So I've replaced the CC Q-Jet, and have the wires for the TPS sensor and MCS just sitting there. I am still running the stock dizzy, and would prefer to, since I'm not removing the computer. Is there a way to plug these so that I'm not throwing any codes? If I remove the sensors from the Q-Jet, and plug them back in to the wires, would that be good enough for the computer to not throw codes? Has anyone else done this with success? Please let me know. Thanks

 

Im not an expert when it comes to carbs but I would say that you cant just change your carb and leave the distributor alone. You either have to change it all or not change it at all...unless you want your car to run shi**y all the time.

 

Right, change the distributor or you're going to have miserable performance. Computer control is all or nothing.

 

Ok. So if i do change the distributor, what else would need to be removed?

 

To the best of my knowledge, it has only been speculated and not done yet, but the theory is the ECM couldn't care less whether or not the MCS connector is connected to anything. So, if you rigged up an external throttle position sensor and plugged it in, the ECM will read that signal and make decisions accordingly. The only error codes you would get would be for rich or lean O2 readings. I'm considering that route in order to use a Holley 6210 spreadbore double pumper and retaining the ECM spark and torque converter lock-up control.

However, the demonstrated approach is to put in a vacuum/mechanical advance distributor. The most popular choice is the coil-in-cap HEI type, which can be had for $100-$150 new from various on-line sources. Your current connectors on the cap (Batt & Tach) will fit the new distributor. The now-unused ECM harness and sensors can be removed without cutting anything by disconnecting the harness bundle at the pass-through connector down by the passenger kick-panel, and separating/unbolting everything that goes to the engine compartment. You will have to rig up a means to lock up the torque converter if you go with this option.

But, to answer your question directly, you wouldn't have to remove anything but the SES bulb in the dash.

 

Where can I get an External TPS from? Would O'Reilly have one? Or could I modify the one from the inside of the Q-Jet, and use that one?

 

It was discussed a couple of months ago. Try searching for it. It's a self-contained unit that you make a bracket for and hook to the throttle arm via a chain. I forget where all it was available from, but O-Reilly's is probably one of them.

The TPS from the q-jet would be very difficult to set up externally.

 

I'm not quite sure how your ECM would respond to missing devices. Another CCC-ECM, the 1228330, does the following: if the carbon canister purge solenoid is missing it will set the light and not lock the converter. If the MCS-solenoid is unplugged it will set the light. If the TPS does not provide the expected voltages it will set the light, and it also uses the TPS to unlock the converter when you "step on it". It may even revert to a backup spark curve if the light is set.
So there are many disadvantages to be had, but at least the MCS solenoid can be replaced with a small lamp or resistor (at least 470 Ohms). Even then it could set the light for rich/lean or defective O2 sensor. The TPS is just a potentiometer of around 5000 Ohms, and the ECM expects to get around 0.5V at idle. If you just set it fixed you might get away with it, but I'm quite sure it will throw a code. I would not have kept the original dizzy, it's mostly an all or nothing game with the ECM's, unless you can get a chip programmed "especially for you". Unfortunately few of the CCC-ECM's are hacked though..

 

I do appreciate all the input. I will eventually end up trying the external TPS, but for right now, I need to have the car running, so i just put the old Q-Jet back on. It's a good carb, still ran great with it on there, just throught that i could get more performance with a different carb. Thanks again for all the input.

 

The Q-jet is a nice durable carb that does no worse than any other. The spread-bore makes for both good mileage and power. The secondary is not computer controlled and can easily be tuned. Search this board (and the net) for recommendations on what kind of secondary hanger and rods people use for best power. You just need a small Torx screwdriver to exchange them.

 

Interesting thought Fullsizewagon. I didn't know that those could be changed out. I'll look into getting something better for those.

 

There's a lot more wrong with a 1984 305 than the carb, that is making it not fast. The CCC carb is not what is holding it back, even remotely.

 

explain please, because i happen to have a 84 305 :P

 

yes, 327_TPI_77_Maro, please explain. I never said that it wasn't fast, I just said that I have replaced the carb, going to a non-cc carb.

 

needs better or at least reworked (porting on the intake and exhaust) and a better cam grind. grind used was to provide decent performance and good mileage. you could get decent performance from this motor but would be cheaper to go with a 350 or 400. if you have the money to beef up the 305 you may as well do a 350 build or a bowtie block motor with short stroke big bore.

 

The 80s 305 cams are so small they might as well not have lobes, and be entirely round. The 305 416/081 heads are pretty decent, they aren't a problem until you start making some power. Compression is sooooo looooow. Cam and compression would be a good start. Then the 305 log manifolds. Then the exhaust, the stock Ys are terrible unless you have the bigger 2.25" into 2.75" Y. I have a 305 with a CCCQJet that I rebuilt just because i had it in my trans am. It's pretty funny, it makes more noise than it does propel you forward. I've put about 50 miles on it and I'm going to toss my worked over 327 in there for some more fun factor.

 

327 is a great motor also. definitely props to ya there I am probably just tossing a 350 roller motor in there until I get my bowtie motor all the way finished. car has been sitting about 4 or 5 years now so I definitely have some bugs to work out though.

 

The 327 is a 13 sec motor in my 2nd gen w/ HSR MAF efi, should be peppy in the 3rd gen which is lighter.