Not too long ago someone asked about getting the pump lever pin out (it's too late & I'm too lazy to look for the thread). The advice given was just to drive it towards the center of the carb, which is what I've always done, and what the carb kit I opened up today said to do.

However, that didn't cut it in my case. See pic below (sorry for the lack of focus, my camera doesn't do macro very well). The pin had a chamfered head on it, which was to the outside, so it could not be driven in. There was a very small rolled pin holding it from coming out. The only way I could get the pivot pin out was to bust up the small pin and then grab ahold of the pivot pin with a small sheet metal screw.

I'd never seen this before, thought you all might find it interesting.

There were a couple of other surprises. But, in the "true confessions" department, this is the first time I've had a CC q-jet apart...

 

The carb had been apart before, although it still had the pop rivets holding the choke thermostat. Apparently the previous disassembler had heard about well plugs leaking and epoxied over the primaries and secondaries. The secondary job looked fine, but the primary epoxy looked like it had been burnt to a crisp.

 

I've seen this in mechanical q-jets, and heard about it with CC's - here's what I found when I pulled the airhorn off. Not sure how much this affected the way it ran before, but they're back in the airhorn where they belong now. I just started up the rebuilt ZZ3 shortblock with my old 305 fixin's, so I don't have a real before & after comparison, but it sure seems to run nicely with the short drive I took it on this evening. The IAB actually affected MCS dwell, even!

 

Hm, interesting. It might have been me asking, I dont remember. I know I asked what the replacement pin was for when I was going through my own kit... I'm sort of glad now.

Oh, and Sonix has a different way to do it, iirc. He somehow pulls it out away from the carb I think..

 

My kit didn't have a replacement pin, either for the pivot or the retaining pin. I guess I'm going to have to keep my eye on it until I'm confident that it isn't working itself out - or find another pin to replace the retaining pin.

 

I'm guessing that the previous rebuilder removed the roll pin and installed the rivet-type pin in its place. I don't have a spare E4ME right now, but from memory, you should be able to use a 0.125 roll pin M2.5 cap screw and double nut to lock the screw in place. A really cool customization would be to clearance drill the outer hole in the air horn casting and pump lever, and tap the rear (inboard) hole for a 5/40 or 2.5 mm cap screw with a shoulder. Cut off the excess screw thread and allow the pump arm to pivoit on the straight shoulder of the screw.

 

I don't think the previous disassembler removed the pivot pin, actually, which even though it has a chamfered head, is still a roll pin. The small retaining pin was also roll type. They looked very untouched and factory installed.

The other hints that it had been disassembled were the removal of the IAB cover and the idle mixture screw plugs. Internally, didn't see any particular evidence other than the epoxy, which required removal of the TB, at a minimum.

 

I don't recall seeing any instructions about it in the kit, but I assume the aluminum plug, which I placed beside the lean stop adjustment hole, goes into said hole when you're happy with the adjustments. Either it, or the short version contained in the kit (two large, like the one here, one small plug were in the kit).

 

Done zillions of 'em.

The cc-QJets (most of them) use that different type of accelerator arm pivot pin. Gotta drive out the little retaining dowel and then yank the pin from the front. It's a toss-up whether it's easier to yank the accelerator pump arm and drop the TPS plunger dowel in from above or to simply insert it from below and hold it in place with some stiff grease while you drop the airhorn on. I usually do the latter.

Those brass tubes you found down in the carb's secondary fuel wells are the secondary pull-over enrichment system. Basically a secondary accelerator pump system. You will notice a BIG change in throttle response when you open the secondaries now that they're back where they belong.

I don't even put all the adjustment plugs back in when I'm done. First off, who cares? Second, some of them can be too long and not insert all the way without hitting and bending the adjustement screws inside the carb! Major PITA. Leave 'em out unless you're super **** about stuff like that or drive in dusty conditions.

 

Being outside of the air cleaner, I think I'd be more comfortable with the plug in there. It wasn't there when I took it apart, and there was a little bit of crude in the bowl. I just dropped the new plug in, didn't drive it in. May do so later.

I did have a CC dual-jet apart back in the early 90's. I don't recall the pivot pin being different than the old mechanical q-jets. But, memory has faded, I'm sure.

 

I'm about 500 miles away from that test.

 

WHAT??? holy crap, and i've been taking your advice too!



I thought cc-qjets had a smaller pin in the rod, at the 90* bend, and you could just easily remove that, and leave the lever in place....

Yea, I use a 1" long nail, bent 90* with a screw driver to pry the *normal q-jet* roll pin outwards, because once I tried pushing one inwards, and it bottomed against the airhorn and the lever was still stuck on it... (like it was a longer roll pin or something...) and it was impossible to push back outwards, so I had to dremel it in half... luckily the rebuild kit had a new one, but anyway, now I just push them outwards.... Well that was pretty off topic.....

Damon: Those brass tubes are the same as the ones in a non-cc correct? just in the non-cc they're straight down and longer?

 

Search all you want about what I've said about CC q-jets, I have never discussed the guts - at least, not in detail.

I did have to get into the secondaries a little to get the GM crate break-in recommended high throttle 5000 RPMs. Funny, the 305 seemed to get to 5 grand fairly easily on just the primaries. As Damon predicted, it picked up on the secondaries immediately.

No WOT yet. Time will tell.

 

Hopefully that just means that the new engine is drawing in a little more volume at 5000 RPM.

 

 

I think the other function of the little aluminum plugs is to fit snuggly around the adjustment pins to ensure they do not rotate once they are set. I put my lean stop plug back because i thought the lean stop adjustment rotated fairly easily.

my 2 cents,