hello i live in alberta canada and we have noe emissions testing or laws, i have a 1985 T/A LG4, i recently got a edelbrock 2101 intake(no egr) and a edelbrock 1405 card, what i'm wonderig is if all i have to hook back up is the vac. advance and the pcv? it has a 700r4 whick hav a vacume activated switch for the lock up, what should i do???

 

If originally non-computer, which it should be if a Canadian-delivered car, then just hook things back up.

Why, oh why are you putting on an Edelbrock carb?

 

because it was cheap..LOL it might be going back, i e-mailed edelbrock to see if i will have TV cable issues

 

Edelbrock carb in place of an operating q-jet is not cheap, it's a waste of money. You won't gain anything, and you'll give up plenty.

There is a TV corrector available to bolt to the Edelbrock throttle arm. One of the things that works fine without modification with the q-jet, but may not work quite right if you go the Edelbrock route.

Save your money, keep the q-jet.

 

will the stock q-jet work without egr tho? because most of the emission stuff is going, and it is not a feedback carb

 

The Q-jet will work just fine without the EGR. Just make sure that the vacumm ports that are capped off, are done so with the appropriate sized cap, way to small ones may crack and fail quickly, to big of a cap and they will come off.

 

will the timeing have to be changes without the egr?

 

No, not exactly, Continue to use the factory listed setting. But obviosly whenever you remove the distributor you will need to set it properly with a timing light. Marking the distibutor before taking it out will put you back in the ball park, but it will need fine tuning once the car is all back together.

 

do you think just putting in a new non egr intake headers and remove the cat will make any power difference?

 

To be honest I think you should consider leaving the catalytic converter on. Even though you have removed the rest of the emisions system, the cat. can help remove some of the strong vapors that will bother you at stop lights and drive thru's.
Any time you help air flow you will notice a difference over stock, but there is always a trade off somewhere. The factory setup was probably the most fuel efficient that motor could do, the emmisions system was built in such a way that also helped the motor run a bit cooler, but in the end the changes your talking about shouldn't make it over heat unless the header bolts loosen up and allow exhuast to leak at the gasket, you will need to check them often unless you invest in locking header bolts, there not expensive.

 

Here's the order of modifications I would suggest (also in the "Differences between 305's" in the FAQ forum):

Air cleaner - the single-snorkel air cleaner is a horrible restriction.
Exhaust - goes hand-in-hand with the air cleaner. Headers and y-pipe a must, high-flow 3" cat and 3" cat-back really make a difference. These are needed so any other upgrades will provide maximum benefit.
Cam - the stock piece is really lame, and grinds available now are much more sophisticated. Consider valve springs as part of the cam job.
Heads - not necessarily replace, but 1.94" intake valves, port clean-up, maybe 1.60" exhaust valves if you're willing to go the extra step.
Intake manifold - A Performer, Street Dominator, or Action + will be a bit of a step up from the stock piece. Canadian LG4 cars often got cast iron intakes, which weren't quite as good as the aluminum counterparts, so you could move this up behind exhaust in the order if that applies to you. If the cam you go with has a power band above 5500 RPMs, then a Performer RPM spreadbore would be a better choice.
Carburetor - A strip-only or manual transmission car can benefit from a double pumper type carb. But, the stock q-jet will do just as well power-wise for a streetable car, although the double pumper has benefits for a manual transmission, even on the street. You should never consider a demand-secondary type carb, such as any Edelbrock, or vacuum secondary Holley or Demon, as a replacement for a q-jet.