I have replace the computer contral on the motor and have an Edelbrock 1406 carb with electric choke. What does this choke need to function and what are the connections? Does it need 12v all the time and a ground? 12v when key is on and ground? 12v while cranking? Please help. Thanks



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1986 IROC
New Crate 350 w/Vortec Heads, Edelbrock 2116 Vortec Manifold, Edelbrock Performer 2102 Cam, Edelbrock 1406 carb, Hedman shorty headers, Flowmaster Catback, Rebuilt 700r4 w/vette servo, etc..

I haven't seen the choke on the Edelbrocks specifically, but in general, you need a complete circuit for any electrical component to work. If you only have one wire/connector coming from the choke thermostat, then the ground is through the carb. If two, one is power and the other ground.

The info with the carb should have told you the power requirements, but I've never seen one that didn't require 12v when the key is on.

I hope you put a non-computer, vacuum/mechanical advance distributor on when you changed the carb.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited October 08, 2000).]

Connect the negative terminal on the choke to any convenient point on the engine. I tapped a hole on my alternator bracket for it.

If your car was carbureted originally, you can use the existing choke wire and connector on the positive terminal on the choke. If not, you can connect the choke to a 12V circuit that's hot when the key is in the run position. If you do this, be sure not to leave the key in the run position too long before starting the car, or else the choke will start opening before the car is even started.

If you were a little more ambitious, you might be able to put a relay in to keep the choke off unless the car is running, like they did with the factory carbureted cars.

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1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6A Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, HEI Distributor w/ Adjustable Advance, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flowmaster Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

Thanks Apeiron. I hooked it up today.

Hhows it working?
I've been considering hooking up mine.

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Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.

Seems to be functioning properly. I just got the motor running and do not drive the car that much. I am still working on hooking up all the BS stuff and need to get the carb tuned in. I will let you know more after I get the carb tuned on Tuesday.

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1986 IROC
New Crate 350 w/Vortec Heads, Edelbrock 2116 Vortec Manifold, Edelbrock Performer 2102 Cam, Edelbrock 1406 carb, Hedman shorty headers, Flowmaster Catback, Rebuilt 700r4 w/vette servo, etc..

I just found this post while I was trying to figure out exactly how an electric choke works. I think I got it now. A standard thermostat or old style automatic choke uses a bimetallic strip/coil that expands as it heats up due to changes in air temperature around it. In an electric setup, however, electical resistance causes the coil to heat up and expand. This is why the choke would open a little while after power is applied to the wire, regardless of if the engine is running, right? Anyways, just trying to make sure I get it. I will go out and test it tonight. Interesting stuff.

thanks,
mike

Yes, that's correct. The "old style" hot-air automatic chokes usually had a port to let in hot exhaust to heat the coil.

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1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

Actually, the hot air choke did not let exhaust in to heat the bi-metal spring. That would carbon it up real fast. The hot air choke did just that, it used heated air from the exhaust crossover in the int. man. or from around the exh. man. ! Just my .02 !

-Auggie-

Right, sorry, my bad.

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1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

Thanks for helping clear that up. I played with it a little last nite. Took off the air cleaner, propped the trottle open to take pressure off the fast idle cam, turned the key to 'on' and then sat there and watched the choke plate. Ended up opening after five minutes or so. And the little rivet holding the coil to the choke cover gets HOT!