Almost as annoying as dropping the tank after installing flowmasters last year).

Decided to see if it would turn over while waiting for my gauge to come in. It didn't.

Played with various VATS issues. Nothing seemed to work.

Now I'm going to go check the starter stuff under the car again. Make sure all my connections are on and strong.

Questions for you folks are what else should I try? Did I do something wrong? I also was foggy on the cables from the TBI that i need to transfer to the carb. I got the top two fine, but what exactly does the third one do? Where does it go, etc. Include anything else that might be important. I'm just a lil' guy trying to work on cars, but they don't want to behave! thanks for your time guys.

 

Wrong pic.

Yeah I know it's messy, shut up.

 

Congrats on the baby. (My younger daughter is 19 - I'm starting to feel old all of a sudden...)

I don't know the answer to your basic question - the starter doesn't do anything, correct? I'm not a VATS-type at all. I'd be tempted to run new copper for the entire system in that situation. At least make sure everything's hooked up correctly for starters (ew, bad pun; none-in-ten-did).

As for the race car part: Not with all that rubber fuel line, it's not. 6" total max allowed (by NHRA, at least).

Cables: I assume you mean throttle cables. Bottom = transmission throttle valve - for the sake of your transmission's life, you really, really need to get that hooked up properly before you try to drive the car.

 

Hey I did the same thing you did and had the same problem! USe the old screwdriver on the starter and see if it will kick over. if it does its not on that end. I ended up going into the drivers kick panel and by-passing the starter relay and it started up just fine.Let me know if I can be of any more help



Brian

 

Yeah it's not going to be a REAL race car, just something fast to play around with for a while, then I'm going to sell it. It's more of a frustrating project right now.

Going to try good old mr. screwdriver (if i can fit in between the exhaust and the ground) and see if I can get something.

How do you hook up that bleeping tranny cable?

 

Oh yeah, I tried to bypass that freaking SER and VATS like twenty different ways and no luck.

 

hey there... i just did the same thing... i have the edelbrock performer intake #2101 and the edel 600cfm carb # 1406 and an hei distributor... for all those cables one is kickdown... another is throttle and other is cruise control... for me now i just wanted to make sure it was done right so i ordered part # 1484... its a braket attachment for your cruise to bolt up ... and i got #8030 its the braket that will hold all 3 of those cables in there proper spots... the braket will have adjusters on it to get them set right but it will have them in the general place where you will want them.... as for the car not startin i'm not sure on that... nice pic of the motor she looks pretty good... if you don't have to worry about emissions i'd do away with all that smog pump **** ... thats what i did and it sure has the motor cleaned up... good luck on your project... i know its not easy to do... to order those parts go to anyone who sells edelbrock crap.. i ordered mine of www.martelbrothers.com the braket is like 40$ the cruise is 20$ good luck....

 

Thanks bro, but one problem. My car doesn't have, and never did have, cruise. Will the bracket work the same way though? It was the cable that was on the TBI, in a bracket and the head was over a "nut" that came out from the TBI. The thing was so brittle that when I pulled it off, the end broke in half. I'll take a picture later.

 

woo.... 3 linkages and no cruise control.... my tbi had 3 cables and one was throttle one kickdown the other cruise.... my cruise was a long oval shaped one that would slide back and forth so to say....

sorry i can't help you out more on that... 3 cables and you don't got cruise... you got me there... maybe someone else on the forum has an idea... sorry i cna't help ya more good luck though...lemme know how it turns out and what that 3rd cable is

 

Throttle and TV come in from the firewall, cruise comes in from the front of the car. If your third cable comes from the radiator area it is cruise. Just because it doesn't have a cruise control switch doesn't mean the car wasn't equipped with it once.

 

As for the starter, I would remove VATS and rewire the starter the old fashion way. Gonna do that myself.

 

lets get back to basics on the starter! Did you try to jump it with a screwdriver. Do you have voltage at the starter realy. I did just what was said above I made a jumper and removed the entire relay.



Brian Felts

 

nathan, does that carb # 1406 have a mechanical secondary?

 

To bypass VATS: measure the resistance across the metal portion of the chip in your ignition key. Then, being as creative as you can be, get as close to that resistance as humanly possible (1/4 watt resistors should suffice), I got a handfull of cards of resistors from radioshack, picked the ones I needed for my bypass, soldered them in a straight line most to least resistance ( that shouldn't matter, it's just me), then made "S" bends in the line of resistors so they would fit into a small project box (about the size of a car alarm remote control). I left two leads of regular braided wires hanging out of one end which were internally soldered to each end of the resistance. Then I cut the orange vats wire under the steering column. This is actually two wires- one going to lock cylinder, one returning to vats module. The resistance is the same either way, so it doesn't matter which wire hooks up to which lead. Hook one lead from bypass box to one wire, hook the other lead up to the other wire. Solder your connections and tape well, then secure the project box to the steering column. This will fix your VATS, if Vats is your problem. Costs under $20.00 if you don't have so much as a soldering iron or electrical tape, but that beats $700.00 from the dealership ($300.00 to diagnose, $300.00 for parts, and $100.00 for their beer fund).

 

hey trickie.... man I'm your average person so to say... I know some **** about cars and can actually talk like a motor head but in other departments of mechanics I look like a retard and couldn't even tell you what part of the car your talking about.... when you said does your 1406 have a secondary ... ?? whatever you said ........

what exactly do you mean... ?? Kinda gettin in over my head... may sound pretty bad if i'm clueless here but i'm still in the learning process... sorry can't answer that question.... wanna clue me in on what i'm lookin for so i can answer that... thx


vetter

 

The Update:

There was a flood under my car thanks to a dumb@$$ neighbor leaving his hose on in his ROCK LANDSCAPE YARD WHILE ON VACATION. So I haven't got under there to check my starter connection crap.

I built that cool VATS connector a while ago and tried it with no luck. I dont know if i'm putting it in wrong or what. Everyone here "knows" how to do it, but no one is clear on exactly how to do it!

So with that said, when you find the orange sheathed wire set under your steering column, do you: [A] cut both wires and insert the resistor(s); [B] cut one wire and insert the resistor(s); or [C] What the hell are you talking about Tru89RS?

I've messed with all that crap and I'm still lost. When I turn my key, the little thing under the kick-panel starts to make this clicking sound, it always has, but in the past, I've just had to push the key in harder for it to start. Now it just clicks for a while when I try to start the car, and eventually does nothing. Any insight?

This was a past thread I was interested in also. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=tru89rs Will I have to re-wire my fuel pump for any action? Or is that just optional?

here's another post i made about the starter enable relay/vats stuff. read up on it and pleeeeeeaaase help me out. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=locust You guys have seriously been awesome. As you can see from my past threads, people get annoyed and stop posting. that sucks, but you don't so keep the suggestions coming! Thanks!

 

if you remove the left side kick panel in front pof the door you will find the STARTER CUTOUT RELAY........if you are not using vats you need to jumper around this protection......other wise no power will be applied to the starter solenoid.

 

What did you do about your intank pump, leave it in on take it out? I'm doing a TBI to carb swap now and got a Holley blue pump, but will it pull fuel through my intank pump?

 

hey... you have a holley blue pump.... you sure... what you probably have is a holley regulator... goes right on your fuel line... it will be a little sucker and it regulates that amount of fuel your electric pump is pushin.... its not a pump itself.... and no mechanical pumps usually will not pump through the electric one.... so if your doing a tbi to carb switch i recommend leaving that electric pump in there so you don't hafta mess with the gas tank at all and buying a mallory 4309 fuel pressure regulator.... easiest part of my tbi to carb switch over... available at any parts house distributor.... Mallory Ignition is the company name.... part number 4309 3 port return style fuel pressure regulator... its a must...



Vetter

 

you will regret that edelbrock carb. should have used a holley, every edel. carb ive had has needed constant tuning and theyre never right. thats after three of them. switched to a holley adjusted it one time and never touched it again. and the car ran a crap load better with the vaccuum secondaries.

 

so nick, you prefer vaccuum secondaries? why?

 

if youre mashing the throttle on a mech. sec. carb youre forcing the engine to take it all when it may not be ready for it. on the other hand if you mash the throttle on a vacuum sec. carb the engine takes it as it wants it. a mech. sec carb seems to hesitate where as a vac. sec. carb is smooth in operation. these are just my personal experiences. i feel street driven cars respond better to vac. sec. carbs.

 

Hay Nathan2003 No its a Holley Blue Pump 110gph got it from Summit for $110 it did come with a reg though. The in-tank pump is bad now thats why I got the Holley pump since im switching to a carb soon.

 

hey chevypower, thanks for straightening that up for me... man have fun puttin that sucker in.. i don't know crap about those gas tanks all i know is that i really wouldn't and don't wanna mess with them... thats definatly not my area of expertice... well good luck on your exchange... if you have any questions lemme know... i'm no expert but i've expierianced the switch over and know some things now about how much fun it really isn't... that is if you have as many screw ups as i seemed to be having... talk to you later man... peace..



Vetter

 

I put a 600 CFM Edelbrock on a 305. It started right up, and ran great. Were those 3 new carbs or 3 used ones?

 

thats why edelbrock carbs have an airvalve so even though they are mechanical secondaries they still do not see any air until the engine is MORE than ready for it (the stock airvalve is super conservative)
Ive run several kinds of induction and there is nothing wrong with edelbrock carburetors that doesnt extend to just carburetors in general. Alot of benefits too. So you might want to educate yourself on how carburetors work in the first place before you make sweeping comments like that

btw time below is with an edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carb, 75/47 rods, 104 primary jets, 98 secondaries, no choke, much lighter air valve. Top hole pump shot, .035 shooter. Nothing else

 

i do know how a carb works. all 3 of mine were new 2 600s 1 750, all junk. if the edel., carter, thermoquad, was a good design, then you would see more of them on race cars, and you would see more super tuner companies use them(barry grant etc.). but no, no one builds a really high performance carter design, they all use the holley design to work from. i dont recall ever seeing a seriously fast car (10s) with a carter design, its always a holley or quadrajet. i will alter my statement and say,IMHO, that a street car with an automatic tranny will perform better with vac secondaries.