So I got a new stock replacement closed loop emission q-jet, and it totally solved my problem of my car running shitty. I was working on it before work, put the new base gasket on, hooked everything up, and started it for a brief 20 seconds before rushing off to work, and it ran GREAT!

I come home today to follow up, because it was idling at 2500 in park completely cold, so I was going to let it warm up to WOT and set the idle, or at least see if i could, i probably have a vac. leak somewhere. This is where I run into my dilema. The car starts, and its running shiiiiiity, like it did after i got it from a shop a few weeks ago after itd been sitting. It sounded like half the cylinders were mis-firing and stuff, so i was like wtf and shut it off. After I had looked over things on the carb, i remember how it did that before, and the guy their just sat thier and revved it till it ran right, so I figured I'd start it back up and see if I could do the same.

I go to turn the key, and it wont start. I try again, no start. I try again, and I turn the key off, and it just keeps trying to start, im like wtf and im getting scared cuz my starter wont stop. I put the key back in, frantically move it around and it finally stops. I figure I flooded it and leave it alone for an hour

Hour Later

Try it again, same problem with it not starting and starter sticking.

My Question: Ignition Switch? When I put the key in with the door open, the door alarm intermittently works, if i slightly move the key it will, then wont, willlll wont, etc. I remember reading an article back some time about how a guys went out and it made it to where his car wouldnt start. Is this my case? Would my starter even engage? Could it just be loose wire? I'm not really an expert on ignition switchs, being a beginner mechanic, help needed

 

You should definatly be looking at a new ignition switch. Sounds like the thing is sticking and when it isn't its just plain unreliable. For sure it would make your car run poorly if the ignition keeps cutting in and out. Not to mention the detonation thats going to happen when this happens at high rpm.

 

So I went out today and got the 4 drivers side spark plugs in, tested the wire and their IS spark. I check the carburetor, gas is being sprayed in.. I put a new fuel filter in, i start it... it runs? WTF. It ran shitty but i let it sit thier and run till it smoothed out, no clue why it was like that.

So I take it around the corner just to see how good its running, and I had my hood bungie corded down for it not being able to latch w/o the fan rubbing (long story), and it flys up and gets bent all to hell. So um, yea, fix it again, ANOTHER thing goes wrong.

Im ****ing cursed

At least my moms b/f has a rally sport hood, black like my car, in his garage. I guess thats kinda lucky

 

Sounds like your choke needs to be adjusted and your ignition switch needs to be replaced. There's a tech article on this site tightening the tilt steering column that can get you to the ignition cylinder. The steering wheel puller and lock plate compressor can be "borrowed" at AZ or the equivalent.

Need to use the bungie cord AND duct tape to hold the hood down.

 

The attached contains the "text book" adjustments required on the carb. Most of them can be done without the "special" tools the text refers to. Still an OK reference anyway.

 

i turned the idle screw all the way down yesterday and it was still at 1500 in nuetral, so I imagine I still have yet another vacuum leak.

 

Get a set of caps and plug EVERY port on your carb then check again to make sure EVERY port is plugged (even the little line that runs to the break near the MCS). Fire it up and see. If it's still high, we'll go from there.

 

see i thought thats how you did it, but when talking to my dad he said thats not going to do it because you'd also have to plug off all the lines and yea, idk, if i drive it say... 5 miles, shut it off for a couple hours, and start it again, it starts instantly, and i mean instantly, and is at basically 1g, and in drive drops down to about 800, but when i stop in drive after driving its at like 1200. if i let it sit a day, it takes ... 15 seconds about to start it, but i'm pretty sure thats because my choke cable clip broke and it isnt closing the choke right lol. but it'll idle at like 2000-2200 when i start it after being parked for a day until it warms up a bit, then its back down.

thats pretty normal I assume??

Also, is their a vacuum line on my Tranny? Its been slipping while shifting, and I figured it was just worn, but my moms b/f said he saw a vacuum line off that looked like it was going to my tranny, and that was probably the reason it wasnt shifting great. I'm getting the rear seal done and prolly putting a new filter in it, so I'll have them check that, but I was just wondering.

 

Once you get your choke fixed your carb will work better. Everything you describe sounds normal for a carb with a broken tab going to the choke plate.

There is no vaccuum line going to your trans, but you may need your TV cable adjusted. It connects to the throttle and runs to the TV valve in your trans and controls shift points. If you're getting your rear seal replaced (I assume on the tranny?) have them adjust the TV cable for you.

Oh yeah, if you plug your vaccuum ports at the carb, don't drive it like that. Don't worry about plugging the lines. Fix your choke first though.

 

i know better than to drive it capped up lol. the choke .. works.. its just the cable that slides onto it, i just need to take the time to go to a junkyard and find a cable and splice it on lol. thiers a guy who works at a shop that always comes in for parts that said he'd do the seal for 30, i'll see if he knows how to adjust the tv cable. i hope thats the problem and not the tranny cuz i wanna fix it and sell it and if the tranny is slippin that'll make ppl go ..