carb and intake
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 (lg4)
Transmission: 700r4 with transgo shift kit
carb and intake
hey i just put a ebelbrock preformer eps intake and a preformer series carb 600 cfm on a lg4 (305) how much horsepowerer and torque can this combo make
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
About 145-155 HP. The power output of the LG4 is not limited by the stock carb/intake set-up.
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 (lg4)
Transmission: 700r4 with transgo shift kit
well what can i do for more power their are no cats and i have shorty headers but thinking of getting headman full length headers but will a catback flowmaster exhast help or what about a new ypipe
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Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
i got shorty headers,y-pipe and 3.5 in flowmaster cat back exhaust and no cat and it did nothing!!!! stupid 305s
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Tell that to the guys running low 13's on a 305, or the guys who runs 12's.
exhaust would be first priority.
Then probably cam, and air cleaner.
exhaust would be first priority.
Then probably cam, and air cleaner.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Those will help later on - the intake especially - but the biggest restriction to a stock LG4 is the exhaust frist, then the cam. The heads and induction are actually quite good for the 305. You can use a larger cam with stock heads, but you'll want to limit the lift to about .450 or so.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
i got a full exhaust, so your saying get the intake carb and cam and how much power will i get from that should i get lifters 2
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
skip the intake and carb - it won't be helping you for quite some time.
If you've got full exhaust (full???), then get a cam (and lifters obviously).
Once it's tuned up right it'll go like crazy.
If you've got full exhaust (full???), then get a cam (and lifters obviously).
Once it's tuned up right it'll go like crazy.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
ya i got full exhaust i got headmen shorty headers 1 3/4,no cat,3.5 pipeing custom y pipe,and a flowmaster 80 series wit 4 in tips
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iTrader: (1)
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
You need to tune your car, that's all that's holding it back.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
wut do u mean by tune (i no i sound dumb but its my first car my first time working on my own car and im only 17 lol) thanks man
Tune, as in setup your carb and timing.
If you've got five hundred dollars in a motor or five grand in a motor, it won't make a difference unless you take the time to tune it properly.
If you do alittle research and looking around, you'd be surprised what you can learn. I'm sure there are plenty of pieces of information on this site that would give you the basics of tuning a motor, let alone the whole internet.
Also, no offense towards you or anything, but when you type messages please do not type as if you're text messaging on a cell phone. You don't get charged per word or letter and I think you'll find out that members will be more willing to help if they can tell what you're saying more clearly.
If you've got five hundred dollars in a motor or five grand in a motor, it won't make a difference unless you take the time to tune it properly.
If you do alittle research and looking around, you'd be surprised what you can learn. I'm sure there are plenty of pieces of information on this site that would give you the basics of tuning a motor, let alone the whole internet.
Also, no offense towards you or anything, but when you type messages please do not type as if you're text messaging on a cell phone. You don't get charged per word or letter and I think you'll find out that members will be more willing to help if they can tell what you're saying more clearly.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Also, no offense towards you or anything, but when you type messages please do not type as if you're text messaging on a cell phone. You don't get charged per word or letter and I think you'll find out that members will be more willing to help if they can tell what you're saying more clearly

anyway...
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
sorry wont do it anymore and i follow everyones advice so u are not wasting any of your time im already on summit looking for parts
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Wow, a lot of action on this thread in just a few short hours.
Let's get back to the beginning. You said you put an intake and carb on an LG4. That's all you said, so the reasonable conclusion was that's all you'd done. Obviously, you've done the exhaust (although Hedman doesn't make 1-3/4" shorties), but even then, the intake and carb didn't do anything to improve power, because the stock intake and carb are good for well over 300 HP, while the intake and carb you put on will probably be good up to a little over 300 HP. {Of course, we really need to understand what measure of HP we're talking about, because the factory 145-155 rating was net flywheel HP, while most talk of HP (such as my 300 HP examples) are gross flywheel HP.}
At any rate, if you go over to the FAQ forum, you'll find a thread that talks about the different 305's the factory offered and what is needed to get better performance out of them. The order goes like this: Exhaust, air cleaner, cam (those alone will get you in the 300 HP gross range), then heads (porting, larger intake and possibly exhaust valves), and finally intake. That is all with the stock carb.
People really need to get it out of their heads that the factory carb is the first thing you change to improve power. It's the last thing. I attached my sig to my original post in the hopes that you would see that it still has the stock LG4 carb on it. HP estimates for the current configuration are somewhere in the 320 net flywheel range to 365 gross flywheel range. That's about 60-75 more with the 350 than it had with the 305 with a slightly different cam, but everything else the same (heads, intake, headers, air cleaner - and, yes, the carb).
In order to see an improvement in power over the stock carb on a 305, you need to be in the nearly unstreetable set-up range - huge cam, big single plane intake, big headers, big port heads, etc. - all things that make it difficult to drive on the street. Even then, you're only looking at a carb that is of a different type than the stock carb, not one that's bigger (and, that Edelbrock carb you put on is actually smaller than the stock carb for total flow, and worse for economy to boot).
I hope you're starting to get the picture here. It's not the 305 that kept the carb replacement from improving power, it's the carb replacement itself that didn't improve power - whether 305, 350, 383, doesn't matter. It wasn't money well spent.
Let's get back to the beginning. You said you put an intake and carb on an LG4. That's all you said, so the reasonable conclusion was that's all you'd done. Obviously, you've done the exhaust (although Hedman doesn't make 1-3/4" shorties), but even then, the intake and carb didn't do anything to improve power, because the stock intake and carb are good for well over 300 HP, while the intake and carb you put on will probably be good up to a little over 300 HP. {Of course, we really need to understand what measure of HP we're talking about, because the factory 145-155 rating was net flywheel HP, while most talk of HP (such as my 300 HP examples) are gross flywheel HP.}
At any rate, if you go over to the FAQ forum, you'll find a thread that talks about the different 305's the factory offered and what is needed to get better performance out of them. The order goes like this: Exhaust, air cleaner, cam (those alone will get you in the 300 HP gross range), then heads (porting, larger intake and possibly exhaust valves), and finally intake. That is all with the stock carb.
People really need to get it out of their heads that the factory carb is the first thing you change to improve power. It's the last thing. I attached my sig to my original post in the hopes that you would see that it still has the stock LG4 carb on it. HP estimates for the current configuration are somewhere in the 320 net flywheel range to 365 gross flywheel range. That's about 60-75 more with the 350 than it had with the 305 with a slightly different cam, but everything else the same (heads, intake, headers, air cleaner - and, yes, the carb).
In order to see an improvement in power over the stock carb on a 305, you need to be in the nearly unstreetable set-up range - huge cam, big single plane intake, big headers, big port heads, etc. - all things that make it difficult to drive on the street. Even then, you're only looking at a carb that is of a different type than the stock carb, not one that's bigger (and, that Edelbrock carb you put on is actually smaller than the stock carb for total flow, and worse for economy to boot).
I hope you're starting to get the picture here. It's not the 305 that kept the carb replacement from improving power, it's the carb replacement itself that didn't improve power - whether 305, 350, 383, doesn't matter. It wasn't money well spent.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Oviedo,Florida
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
im starting to get it now i didnt put the intake and carb on, iwas thinking about it and i have 1 5/8 headers sorry, all i have it a exhaust system thats it if u go to my other thread u can see y im all confused https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...justments.html o and my engine is a 85 lg4
Last edited by xgtharo86x; Oct 3, 2006 at 11:30 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Careful 57, the original poster and xartho are two seperate guys....
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