locking the torque converter
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Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
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From: Iowa
Car: Z28
Engine: 310
Transmission: 700R4
locking the torque converter
Alright I did a search about switching carbs and it said that I would need to lock the torque converter clutch. I'm not really sure what this means, I've never done it on my car. What happens if I don't do it and what difference does it make if I do?
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 386
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From: Edmonton AB Canada
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Normally torque converters will slip (engine side spinning slightly faster than trans side) even at a steady cruise.
However, late-model converters have a clutch that locks the input and output together, eliminating the slip and increasing fuel efficiency and reducing the temperature of the trans fluid. I believe the clutch is electrically operated.
I don't see the need to get involved with the torque converter clutch when you change carbs.
If you never lock the converter up your cruise RPM will be slightly higher than before and your gas mileage could drop a bit, also you will be heating your trans fluid up more - that could be a serious issue depending on the circumstances.
If you never unlocked the clutch the engine would lurch to a stop when you stopped at a red light, it would be like leaving a manual gearbox in gear and not releasing the clutch when you stopped the car.
However, late-model converters have a clutch that locks the input and output together, eliminating the slip and increasing fuel efficiency and reducing the temperature of the trans fluid. I believe the clutch is electrically operated.
I don't see the need to get involved with the torque converter clutch when you change carbs.
If you never lock the converter up your cruise RPM will be slightly higher than before and your gas mileage could drop a bit, also you will be heating your trans fluid up more - that could be a serious issue depending on the circumstances.
If you never unlocked the clutch the engine would lurch to a stop when you stopped at a red light, it would be like leaving a manual gearbox in gear and not releasing the clutch when you stopped the car.
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 386
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From: Edmonton AB Canada
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
I would imagine that you can simply disconnect the electric lock-up clutch on your existing torque converter if you want to disable the lock-up.
Just keep in mind that the converter is slipping continuously if the clutch is disabled and you risk heating the trans fluid up considerably, depending on the combination and where/how you're driving. The factory transmission cooler isn't large enough to cool a constantly slipping or loose converter.
You can watch the trans temp with a guage.
Who knows, you may like the way the car drives without the lock-up.
I think B&M used to make an under-dash switch that would let you mess with the converter clutch.
Just keep in mind that the converter is slipping continuously if the clutch is disabled and you risk heating the trans fluid up considerably, depending on the combination and where/how you're driving. The factory transmission cooler isn't large enough to cool a constantly slipping or loose converter.
You can watch the trans temp with a guage.
Who knows, you may like the way the car drives without the lock-up.
I think B&M used to make an under-dash switch that would let you mess with the converter clutch.
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 350 Crate
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Most TH-350 don't have lock up converters. There are some that do, they are called TH-350C.
I assume you have a 700R4 now. You can lock up the converter manually by just running a switch into the car.
But if you're switching to a non CC carb, this is the least of your worries. I assume you know that from the other posts you've read.
I assume you have a 700R4 now. You can lock up the converter manually by just running a switch into the car.
But if you're switching to a non CC carb, this is the least of your worries. I assume you know that from the other posts you've read.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 3
From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Rustydawg
I believe the clutch is electrically operated.
I believe the clutch is electrically operated.
Just picking nits...

Also, most transmissions can NOT lock in first gear. The hydraulic path isn't there. So the "lurch to a stop and stall" can't really happen. You might get some lurching if your trans can lock in 2nd... but also keep in mind, factory installed, the TC solenoid is unlocked when the brake pedal is depressed.
I can flip the "lock" switch on my TH250C and it has ZERO affect on the transmission until it shifts into 3rd gear.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
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From: Iowa
Car: Z28
Engine: 310
Transmission: 700R4
what about this?
well I was doing some reading and I found that the S10 torque converters work with the 700R4, I was wondering if anyone knows what year S10s have the "L35" converter.
Thanks
Thanks
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Supreme Member
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
ask for a 1998 S-10 with a 4.3L engine code "W" if asked. 2 wheel drive.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Huntington, West Virginia
Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
I had the same problem. After I installed my Holley, my TC didn't lock up. I wired a switch to my dash so I can manually control it. It works great. I think there is are instructions on how to do it somewhere in the technical articles.
1985 Camaro Z28 305, LG69, Holley 4160 w/ man choke, man TC lockup, gutted cat, K&N Filter, no egr, no smog, coconut air freshener.
1985 Camaro Z28 305, LG69, Holley 4160 w/ man choke, man TC lockup, gutted cat, K&N Filter, no egr, no smog, coconut air freshener.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 30
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From: Junction city ,Ks.
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: stock LG4 305
Transmission: 700R4
I`ve been looking into removing the CC carb and distributor on my `83 TA. It has the 700r. Does it also have a locking convertor? This is one of the wiring problems I noticed when researching the whole computer removal process, what to do if I have a locking converter.
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 2
From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
Originally posted by bigswede
I`ve been looking into removing the CC carb and distributor on my `83 TA. It has the 700r. Does it also have a locking convertor? This is one of the wiring problems I noticed when researching the whole computer removal process, what to do if I have a locking converter.
I`ve been looking into removing the CC carb and distributor on my `83 TA. It has the 700r. Does it also have a locking convertor? This is one of the wiring problems I noticed when researching the whole computer removal process, what to do if I have a locking converter.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by 305sbc
Yes you do have a locking converter. You'll need a pressure switch installed in the tranny and you'll need to run ign 12v to one wire on the harness (usually purple).
Yes you do have a locking converter. You'll need a pressure switch installed in the tranny and you'll need to run ign 12v to one wire on the harness (usually purple).
Last edited by StngKlr; Feb 11, 2004 at 07:32 PM.
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