Harleyquinn

Just had a guy "rebuild" this.

Harleyquinn

but from what ive been told. This is not what this carb should look like after a completed rebuild.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What's it supposed to look like?

It's not a q-jet like the factory used, it's a Holley. It needs a gasket for the air cleaner, and I don't much like the spreadbore-to-squarebore adapter (prefer to get a squarebore intake manifold).

But other than that, what is supposedly wrong? Today isn't April 1st.

Harleyquinn

honestly other than the car not turning over at all, and the flap at the top not moving at all, im not even sure. I know nothing about carburetors. I changed the fuel filter yesterday amd i bought a new mech fuel pump that i have yet to install. When it does crank it immediately dies and shuts off. Ive replaced all of the fuses under the steering. And tried starting it with starter fluid and that works to get it turn over but its just dies after its on for a few seconds. And the guy that looked at it yesterday said it Sounds like someone tried to turn a four barrell into a two barrell carb???. Mind you i have no clue what that means.

gt4373

Is The Carb Getting Fuel.

Harleyquinn

After it cranks there is fuel going through the filter. It seems somewhat inconsistentnt though. But im pretty sure the carb is getting fuel.

Rancid87

Maybe it's just me but I don't see any pictures.

Having said that, if its a holley and you can see fuel coming out of the squirter nozzle when you operate the throttle you know the fuel bowls are filled up. You may want to check if the idle air screws are turned in all the way(small screws on the front metering block). If so, try turning them out 1.5 turns on each side and try again.

Also, you may want to make sure the base plate gasket is in good shape. I can't see any pictures so if you posted them I apologize. Vacuum leaks can cause a lot of issues.

In regards to making a 4 barrel a 2 barrel - is the choke closed? I'm not really sure what you mean by that.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

By "not turning over" I assume you mean it doesn't start. The starter "turns" the engine over to start it.

The flap at the top is the choke. It enriches the mixture to help the engine run when the engine is cold. Fuel doesn't vaporize well when the engine is cold, and it runs on gasoline vapors, not gasoline liquid. By adding more fuel to the mixture when cold, enough will be vaporized to burn. The result is excess liquid to wash down cylinder walls and more unburnt fuel out the exhaust, which is why carburetors are no longer used for production cars. Oh, using starter fluid would have the same effect, enriching the mixture.

Now we need to know what kind of choke application system the carb has. Does it have a choke thermostat? That would be on the passenger side, which you don't give us a picture. If it doesn't have a choke thermostat, it's a "manual" choke, which requires a cable that you operate from inside the car. Post a pic. (If it is a manual choke, you can move the lever by hand to close the choke, and then see if it will run.)

But we really need more information. Why was the carb "rebuilt"? Was it this carb that was rebuilt, or did you take something else to him? Did the car ever run with this carb? What did the car originally have? (If you don't know, give us the year of the car and the 8th character of the VIN.)

That means he doesn't know anything about carburetors, either.

Harleyquinn

8th digit of the vin : H and its an 86

And just got of the phone with the last owner. The engine was rebuilt bored out and is now a 350. And the car was running at night for about 30 mins w/o problem. And during the day 20 mins and then stalled out and seemingly coasted into nuetral. Since then it will start but stalls out after a few seconds.

The carb that was on prior to this one was missing the entire electric choke setup on the passenger side ie why i intially took it to a guy to put on a new one. I was informed that this one was rebuilt -his words-. This is not the same carb that was on the car when i took it to him. And the "choke" you talk about stays open unless manually closed. Im not with the car right now but i do recall wires on the passenger side that connect into a wire harness.

midias

That means it is time to find someone who knows what they are doing or better yet learn to DIY.

Sounds like the previous owner hacked up the car with fairly impressive lack of skill and then it was further hacked by whoever you took it to.

What was on there before was it a Q jet? I am going to guess not the factory carb because of the vac distributor. Does the car stay running if you feather the throttle and let it warm up for a little?

Have you check the fuel flow?

Do the float bowls fill up?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Is it a mechanical or electrical fuel pump?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Okay, that helps. Although you don't "bore out" a 305 and get a 350 - it requires a 350 block (which may have been over-bored 0.030" during a rebuild, but "bored out" is an over-used and misleading phrase).

Your original description sounded like it never started. Since it once ran, it does sound more like a fuel delivery issue. Most likely, since you already replaced the fuel filter, it is the fuel pump. But if the car sat around for a long time, the sock on the pickup in the tank could be clogged. If the fuel pump doesn't fix it, that's probably where you're going next.

What fuel pump did you get? '86 had an engine-mounted mechanical with a return line. That's the best type to get, and a replacement '86 305 pump should be fine. A Carter 6626 is a little better, but probably isn't necessary.

midias

It would not be a terrible idea to take a ton of pictures when you go back to see the car.

Harleyquinn

Harleyquinn

had to find someone to help with the choke demo while i recorded but this is what its doing right now

https://youtu.be/SwmGmz8G75k

Rancid87

The choke should stay open when the car warms up so that part looks like it is working normally. Can you take a video if it trying to start and run?

Harleyquinn

This is the first time its run this long. Now that i know a bit more about how a carb actually works.

Rancid87

It looks to be running pretty good once it warms up. I'm not sure where you are located and the temp there but even on the coldest days in NJ I can usually get my car or truck to start and run without a choke. What RPM does it idle at when you have the choke open? The idle will be a little faster with the choke closed than it will be the choke open. Also, when you start the engine when it is cold (choke closed) how long before the choke opens up on its own? It shouldn't take more than a few minutes most times with an electric choke. If it isn't opening on its own you may want to check that you have 12 volts going to the choke and you have a good ground. If you do the choke may just need an adjustment.

Looks like you are getting it figured out!

dlinger

iTrader: (4)

Yes, the flap you are messing with in this video is the choke. It should be controlled by the black circular that says Holley and has a wire connected to it. I am not sure exact connection configuration as my Holley had a mechanical manifold thermo. Proper procedure to start a carb is to push the accelerator to the floor once. The choke flap should close. Then you turn the car over to start it. Once it starts the choke will open, possibly just slightly depending on the temp controlled by the black holley. The warmer it is, the more it will open. Once car is warmed up the flap should be completely open.

dlinger

iTrader: (4)

Again, you are closing the choke flap. It should be open when running, how far depends on how warm the engine is. The flap has a small rod connecting to the black Holley which controls how far it is open. These are the primary's.

You do not have a flap on the secondary as they do not open until car is warmed up, and another mechanism releases so when the vacuum calls for them to open they will.

When you press on the accelerator, do you have any hesitation at all?

midias

Is this your first carb?

Many take time to warm up and if the choke is not right then you will manually have to manipulate thew gas until it is running.

It looks like you are learning about them. You will be an expert soon enough

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Harley, you are missing the choke lever, the former owner more than likely removed it or forgot to install it, and simply held the throttle to warm it up manually. Buy yourself a choke kit from Holley based on the type of carburetor you're running (model number) to fix the issue because the kit will come with the lever you need...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I agree, except for the part about flooring it. 1/3-ish throttle is all it should take. More doesn't help except possibly on really cold days.

It looks to me like the lever is visible in the video. However, there doesn't appear to be any connection between the choke flap and the thermostat coil. I'd start there before getting out the plastic.

For the record, as illustrated in this thread, thorough & accurate descriptions of the symptoms, photos, and videos if possible, are invaluable for these internet diagnostic exercises.

Harleyquinn

Thank you. You are correct. The pin that is supposed to sit in the coil was not in. After putting the choke assembly back together it started to work properly. And as far as accurate descriptions ill work on it. I know how to pull it apart and put it back together. So the car lingo im learning. Which is half of my battle when looking for help. So ive been trying to upload as many photos and videos as possible.

And for the others who took time to comment thank you. You guys are the bomb, is be lost on this project without the input and advice.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Five7, the lever behind the choke housing, not the rod attached to the lever up top, as that I seen in the video too. He was moving it with his finger so easily and it was not staying closed which led me to believe the lever behind the choke housing was either missing or intentionally disconnected by the former owner...

That is why I said lever, and not rod, the end from the lower side of the rod connects to the lever behind the choke housing just like the upper side. The bottom was moving but the rod could have been hung up on the plastic. But anyways, glad you figured it out...