Car stalls when put in gear
Car stalls when put in gear
Just completed my engine rebuild (350 bored 0.040), installed a Doug Herbert .504 solid cam, and a set of 300 HP double humps. Carb is a holley 650 DP, and the tranny is a th350,HEI distributor.
Computer controls nothing anymore.
Currently testing the car on open headers (1 5/8"tubes, 3" primaries)
Car sounds mean as can be at idle (having trouble getting it to idle all too well, but fairly certain that's due to the cam, will idle at about 1200 rpm).
Timing is adjusted to 38* @2000rpm
When you put the car in gear, it dies....if you rev it while you put it in gear (including reverse) you can keep it going and it'll move but the second you come off the gas...it dies....restarts right away, but almost acts like it's flooded cause takes a couple turns......
Anyone with ideas on cause and easy fix, I'd appreciate it...
Thanks in advance
Computer controls nothing anymore.
Currently testing the car on open headers (1 5/8"tubes, 3" primaries)
Car sounds mean as can be at idle (having trouble getting it to idle all too well, but fairly certain that's due to the cam, will idle at about 1200 rpm).
Timing is adjusted to 38* @2000rpm
When you put the car in gear, it dies....if you rev it while you put it in gear (including reverse) you can keep it going and it'll move but the second you come off the gas...it dies....restarts right away, but almost acts like it's flooded cause takes a couple turns......
Anyone with ideas on cause and easy fix, I'd appreciate it...
Thanks in advance
You didn't say anything about the torque converter. Unless you have at least a 10" with a 3,000 stall you're gonna have problems.
Also, you may need to do a power valve swap in the carb. With the low idle vacuum, the carb is tossing in extra fuel since the vacuum at idle is way too low for a stock number valve.
If you can change the curve in the distributor, try to set it for about 14 degrees initial and about 34~36 degrees total at 3,000 rpm.
This will also bring up the idle capability a bit.
Also, you may need to do a power valve swap in the carb. With the low idle vacuum, the carb is tossing in extra fuel since the vacuum at idle is way too low for a stock number valve.
If you can change the curve in the distributor, try to set it for about 14 degrees initial and about 34~36 degrees total at 3,000 rpm.
This will also bring up the idle capability a bit.
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With the big cam, it needs a higher idle not to mention less power available at that rpm to support the load of the trans in gear.
The converter is trying to pull the engine down to around 800 rpm.
Try idling it at 800 in neutral and you'll see that it's struggling if not impossible to do and this is without a load.
How did you choose this cam and research anything else that has to be modified?
Just curious.
The converter is trying to pull the engine down to around 800 rpm.
Try idling it at 800 in neutral and you'll see that it's struggling if not impossible to do and this is without a load.
How did you choose this cam and research anything else that has to be modified?
Just curious.
the car is primarily used for an 1/8 mile drag car, and was recommended by a friend....
It's listed in the Doug Herbert catalog as thier most popular street/strip grind.......
Like I said may have the duration #'s wrong....
It's listed in the Doug Herbert catalog as thier most popular street/strip grind.......
Like I said may have the duration #'s wrong....
Yes, you need the correct converter.
What gear are you running? With all that cam it may be time for a change.
Carb tuning.
Rejetting will be in order and probably a new pair of power valves.
Advance curve.
What's the initial timing?
You'll probably have to get in the distributor and juggle the curve a bit.
What gear are you running? With all that cam it may be time for a change.
Carb tuning.
Rejetting will be in order and probably a new pair of power valves.
Advance curve.
What's the initial timing?
You'll probably have to get in the distributor and juggle the curve a bit.
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