jchaussee

I have a 1968 327 with a 1985 quadrjet 4 bbl electric choke ( which at moment is not hooked up) . Is this carb worth rebuilding are should I get a aftermarket carb. It also has a customer code of HLY. What does that mean? If I do rebuild ( which I have never done) , what is a good rebuild kit. Thank You

MC305SS

IMO and many other circle track guys etc, nothing outlasts a Rochester.
Now when it some to rebuilding them, make sure whomever is doing it has vast experience with a Rochester.

jchaussee

So I would not be the best for me to try my first rebuild on??

Apeiron

Go right ahead, just pay attention to the details.

jchaussee

Good rebuild links???

Dustytrix

iTrader: (3)

Try this Tedmtnman@yahoo.com He has a good selection and very fair price.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

They're great street carbs but they have lots of small parts. Get a well lit clean bench so you can lay out all the parts and take notes if you need to about where each one came from. Some of the old manuals had good rebuild guides or find a specific guide for your carb. Just be methodical and careful with the adjustments.

Apeiron

I guess nobody reads stickies? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

jchaussee

I did read ift. But it is hard to follow for someone who has never rebuilt one. In fact I read that sticky before I posted thed question.

Camaro305SB

I guess it comes down with how mechanically inclined you are. If you have the tools and have a manual it shouldn't pose much of a problem. Are you trying to get it done within a certain time frame? If not, just go ahead and take your time.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Every carb kit I've ever seen had instructions with an expanded view of the carb and the parts numbered in the order of disassembly. Reassembly was in the reverse order, putting in the new parts in the kit as you go along. Settings for things like the float are detailed elsewhere within the instructions.

That was true in 1970 when I rebuilt my first carb, and it was true in 2008 when I did the last one.

I clean off the work bench, put an old bath towel down, and start laying the parts along the top in order as I go along. A gallon of the dip-type carb cleaner to soak the parts prior to reassembly. An air compressor is a nice thing to have available to blow out the passages after soaking in the cleaner. If you don't have access to an air compressor, get a few cans of spray carb cleaner (along with the dip type), use the plastic tube to blow out the passages. The spray carb cleaner evaporates fairly quickly (but I still prefer compressed air).

Apeiron

For really heavy deposits, a soak in real carburetor cleaner is essential. The stuff in the spray can evaporates too fast to really penetrate the varnish. CRC Tyme-1 is sort of the gold-standard for carb cleaners, and it's good for taking carbon off pistons and heads, too. It's also good at taking flesh off bone, causing cancer, and there's evidence it's linked to a greatly increased risk of developing Parkinson's disease, so you know it has to be good.

The spray stuff is good for flushing out the small passages after a good soak, though. A can of compressed air with a straw like you can get from an office supply store for cleaning computer keyboards works is a reasonable substitute for compressed air, too.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

In addition to a clean and clear bench it's a good idea to clean up the floor too in case you drop something. Some of the parts are very small and could be hard to spot. Also, don't dump all the parts in a cleaning bath in one shot. Keep them separate until/unless you're confident you know what each part it is and where it goes. Have fun.

jchaussee

Good tips fellas. I appreciated it. I have all winter so I will probaly try it. I also saw a full color book with rebuils and tuning at library

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Should have mentioned that explicitly, but just assumed my suggestion to keep the parts in order covered it. Good point.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Cliff Ruggles is the man who rebuilt my carb, he's got a speed shop out in Ohio who's name escapes me at the moment. He wrote a book on the Rochester carbs which is why I went with him. Google him if you want, I'm really happy with the work done on mine.

Apeiron

Cliff's High Performance

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

LOL that's it. IF you have them do the work, make sure it's over the winter though because their summer turn around time is 4-5 months as they do alot of work on motors for the local tracks that takes precedence.

jchaussee

Cool. I will check them out

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

the Qjet carb is a great street, or light duty strip carb. Used them for years on my Pontiac V8s (and still do). most flow 750cfms (when the secondaries are adjusted right), and give great throttle response. the 85 carb is microprocessor controlled and has this god awful M/C(mixure control) solenoid that i wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy. had one act up on a 307 olds engine, and spent a year trying to get it to work, and it still wasn't right. not one to give up on a challenge, but i would rather invest in a TPI than mess around with an electronic Qjet. you state your eng is a 68. Is the car also a 68, or 85? if emissions isn't a concern, drive over that 85 Qjet with your truck, and get an earlier version, that doesn't need a computer.

jchaussee

The car is an 85( wish was a 68) with a 68 327. The computer is not hooked up. The car originaly was a TPI car but a PO swapped motors. I don't know what carb came out of. I just ran numebers and said was an 85 carb for automatic transmission. If an 85 Qjet is crappy I can always get different one or aftermarket. I just thought it would be fun to try and rebuild it over winter.

Apeiron

You'll never get it to run right without the computer.

jchaussee

Well that sucks

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Good luck!

DoubleV

The electronic Qjets are just as good as an the non electronic Qjets. They're just different.

Most people just don't understand the CCC system. Due to their own ignorance, they mess things up and then denounce the electronic Qjet as being junk.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

Cudos to you professor, for having the knowlege to work this antiquated carburated system, but most of us don't have a masters degree in automotive electronics. the average home mechanic doesn't have access to accurate troubleshooting data needed to repair this complicated system. even the factory shop manual doesn't offer all the info needed. And trying to get advice from a local garage is like asking BankOne for their financial security code password.( mainly, because they don't understand it either).

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

LOL FOr this I agree. However, if you do what I did, and spend 2 days searching the 1000+ posts related to the Qjet issues here, you can learn how both to rebuilt it properly by learning what to look for and...how to tune it properly. All you need is a drill, a really small flat head and a carb adjustment tool for the idle mixture screws. hehe

Apeiron

For the tiny amount of function that the CCC system actuall does, what is it that's so difficult to understand and troubleshoot? 90% of the system functions identically to a conventional carburetor, only the idle and cruise mixture is controlled by the computer. The troubleshooting information in the factory manual is incredibly detailed, in the 84 manual in front of me there are 182 pages of flowcharts and tests in the carbureted Driveability and Emissions section. Under "special tools" it lists a multimeter, unpowered test light, tachometer and dwellmeter.

Yes, your local shop isn't going to help you because they don't know anything at all about carburetors anymore, computer-controlled or otherwise.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

the original question asked by jc is the electronic Qjet a good carb for a 1st time rebuilder to tackle? And if not, what other options. and for my final response I will end with, if you've got the patience of a saint, and the determination of a starving hyena, go for it. But if your car is already wired for a TPI, i'ld rather learn that system, than entertain the notion of relying on a carb (with electrically dancing primary metering rods on a crash course of self destruction and no option of performance adjustments), to fulfill my needs as a perfomance car hobbiest and enthusiast. Good luck jc

jharrison5

[quote=Apeiron;4736655]CRC Tyme-1 is sort of the gold-standard for carb cleaners, and it's good for taking carbon off pistons and heads, too. It's also good at taking flesh off bone, causing cancer, and there's evidence it's linked to a greatly increased risk of developing Parkinson's disease, so you know it has to be good.


LOL I need to get my hands on some of this stuff!

jchaussee

Tajoe. That is a badass idea. Why not just put the TPI system ontop of my 327. That would be sweet. So would I jusrt need the manifold on up to achieve that

Apeiron

If the car is still wired for TPI and not butchered, it's a better choice than trying to retrofit a CCC system. That doesn't mean the CCC system is inherently unsound.


Have a look at the inside of a fuel injector sometime.

jchaussee

My harness and ECM are both in car still. I have currently a 1968 327 motor in it with the 85 quadrajet carb in it. I am just looking at options. I am no performance guru but am halfway machanicaly inclined. I would like to get best performance I can out of motor as long as the problems in my " too much pressure in radiator" thread are resolved

jchaussee

Another question. O searched ( cause I know how much it irrataes you if I don't) on theTPI forum for carb to tp swap. Did not find any good thrads. Do you know of any good ones or any good articles?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

If you already have the ECM and harness in tact with all of the sensors and fuel pump still there, then all you would need is the correct TPI intake, fuel rails and then hook everything back up to original.

The CC carb can be adjusted for performance. The compter does not affect idle or WOT, only part throttle is controlled by the computer for emissions. Once set up, it's actually as good as any holley or edelbrock so long as it's built for the larger amount of HP/bigger motor.

jchaussee

My fule pump is now on side of my block. Is that ok??

Apeiron

Not for TPI.

jchaussee

I found on craiglsit. Guy selling the fuel injection sytem for a 85 vette for 250. Includes runners, senxors, compter, evrything it says. Is that a decent deal??

Apeiron

If it's all in good shape, and you want to take the effort to retro-fit it all into your car, and figure out what's been done to your fuel system.

jchaussee

I am assuming by the hack job that is already done to my car that the original pump is still in tank and all corosponding fuel lines have been just cut/ and or capped off. As soon as the snow melts I can jack up car and start assesing the situation. I am still not sure if this is my best option and/or I am smart enough to do it. I really just would like a halfway reliable sports car that I can take my kids to cubscouts or football practice in. ( they think it is a race car and like cruising with t tops off) as well as maybe going for mountian rides in with my wife. I am hoping to achieve most results by next spring

DoubleV

Agreed 100%.

I would never add a CCC system to a car that didn't have one, but I see no need to remove it if that's what came with the car. People just seem to like to cut/remove/butcher/hack things up which is why so many owners get these cars in such poor shape with so many issues.

I just think that if more people educated themselves on how the CCC system worked ( or ANY other system for that matter ), people would realize they're not junk and are quite simple. I know they ain't 'all that and a side of fries', but they're not junk.

Tajoe just shows the classic example of the 'I don't understand it, therefore it's junk' mentality. Perhaps educating oneself on something before making comments or giving advice would be a wiser course of action.

-The professor-

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

Jc
Sorry for all this, but will end it after this. Professor doubletree. I guess i struck a nerve. first off, you've passed judgement against me based on one statement, but thats OK. built many Qjets, only one with mc solenoid. struggled thru the system with the shop manual and professional help (which was no help) and have months of documented changes I made 1 at a time, to figure it out. I did get the car to run better, but if i had my druthers, I'ld still rather have a system with no computer. the automobile lives thru the worst conditions any computer should have to endure. hot, cold, vibration ect. My generation grew up BC (b4 computers), and cars ran perfectly for a much longer time than these electronics have even existed. but i understand most of the members on this site have to put up with this electronic dilema, and my sympathy goes out to you. as i stated above, this electronic carbs primary metering can't be adjusted for performance in closed loop, which is where all your street drivability comes from. even with the aftermarket chips, they only modify it for WOT.As much as we'ld like to, we can't spend alot of time in this mode. so jc, if you don't need a computerized carb, and are looking for reliability and performance, ditch the puter. if you're one of the electronic fans, the TPI is still a better choice for street performance.(Plus it looks so much cooler.)

jchaussee

Tpi is down the road when more money permits. I may get an aftermarket carb or an older qjwt and still try to rebuild. 600cfm for a 327 should be fine right???

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

jc, most Qjets flow about 750 cfms, but the secondary airvalve can be adjusted to work fine on your 327. remember, even the 305s came with Qjets. the small primary venturies are perfect for your smallblock. these carbs are a dime a dozen and is the cheapest bang for your buck, till you put together the killer motor everone dreams of building down the road. Once again, good luck in whichever road you take.

jchaussee

Tajoe. Thank you for help. I do have another question about carbs. Currently I have no choke. It has been cold here and has got below freezing. I can not get car started now. Is there a way to rig the choke? Excuse my ignorance. This is only my second vehicle that I have owned with a carb. The first one I have not had for over ten years.

Apeiron

Does it not have a choke, or is the choke disconnected?

jchaussee

Disconected. It should have an electric choke but I have no clue of how to hook it up.

eseibel67

Q jet is an excellent carb. Starts good in feezing weather, good part throttle response, and lots of airflow when the secondaries are open. I'm an old guy, and every car I had in my younger days ran GREAT with a Q jet. If possible, I would stay away from the CCC, it's an unesseccary complication IMO.

The choke runs on 12V with the ignition on. It had a spring that closes the choke flap when cold. You can adjust the spring tension by turning the round plastic dial. I always found that experimenting with the position yielded the best results.

New FI systems are superior in every way, but the old Q jet is a good setup that's fun to play with.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

jc, if your car was wired for TPI, you probably don't have the wire to connect to your carb choke. not to say there isn't someting to use. As mentioned above, you need to find a hot wire when the key is turned on.Are you running the 85 carb right now with no electronics? i can't see that thing working very well, without the entire system. Anyway, i've run my 79 400 pontiac with Qjet for about 20 yrs now on the street, and was tired of changing choke springs every few yrs. so i purchased a universal choke cable kit, from the local autoparts store about 10 yrs ago, and love it. On these cold New England mornings, simply pump the accelerator pump a few times, pull the choke closed, start her up and set the fast idle. then go in the house and veg a few where its warm, and wait for the eng to heat up. will never run an automatic choke again. the kit will direct you to the proper hookup and it's relatively easy. once again, keep the faith bud.

jchaussee

Good point on no wire for choke. I do see where a plug goes to choke, but looks as if it was broken. Like I said this is mainly to get me by for awhile. It is not my daily driver and it is my first project( have been waiting for years, my three kids have stopped that ) I will probaly go get the universal kit you speak off. If not then I can hook up electric carb via spade connection to fuse box??