i dont know whats going on with this car, but i just acquired it for a lot of money and it wont even drive. so im getting mad. haha

it runs perfect in nuetral and in park, but when put into gear, it almost immediately bogs down and eventually dies.

it has no power when i keep it running and driving, it drives like sh*t. i did figure out the cylinder closest to the front of the vehicle on the passenger side isnt firing. the exhaust on that cylinder/valve isnt getting hot, after idling for twenty minutes i can still touch the header. but all other 7, i cant even get close because its too hot. new distributor, plugs and wires. and my timing light says there is spark going through my wires. i have no idea where to start, please, any advice would be GREAT.

can smell unburnt gas from exhaust too!

 

Do a compression test on the #2 cylinder.
Rings could be blown and thiers no compression thus no good mixture and even thou thiers spark the fuel won't burn as it's not under pressure.

In fact if it sounds like the car has no power what so ever then do a compression check on all the cylinders.
Compression should be any where from 90 to 150 psi but with a worn motor 70 to 90 should be expected. Any less and that will be the reason it's not firing.
Sounds like the whole motor may need new rings in all pistons.

 

how do i do a compression test? and also, what am i looking for? thanks!

 

Go to autozone or napa or Discount Auto and rent a compression tester.
You will remove the #2 spark plug and screw the tester into the spark plug hole.
Have some one turn the motor over (just bumping the key not to start it but get it tunring over) The gauge will rise and tell you the pressure.

I edited my old post but to repeat the psi should be around 100 to 150 but on an older motor with mileage 80 to 90 should be typical. Anything lower than that and it means your piston rings are busted and will need to be replaced. Do the test on all the other cylinders to since you said the engine doesn't run right when in gear you might have low pressure on other pistons also. Which would be why under load the engine is dying. If it is the rings you'll have to tear the motor down and replace the rings.

 

well damn. thats not what i wanted to hear. lol

i will do that when i get paid, but say all the compressions are good, do u know of anything else that could be doing this, was told something to do with a TCC or a tranny lock or something like that???

 

The only other way you wouldn't be firing is if theirs something clogging the #2 intake port or the intake valve is not opening. The first option is highly unlikely but the second one is possible.
To check.

Take off the valve cover on the passenger side. It's only held on by 4 screws.
When the valve comes off thier will be a gasket most likely cork or possibly rubber. Keep it intact and with the cover. Now have a buddies bump the key to turn the engine over but not start it. Watch the valve spring closest to the front and see if they are being pushed down first the intake down and then back up and then the exhaust down and back up.

If the intake is not being pushed down then the cam lobe is worn out and will need to be replaced.

 

compression on that cylinder once was 135 and another time 150. good there

my dad also explained i need to check to see if the valve is opening or not, going to do that hopefully tomorro, thanks so much for the help, will return with details and report.

 

u said the cam lobe can be bad? what is this, and whats its purpose and price and what all do i need to do to replace it, i definitely appreciate ur help, u have saved me alot of time and money so far. haha !

 

No Prob.
First did you check to see if the intake spring is compressing letting the valve drop into the head? I assume not so next we need to see why. If the valve pushrod is loose then we need to tighten it down. This means getting to what is called zero lash. To do this you have to make sure the piston on a down stroke in the bore.

The simple way is to have someone bump the motor and watch the exhaust spring as soon as it has gone down and starts to come back up then we know the intake is at zero lash.
Tighten the rocker stud slowly while turing the pushrod with your hand. It should turn easy if it is loose. As soon as it feels harder to turn (its not a huge difference just slight) then turn the nut 1/2 turn to reach zero lash. Now trying to see if the engine fires in that cylinder.

This is if the pushrod is loose as in you can wiggle it up in down from the lifter and the rocker arm.

If not then watch the lifter and see if it makes any movement when a buddy bumps the engine key a couple times. There's a possibility the lifter is stuck although it's more unlikely as the cam lobe should pop it out on the lift.

Check the valve springs to see if they are attached correctly and nothing is getting caught or binded stopping the intake from working.

The reason your checking all this is the next step is to remove the cam.
This requires removing the drive belt accesories a/c, power steering, water pump, and alternator, and smog pump. Then removing the timing cover. unhooking the timing chain. Probably have to remove the raidator and fan to get enough room to pull the cam out. Pull the cam out to the second large bearing to get a look at the lobes. The first lobes are 4 (2 for the first cylinder and the last 2 for the second cylinder. The third lobe should be the intake lobe for the second cylinder if I recall. See if it is smaller, flatter, broke or any imperfections compared to the first lobe in the cam.

If thiers a problem you'll have to replace the cam. This means new cam and new lifters. Go ahead and upgrade to a little more aggressive cam if you want some more power just stay under .450 lift with the stock heads.

Sorry for the work you'll have to go through.

Also you have Flat Tappet cam since your an 84 and they didn't go to roller cams till 87.
Flat Tappet has a special break in procedure so make sure to read the manufactuer warnings and do some online research if you end up going that route.