well I got a used non cc qjet when i did my rebuild...... lg4 .30 over stock alum intake 204 214 mellings cam. jegs hei dizzy.

Tuning hell.
well this is my first rebuild and first carb ive messed with
1. car idles high (1700 rpm in park) kinda low (800-850 in gear)
2. dont have timeing makes so ive done the best i can by ear.
3. before... the choke was messed up and made the car ideal very high(3000 rpm)
4. blocked off choke..
5. notice that the tang was holding the secondaries shut.. now thats out of the way.

The car runs good after all this but still idles weird to me 1700 1800 park 850 in gear when it gets hot it acts like it wants to die alittle at idle in gear but doesnt.

So i decited to check the vacum secondary and when i go to full throtle free revving the car the secondaries crack open about 1/2 in.
whats going on???????

mainly when driving the car it just doesnt fell like it has the top end it should.
is the carb to small is the carb not working right cause the choke is blocked off????

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

and i have all emissons pulled off the car and all the vac ports are pluged on the carb

P.S. i live at about 5300 ft elevation

 

No carb tuning is to be performed until two things are set: timing, and float level. You're missing at least one of those.

What do you mean by "blocked off choke"?

No way no how is the carb too small for an LG4 - or any 305.

Too bad you didn't keep the stock computer system. Pulling "emissions" off of the car typically helps nothing and messes up plenty. If you don't know what it does, don't assume it isn't needed.

 

all i did was block off the vac ports on the carb and on the choke. so the choke is just un hooked. and the timing it close the car doesnt really bog or anything when running or at WOT. i read in other posts that the secondaries shouldnt open when free revving the engine??? why does my carb do it?

 

The vacuum port on the choke is really a hot air source to heat the choke thermostat. Often referred to as a "hot air" style choke. A tube went from the choke housing to a plate mounted on the intake manifold, down into the exhaust cross-over passage, and back up to the back of the carb air horn for a source of filtered air. If you don't have the entire hot air system, including an intake manifold that accommodates it, you need to replace the choke thermostat with an electrically-heated thermostat. The good news is they are the same size, making conversion to an electric choke simple.

While it is possible to set timing by trial-and-error, you're more likely to end up on the "error" side. Get a proper tab on there, and set the timing properly.

It is possible to get the secondary air valve to open blipping the throttle in the driveway by over-reving the engine, but it typically indicates an improperly adjusted AV system. Two things are involved - the vacuum-operated choke pull-off (manifold vacuum has to drop with WOT to release the pull-off); and the AV tension screw adjustment. The primarily adjustable one is the AV tension - the method for adjusting it is described in the Tech Article linked from the thirdgen.org homepage.

 

so i pretty much need to get a carb with a electric choke or convert this carb to a electric choke???

how good are the edelbrock carbs from say checker or maybe the holly ones???

 

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1502481...ductDetail.htm

how does this carb look. i dont want to spend anything over 300 on a carb? but i have been looking at just getting a diff. carb

 

so not having the choke hooked up is deff hurting me right???

 

Go to the JY and pick up a q-jet from a post 197x car. Jeez, hot air chokes are for the stone age.
I grabbed mine off a 1984 cutlass LG4 car, works peachy.
Go from there.

 

what if i just take the choke off i dont even want a choke. is the choke doing anything right now?

 

You want a choke.
They aren't that hard to deal with, just fix it, rather than trying to avoid it. You'll be happier in the long run.