Hey guys, I'm a TBI guy and I'm working on a friend of mines 84 L69 car and I need some serious help. Here's a list of questions and I have done a search but I haven't been able to find anything.


First, The car has a serious problem with excelleration. To me it feels like the secondaries aren't opening up. If run at half throttle it's fine but if at WOT is feels like it's struggling. Is it hard to rebuild the carb? TBI's are easy but these things are abit more difficult for me.

Secondly, I'm pulling out ALL of the emissions equipment due to it either being heavily rotted or inoperable. The EGR works ok so it will stay but what on the carb can I plug up with caps and keep the car running ok? The CCP is destroyed and most if the vacuum hoses are rotted. I need the bare essentials for operation.

Third, it looks as if someone JB Welded the fuel filter screw to the carb and cut some of the line to run one of those cheap MR. Gasket fuel filters. What would be an effective way of converting it back to a regular in-carb filter?


Well that's all I've got for now but if anybody can help me that would be great.

 

The secondaries won't open if the choke is closed, but if that's not the problem, then rebuild the carb isn't too terribly difficult. Check the sticky at the top of the board.

A few cents of vacuum hose will have all the emissions equipment back in working order with little difficulty. Resist the temptation to eliminate things without understanding what they do.

More than likely someone used JB Weld because they stripped the threads on the carb body, in which case there isn't an easy fix.

 

As far as the emissions stuff, it's going to take more than just hoses to fix it. this car has been let to rot and most of the emissions equipment is heavily damaged. that's why I was asking how to just delete it.

The CCP is completely fubar'd
The smog pump is seized and the motor that controlled it is busted
The valve by the pass. side exhaust is rusted to hell
that's pretty much it as far as that goes.
Plus it cleans up the engine bay abit.

 

CCP? Not sure I know what that is. Perhaps vapor recovery system?

The A.I.R. pump isn't "controlled" by a motor. There is a diverter valve that routes the pump flow to either the manifolds or cat.

I wouldn't have thought there was much road salt used in Kingman. Or, did the car come from the rust belt?

 

Charcoal canister is what I mean. This car is owned by an old lady who hasn't changed the oil in 2 years if that tells you anything. That's why there is so much wrong with the car. If you mean the diverter valve then yes, it's toast. I'll take pics tonight of everything I'm talking about tonight to put things in a better perspective.

 

Here's a diagram of how I bypassed that plethora of hoses and valves on my L69. Nearly all my emissions stuff was wasted when I got my car, every bit of it broken, disconnected or missing. Doesn't eliminate everything, but keeps what I thought were bare essentials.
Had the exhaust heat riser deleted at a muffler shop, removed the air pump tubes and plugged them with 1/4" pipe plugs, catalytic was already gutted, put the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold and installed a regular water neck (deletes those weird little vacuum switches) kept the charcoal canister and EGR as shown, kept the feedback Qjet system.

 

You should really keep the EGR TVS if you're going to keep using EGR, otherwise delete the EGR entirely.

 

You lost me there; the factory underhood diagram shows the EFE running thru one of those TVs, and the charcoal canister thru the other; not sure what you mean regarding the EGR.

 

Ah, sorry. I was thinking of the non-digital EGR setup. Your EGR isn't functional anyway without the ECM, it might as well go.

 

This is EXACTLY the same issue I'm having with this car. This diagram helps alot thanks. But..... I have to get an easyout due to a thermostat housing bolt desciding to break on me. so that will be my next project tomorrow.

 

Dang, you must have my car's evil twin, I broke a stat housing bolt too, first week I had it. Had to drill the sucker out and heli-coil it after the ez-out broke.

 

That's probably what I'm going to have to do. Not looking forward to it.

 

You can get a plug for the TVS fitting in the water neck, in fact a replacement water neck (although it's cast) runs around $5-10 at AZ and comes with allen head plugs for both fittings.

The EFE and the AIR system are really the only two things I'd recommend losing. Neither will hurt you if left in place but the cost to repair either of these may not be worth the effort.

 

I have a stock 84 l69 in the pretty much the same situation, but do you have to move the temp sensor from the air cleaner? Can I keep it where it is and have it still work properly?

 

The "temp sensor" on the air cleaner is a vacuum switch for the flap in the snorkel to draw warm air from around the exhaust manifold until the engine warms up.

 

Ahhhh I get it now, thanks

 

As far as the stat bolts go, be careful not to drill all the way through. I had the same issue and retapped the hole larger. Helicoil works just as well. I did switch to stainless steel bolts and put a bit of anti-seize on them to keep it from happening again.

 

Two questions:

What do I do with the choke pull off/ vacuum break assembly? There is a vac hose going from it to port B in the diagrams. It actually joins with the temp sensor vacuum line before it enters port B

Also what do I do with the wires that were plugged into the air management valve?

 

Leave the vacuum break connected.

Tuck any unneeded wires out of the way.

 

should I just connect it straight into port B? Thanks

I guess too where can I get these "pipe plugs" for the manifolds or can I just use solid bolts

 

Just wondering - if the computer is toast would it not be advancing the timing and that is the reason behind the WOT drama?

 

Any parts store or hardware store has pipe plugs.

 

So this is what ive done: New standard water pump, smog pump removed, air valve management removed, check valve removed, canister control valve remmoved, purge tvs and efe tvs removed, temp sensor removed, and efe removed.

Egr kept as it was, choke pull off/vacuum break assembly routed to port B, pcv routed to port L, tank pressure control valve routed to port H, and the other vacuum hose for the canister routed to port T.

Everything was plugged except for the hard line going to the cat. No smog pump delete pulley used because there was one belt going from the water pump to it.

Started up the engine and it sounded kinda lopey and when i gave it gas by hand it would bog a bit then accelerate and when I stopped it died. Also during this time there was a cloud of smoke pouring out the exhaust.

Could this just be the air-to-fuel mixture needing to be changed? My mechanic had tweeked it along with the idle a while back thinking it would fix my choke problem.

If need be I can make a video, show everything and start it up.

Edit: I guess I should say its an 84 camaro z28 stock L69 auto vin G