the engine in my sig is the first one i have done and i don't know what to do with the choke. how does it work is it supposed to be half open when starting or fully open or what? thanks sorry for the stupid questions. oh yeah its a 750cfm manual choke edelbrock

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LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

Supposed to work like this:

On a cold morning (overnight cold) when you first tap the gas (to unload the choke linkage and allow it to move) the choke should SNAP closed fully. Also, the cold idle linkage engages and holds the throttle slightly open to raise idle speed (cold engine won't idle at regular 600 RPM curb idle speeds very well). Start the engine and as soon as it fires the little vacuum can on the pass side of the carb with pull closed, as it does so it's got a little arm that will pop the choke open about 1/8-3/16".

That's how it will remian until the choke element heats up and the choke will begin to open even further in about 1 minute, getting fully open in about 3-4 minutes. Once fully open idle speed will also return to it's regular setting (600 RPM or so) as the fast idle linkage is tied in with the choke.

 

so are you saying i don't have to do anything to the choke? it should do all that on its own right? thanks for your help

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LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

If it doesn't SNAP shut as Damon says, open the throttle lever a little by hand and give the fast idle cam a few taps. If that makes it close then you need to lube the linkage, it seems to be a common problem with new Edelbrocks.

 

Oh, whoops, you said MANUAL choke. That's different.

 

Oh, whoops, you said MANUAL choke. That's different.

 

The info you were given was for an automatic choke. If by "manual", you mean no thermostat, then you need different instructions (given below). If by "manual" you mean a thermostat that has no wire, and is therefore not "electric", it's still automatic and the info above applies.

For a true "manual" choke, you need to get a pull cable into the driver's compartment. When hooked up to the carb, pulling the **** out all the way should fully close the choke butterfly. This should be done with the accelerator pushed down slightly so the fast idle cam will engage. Start the engine, and immediately push the cable in slightly (typically about 1/8 the full travel does nicely). Keep pushing it in a little more as it warms up, until it is fully in within 3-5 minutes (at which time the butterfly should be fully open). The engine should run as well then as it does when fully warm, although it might take a little longer in cold weather/climates.

Why anyone would get a manual choke for a driver is beyond me (some people think of them as "performance" carbs - only way that applies is if you need the choke fully open at the strip, but keep the engine cool). They're cheaper, and perhaps you just didn't know. So, hope that helps.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, WP 305 heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

i'm not sure if its a true manual does anyone know if the edelbrock is a true manual? it was a good deal so i got, should i get the electric choke conversion kit then?

------------------
LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

[This message has been edited by super83Z (edited February 25, 2001).]

 

If it had a manual choke you would know it because you'd have to pull a cable to activate it.

You may be talking about the fast-idle cam that they come with.

I have not run a fast-idle cam OR any kind of choke since about 1988 on any of my carbs.

"Why anyone would get a manual choke for a driver is beyond me"

five7, yeah exactly. Who needs a choke?

 

ODB are you saying you don't need a choke to start the car or run it properly. cuz if thats so i'm going to cancel my order to summit for the electric coil conversion kit

 

The choke is only used when starting the car cold. You can just not use it if you want, but you'll have to sit in the car feathering the throttle in cold weather to keep it running until it warms up. It will also take longer to warm up than it would if you used the choke.

 

the choke forces a rich condition for cold running.
If you plan to drive it in extreme cold then you may want a choke.

I don't mind warming the engine up for a couple minutes with no choke.
depends on your climate and preference.

 

In Brockton, you need the choke if you drive all year round...electric is worth every penny.

 

yeah i got my conversion kit and installed it how can i test it out? can i just hook it up to a 12v source and what should happen?

------------------
LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

Connect it to a +12v source that's on when the key is in the RUN position. When starting, don't leave the key too long in the RUN position before cranking or else the choke will open too soon.

 

thanks for all the help guys! i think the kit i got is bad because i spent a whole night working on it and then i just touched the red wire to a constant power source and nothing happened i then took the black disc that the wires hook up to to see if i could see something happening and nothing happened so i'm going to return it and get another one. i think it's just bad cuz the coil inside didn't move or anything when the wire was touching the battery wire.

------------------
LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

That kit has 2 terminals on it, right? If so, you did ground the other one, didn't you?

 

yeah there are three mounting screws for the coil and the instructions point to one of them and say to ground the wire to that screw. so when it didn't work the first time i took the coil off and wired it to a ground and touched the positive terminal to the battery and nothing happened so i figure the coil is bad.

------------------
LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, flowtech shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust systemm, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, B&M shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.