What i want to do. Want to get rid of my Q-jet as here in NZ parts are to hard to find etc. I want to put in a Holley 650. My question is what more will i need to change to make this work fit etc the q-jet is partly computer controlled? i want it to be as simple as i can I'm keen to get rid of this computer rubbish... Im pretty new to this I'm only 24 etc so learning the ropes. My reason for the swap is like i say parts for a start but also my qjet has been tuned etc ran great for about 3 months but now it seems to have an intermittent fault again. I want to do a motor swap at some point so I'm trying to spend as least amount of money as i can on the 305 but at this stage i still need it running. My car is a 87 305 camaro fully standard as far as i know has full flow headers and new exhaust to the back (flow master) Also has all smog removed from previous owner we do not need this in NZ. Any advice and comments are welcome. cheers

 

Depends on if your Holley is a square bore or spread bore. The Qjet is a spread bore, and so is the intake. So to go to a square bore holley you need an adapter or a different intake. Have to be careful with either option, because the typical 1" Mr Gasket adapter that's so common over here won't let the aircleaner fit under a thirdgen hood anymore. The fuel line from the pump to the carb probably won't fit the Holley. The throttle/tv cable brackets won't be right for the Holley. Probably have to adapt the cables, and mess around a bit to get the geometry right. And you'll need a vacuum advance HEI distributor. Stock aircleaner won't fit a Holley without adding a spacer to lift the aircleaner up high enough to clear the fuel bowls.

Holley does or did make a Qjet replacement carb that would sorta bolt right on, but they're less common than Qjets over here, so there I'd expect they're non-existant. Holley made various spread bore carbs too, but they're far less common than their square bore carbs.

Easy way to go is to stick with the Qjet. If it works it's a better match than a Holley anyway.

 

cheers for the fast reply. i would keep my q-jet if i could get it to run good all the time just starting not to trust it will get me home on trips... More details of my issue if you have any advice on this. Car runs fine 90% of the time but then when my service engine light comes on the car seems to bog out almost feels like its going to stall at a stop sign. fells to me that its flooding maybe due to the choke? If i leave the car for a couple of weeks and then go to start it it really cranks for a long time before it kicks into life could this also be connected? I'm talking 30seconds of cranking. battery etc fine.

 

Look here: https://cliffshighperformance.com
This will keep the conversion SIMPLE.

 

 

if you want to troubleshoot, pull the codes.

If you want to swap, prepare to buy a replacement carburetor, distributor, associated brackets for the TV cable, etc. and find an alternate method of engaging converter lock up.

 

While I like Holleys for certain applications, I'd keep the Q-jet...

 

Apart from the holley bit i removed the ccc from this exact vehicle.

Youll need a vac advance dist
you will probably need a new intake or a spacer plate for the squarebore carb and a geometry corrector bracket
Youll also need a way to lockout the converter in the 700r4.

Vac advance dist is like a 10 min job, the most irritating bit is the lockout. I grabbed a pressure switch for it and im not particularly happy with the results. It works, but without any real kickdown function (unless you start inventing solutions) its lags a bit when you plant your foot. I'm currently putting a toggle in between the power and the pressure switch as i dont do a huge amount of highway driving.

Few strange things, your fuel prime for the tank pump will probably stop working but theres ways around that such as a momentary priming switch, a delay timer etc. apart from that its pretty straight forward.

 

I would order a new Q jet and stay that route. No real point in going holley it wont run as well on a properly running CCC 305 like yours. MPG will suffer as well.

If you insist on it the list was given but add an wide band A/F meter and a vac gauge so you can properly tune the holley. Also read the holley tuning sticky at the top of the forum.

 

 

 

Thanks everyone for all the comments and advice. If I was to stick with my Q-jet what and how is the best way to get a new one that will replace my old one? Also since the smog has all been removed is there anything I should do/ change tuning wise? Cheers again

 

depends on if you want to keep the computer controlled scenario going - nothing really changes

i wasnt a fan, it didnt take much to upset the applecart and the ignition modules in the stock dizzys were pretty terrible.

If you want to get rid of it and keep the Q-jet (chef recommends),grab a vac advance distributor then find an older non computer q jet, grab the numbers, order a kit for it and spend an hour doing a rebuild - dont let the internet scare you off, the Q-jet comes apart and goes back together pretty easy.

for tuning, play with the mixture rod sizes and the air door tension until you get it right. cliff ruggles makes some good books, but if you are lazy

combine this guys video -

with this guys video series -

 

Look at this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-P...hafflQ&vxp=mtr

 

One Holley option that's a bit less invasive than some others, would be the 6210.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...t/parts/0-6210

650 CFM; manual secondaries, double-pumper; your fuel line bolts RIGHT INTO it without a bunch of fire hazard rubber hose; your throttle cable hooks RIGHT UP if you buy the right kits, unlike most other Holleys or Edelbrock; fits your intake.

You'd still need a non-computer distributor.

There's no such thing as "partly" computer-controlled. Either it is, or it isn't. Which do you have?

Regardless, if your current carb isn't effed up somehow, you'll gain NOTHING by swapping it. The carb isn't what makes the car slow. Or for that matter, unreliable. Unless it's efffffed up.

Tell us WHY you want to swap the carb, without a bunch of "computer rubbish" talk which is just RUBBISH of a different sort. The underlying reason for wanting something often illustrates the best path for getting it.

Best thing for you to do may well be, fix the "intermittent fault"; which not only gives you a good-running car for the least money, but also, gives you some LEARNING on how to work on it. How to tune it. How to troubleshoot. If there's ONE THING you'll find out by swapping carbs, it would be, HOW MANY DIFFERENT WAYS THERE ARE, for things to go wrong, which you NOW have to figure out. Just like you are trying to avoid figuring out on your stock setup, except, A WHOLE LOT more variables thrown into the mix.