Instead of making a ton of threads I figure I would just put my entire rebuild in this thread.
My car is a 1984 Trans Am with a 77 chevy 350 conversion in it. The current carb is not running right at all despite the several shops I've had try to tune it into shape so I figured I would rebuild a carb I took off a 305 82 trans am. The carb number thats currently on my 350 is 17083226 1323 fkc which comes back as a 81-86 chevy truck carb. The thing that confuses me is I dont see a mixture control solenoid. Here are some pictrues of the carb thats on the car, it seems to have been recently rebuilt as it has a lot of new gaskets on it and the inside is pretty clean. It is missing the rear vacuumm break break though. Most of the time it runs extremely rich and every now and then it will hesitate. It also bogs down and floods itself at 70mph. I dont think this one is a CCC quadrajet and I'm guessing this is 90% of my problem since I believe the blue connector it is missing controls the A/F ratio.





The carb Im currently rebuilding has a number of 17082204 0492 DUM. I want to try to squeeze a tad more horsepower out of my car. Here is the part on the main body that is missing. Can I just JBWeld over this to seal it?

1) It's not a CCC carb.

2) You don't need the rear vacuum break as it is totally worthless.

3) You're running rich because you have fuel leaking out of that open well plug. You need to plug it and then epoxy it so it won't leak. I don't know if JB weld would work or not though.

The carb in the last picture is one I'm rebuilding, not the one on the car. I went and picked up a ccc carb once I learned what was running on my car. I don't believe my distributor was changed so I'm guessing this is where my problems are stemming from.
Is everyone using that 2 part epoxy for sealing the holes after its plugged?

From your pictures, you do have a vacuum/mechanical advance distributor.

Maybe its just a bad rebuild on the carb then. This does open up some doors though. I can rebuild a 800cfm carb and get one of Cliff's HP rebuild kits.
Since its a non ccc carb and mechanical disty on a computer controlled car maybe not all the sensors are have been taken care of and the computer is messing things up?

If you have a mechanical carb and mechanical distributor, the computer isn't doing anything.

To include not controlling the torque converter lockup. You can work through that with some help from the sticky atop the carb forum after you get the car running right.

How is it not running right? What are the symptoms? Let's ensure the ignition and everything else is up to snuff before breaking into the carb.

The problem I'm having is it has rough idle, it wants to flood itself out a lot, and anything passed 65 mph it floods out and drops it back down to 40 mph. If im going down the highway at 55 it runs just fine but ive never driven it farther then 25 miles straight yet since I just recently bought it and i only work 10 miles away. When its bogging down at the 65 mph mark you can smell all the unbruned gas.
The carb on it seems to be a pretty recent rebuild as its pretty clean inside and the gaskets seem pretty new.

Someone may have screwed it up when it was opened up. Before you go too crazy I'd open the airhorn and check the float level. Then pull it out and check the fuel wells at the bottom for major leakage.

This is being fed by a mechanical fuel pump, right? No in-tank electric?

Im not sure on the fuel pump actually. Whats the best way to tell the difference? I havent seen any modifications to the fuel tank when I was undercoating the car.
I believe its running a inline fuel filter as well.

If it's got a 'H' or a 'G' in the eighth digit of the VIN you should be OK. If it was originally a cross-fire (were they even available in '84?) it may have an FI pump at higher pressures that can flood the carb.

Ya it was an H code I believe. Originally a 305 carb that the previous owner swapped in with a 77 chevy block with some mods. I also checked for leaks around the throttle shaft and its not leaking at all.

Alright I spent a few days doing research and also picked up Doug Roe's book. Im doing this the right way and picking up a non ccc carb. I'm either looking at a 72 corvette l48 or 79 trans am carb. The rebuild on the T/A right now is actually from 99 and it sat since then. A lot of people say the shop that did it is not very credible for their work so buying and rebuilding seems to be the best option for me as I still need to drive my car.
As many of the reputable members that recommended Doug Roe's book will I need any accompanying books for modifying things such as the jets, float height, or metering rods?

No.

As long as its a non ccc carb I can basically get any year I want and it should bolt right on correct? Even late 60's etc?

Bolt on, yes. But you may want to look for one that has the fuel inlet on the side so your lines connect and an electric choke.

You also want to check that it has the correct linkage for your transmission.

I think I found a decent carb for what I want to do. Stock its pretty close to what I need to run based on my setup. I emailed Cliff about it and he was very helpful in what I need to do so I'll probably pick it up and get my kit, etc. from Cliff and see how it turns out. I talked to the previous owner about what he ran on this car before. He was running a modified 750 cfm carb with huge jets but it wasnt running right so he put this extra quadrajet he had lieing around on after having it rebuilt but the guy who rebuilt it thinks it may still be having issues. Better to just get a new one and rebuild it the right way.

I bought a 77 corvette quadrajet 17057504. Should have it rebuilt by the middle of february due to time constraints.

Outstanding. Let us know how it goes.