It's true. My carb is so old Holley dosen't make a bracket to connect a detent cable. I purchased the geometry correction bracket for my 750DP from Summit after finding out I needed it by reading posts here. (I love this site) I took it out of the box and read the instructions. (Yes, I actually read them before I tried to install it) It seems my linkage is not the same as every other carb on the planet. The bracket needs a flat surface for mounting and my linkage is stepped; farther out at the top than the bottom making the installation impossible. I called Holley and they told me my carb was so old that they didn't make a bracket for it and told me to buy a new base plate! For those of you with carb experiance or who have used this bracket let me know what you think. I'll try and post a picture when I get home.

 

What's the list #, including the dash #, if any?

I just put a TV correction lever on a 6210-3, no problems with fitment.

 

I went to Holley's site an looked at the linkage on the carb you specified. It's not the same as mine. If you look at the carb standing directly over it you can see that the linkage where the bracket connects is even at the top and the bottom in regards to distance from the main body. On my carb the top of the linkage, where the throttle cable attaches, is farther away from the main body than the bottom of the linkage, where the TV cable would attach. As you know the bracket is flat so I need the top and the bottom to be aligned and they are not. Furthermore the mounting holes on the bracket do not align with those on the linkage so... I'll get that picture up tonight along with the ID numbers and show you what I mean.

 

Do you have a Ford or Mopar specific carb? THat won't have a throttle lever with TV provisions. It will be totally different than the "universal" holley lever you need.

 

Got two numbers. 4779 and 6543. The 6543 only appeared on the metering blocks where as the 4779 appeared on both the metering blocks and the base plate. Here's the pic of the linkage.

 

You don't want those #s. You want the # stamped on the choke air horn. Base plate and metering block #s won't necessarily tell you anything about year or application.

Holleys are so cheap used on Ebay, you are probably better off buying a newer carb that you know what it is. You can pick up a 750 for under $50 and put a $20 kit in it and be done w/ it.

 

A 750 for under 50.00! WHERE!!!!!!!!!!???????????

 

4779 is the "List" number. It should be stamped on the front of the choke tower on the air horn as well. It may or may not have a dash # after it. Interesting that the list # was stamped on the metering blocks and base.

Looks like the old manual transmission linkage. You might be able to find a throttle shaft that you can put in.

Throttle plate or used Holley is probably your best fix. Unless you feel like fabricating.

 

Choke tower is long gone. How about 3752? It's right next to the rear venturi. A new carb is out of the question. This one runs great and is in perfect condition. Just need to hook up an automatic instead of the manual I ran last year.

 

No matter, 4779 is the number. Just curious of the series, that's all.

I know I've seen replacement throttle shafts somewhere, but all I can find on Summit is for 4160 carbs (4779 is 4150).

 

O.K. So it is a 4150 series. I'll look around for replacement shafts. Beats the $150 for the new baseplate.

 

What about this site? http://www.cfiworld.com/everythingca...ttleshafts.htm

Anybody know what I would need? Just the 4150 series throttle shaft?

 

I have purchased several 750s in the $50 range. Crusty and needing rebuild, yes. Complete and fully functional? Yes. Holleys are a dime a dozen if you are willing to rebuild an older carb.

 

Ummm....What? The carb is not broken. The carb is in fact in perfect condition. Why would I buy a new carb, rebuild it, tune it, and risk it not working as well as the heavily modified one on the car now all for the want of the correct throttle linkage? You make no sense. I need advice on either how to modify my exsisting linkage or where to find new linkage that fits my carb and the TV cable bracket not where I can buy a dirt old carb with the correct linkage.

 

Not new, used & cheap.

For the base.

 

Alright there Mr. wrong throttle lever. Since you seem to have this situation under control all on your own here, let us know how that works out.

 

Yeah, for the base, good point. I'll look. Does that site seem to offer the needed equipment?

 

What site, eBay?

 

No. The site I found last night. I believe I put a link to it but it might not have worked. http://www.cfiworld.com/everythingca...ttleshafts.htm

 

They specifically say List 1850 & List 3310. Not sure if your 4779 is the same or not. I'd say get in touch with them and ask.

 

I made some phone calls and it seems ther may be another issues I have to look out for. Supposedly most of the new base plates out there (Proform, Holley..) with the correct linkage, are 4 corner idle plates and I apparently have a 2 corner idle carb. Holley told me it makes a difference and Summit said it doesn't. Summit said it's all in the metering block and Holley said there were paths on the base plate that would effect the idel condition. Who's right?

 

Trust Holley. They make the parts. Summit just sells them. 4 corner idle has idle discharge passages on the secondary side that a 2 corner idle carb won't have.

Why don't you just get an ebay 750 Holley carb? It will have the regular 2 corner idle base plate. This sounds like a lot of unnecessary work to do something as simple as swapping in another used base plate.

 

i have a 750 DP for sale 2 corner idle adjustments,very good shape

 

The base has primary and secondary idle slots whether 2- or 4-corner idle. The difference with 4-corner idle is you have adjustable needle valves on both primary and secondary, where 2-corner idle only has the needle valves on the primaries. It's more than the metering plates, because the air bleeds are different sizes on the primaries vs. secondaries for 2-corner idle, whereas they are the same size for 4-corner idle. In either case, idle fuel/air is supplied by both primaries and secondaries.

I will say that Holley may be right in one respect - the originally 2-corner idle 650 DP I have had very shoddily machined secondary idle slots. Wasn't much of an issue when I was running a 270 duration cam, but when I went to the current XS282, idle was horrible. I was able to at least get it to stay running by picking at the secondary slots with my pocket knife. Now it idles better on the secondaries than on the primaries - going to pull it apart again tomorrow night to see what I can do with the primaries. The point is, maybe they're more careful about the machining of 4-corner-destined throttle bases.

 

327_TPI_77_Maro you're probably right. I've spent too much time on this issue that has a simple fix. Good point five7kid, you would think that the new billet piece would be of a higher quality than the stock Holley piece but who knows.

So here's what I did. Called Summit and ordered a Proform base plate. Got it yesterday. Looked it over and saw it definately was a 4 corner idel base. Said O.K. and went to install it. Just out of curiosity, I took the Holley throttle and TV bracket (not the bracket I am trying to adapt to but the universal throttle and TV bracket for all their carbs) out of the box to see how it would fit. IT DIDN'T!!! The Proform base does not have the channel machined out to fit the alignment prong that stops the bracket from moving side to side! I couldn't even install it without grinding off the tab! Worthless!

I sent it back today and ordered an actual Holley piece for my carb, the 4779. I should have it Friday. I'll let you guys know how it works. Oh yeah, one more thing, Holley said the dashed numbers 4779-6, 4779-7..... just indicate the finish on the carb, such as silver or gold. Does that sound right?

 

The - #s mean revision #s. Sometimes this translates into actual jetting differences. I know the 4160-2, 3, 4 etc had different accelerator pump shooter sizes depending on the revision #. In your case the revisions may mean just the finish changed and everything else is the same. I am not an expert.

Also re:The are transition slots. The idle fuel discharge is provided primarily through through the hole in which each idle screw sits. The transition slots on the secondaries will be entirely covered when the throttle blades are closed-- you'd only "idle" on these if you jacked open the secondary blades to try to remedy having too large of a cam, that provides too weak of a vacuum signal to idle on the primary side alone. Otherwise you should only be idling on the primary barrels of a 2 corner idle carb (hence 2 corner idle)