My car wants to stall after 1st starting in the morning. Im pretty sure there is no vaccum leak from gaskets, etc.

The choke pull off appears to function fine, although I havent touched the screw on the arm to adjust...is it richer (clockwise) and leaner (CCW)??

After starting and letting idle by feathering the throttle a short bit, everything seems normal after warming.

Has someone had similar experiences with this problem? How did you correct it?

thanks again.

84 TA
305 L69 automatic
52K miles
QJet carb
original except edelbrock intake and flowmasters exhaust

 

I had the same problem for awhile. I just ditched the choke and now i just feather the gas in the morning till it stays running. Neighbors hate me but i like it.

 

Yea, that's not really a solution though is it?
I've posted a handful of times on the q-jet choke. I should really make one really good long detailed post on it, and put a link in my sig...
See if these links help you, they should get you started. Know how the 3 settings on a q-jet choke work, and you're set. That "richer/leaner" BS on the choke thermostat always bugs me... It's more of a duration setting than anything. Anyway, read these links and see if that helps.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ighlight=choke

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ighlight=choke

 

Do you take everything so serious? Looks to me like you need to lighten up

 

I agree with Sonix on this one. It's not really a solution, it's just working with and around the problem. but hey..if the person likes it, it's all good.

 

Thanks much. I will read this over a few times and try out the adjustments in your posts this weekend.

 

if theres no black smoke out the back then it sounds like the choke is too far open when cold

adjut it when its cold, make it so that it is just shut with next to no tension, it will hang up on the fast idle cam so double check after adjusting by opening the throttle by hand a bit to make sure it stays put

it should idle around 1500 or so cold if not then adjust the screw up underneath the choke linkage parts under there so that it does, or idles as fast as you want it to when its cold

there should be a mark on the choke spring element housing and on the aluminum choke housing too, but not always are there, but if there are then they should be somewhat near each other when its close to where it should be

if youre still having problems then the choke may be worn out, or the carb may not be grounded well enough,

the electric choke elements dont last forever, borg warner carries new ones at most auto parts stores, or at least they are packaged in borg boxes


also CCW shuts it and CW opens it BTW on the 4bbl rochesters and carter-made rochesters

good luck

 

I tried what Sonix had listed in the cold start thread. I can see how this may correct my problem. I watched how it worked and it does close the choke plate. However, when i tried it, I noticed the round black "dial" has a factory notch in it to prevent any permanent rotation in either direction. It can only fit in place the way it is now. Is it a bad thing to try and remove the notch and secure the assembly back in place by just the screws and those small metal holding pieces???

 

If the factory notch doesn't cut it, then you either have a weak thermostat, or sticky mechanisms.

 

I am dealing with the same exact problem mbrownone. I bought a new carb thinking that my carb was leaking (that didnot work). After I got the carb installed I got it proffessionaly tuned. I still had the same problem. I called the carb hotline to ask some questions about the carb and he told me it was the evap system causing the problem.