Hey recently my car went bad on me, and my mechanic friend told me he thinks its the carb (floats being stuck open and vacum issues).

The motor is an 87 lg4

How do I tell what aftermarket carb will fit on my car? Will I just have to buy an adapter or straight bolt in? And if I end up replacing my carb with an aftermarket one, will I have to switch intake manifolds?

 

have yours rebuilt, a lot cheaper, will bolt in with nothing needed, and will work just fine, probably better than it ever did before.

 

None of them.

Rebuild the carb with a kit and a new float (if that's what's really wrong).

If worst comes to worst, buy a rebuilt original carb. That will still be cheaper than what you have to do to downgrade to an aftermarket carb.

There is no aftermarket carb that is better than the one that came on the car from the factory. That's just a plain fact.

 

a rebuilt kit, float, and a couple of cans of carb cleaner will cost about $50.. it will take a couple of hours to clean and rebuild the carb, and the kit comes with very detailed instructions that walk you thru every step of the rebuild and calibration.. it's not hard, but it is rewarding..

 

Nothing aftermarket will bolt in.....these cars have electronic controlled carb and ignition systems. Get the stock carb fixed, and what ever else might be wrong, by a competent tech and it will run as well as a modified set up for less money and it will be legally done.

 

Ok, I got a way different response then I expected. I'll get my carb rebuilt

 

if you don't have emissions testing, you could get an HEI distributor and carb off a late 70's pickup and put that on.. this would allow you to take about 50 pounds of clutter off your engine and get rid of all but about 3 wires under the hood..

but it wouldn't be emissions legal, so take that into consideration if that's an issue where you are..

 

Link to kit or P/N PLEASE! lol

 

I'd like you to document that 50 pound statement. Reduce wiring, yes. No way no how 50 pounds. Maybe 5. Maybe.

Even if emissions isn't an issue, I still maintain that you're better off with the factory system for street performance than ANY non-computer combo.

When you take the car off the street and haul it to the track on a trailer, then I'll concede to a non-computer setup.