Hey guys,

Since i bought the car the tonneu relase has not worked at all, now i think this is due in part to the power pulldown motor not functioning properly, so here's what i am expireincing...

So the Hatch motor when plugged in keeps whining as in trying to either pull down or push up (i cant tell which) The motor was jammed down, and i plugged her in and pretty much forced/helped it reach the top. Now i noticed there was a blue grease on the tracks, and in, what i guess is a resevior for the sliding mech. I looked at the bottom of the resevior and saw that there was a hole i believe there should be a plug there as there are threaded holes. Now the shaft itself its really dry and im sure thats why it's stuck, however is there supposed to be Blue grease inside the resevior, or is there some other form of lubrication ? Also any links/expirence with a gereral overhaul of the pulldown mech ?

Thanks !

 

Yes the trunk pull-down unit being messed has caused the problems you're experiencing with the tonneau solenoid release not functioning. The trunk must be fully closed by the trunk pull-down unit or the tonneau solenoid won't pop. This is a safety feature so you don't open the tonneau while the trunk lid is open.

The problem you're describing with the trunk (hatch) pull-down unit continuing to run, yet failing to raise or lower is the classic symptom of a broken gear nut. Read the Tech Article I wrote for repairing the 1986-87 & 1988-91 hatch pull-down units.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

do some verts hane a hatch pulldown unit like the hard tops have?

sounds like I am glad I don't have one

Ryan

 

Yes, 1987-91 had the hatch pull-down. 1992 got the slam latch. You also got the cheapo looking molded carpeting in the hatch area trim covering the passenger-side spare tire and not much on the left rather than the nicer looking modified hatch trim pieces. My trunk pull-down unit is now over 15 years old and still funtions fine. I added a solenoid release to mine, but otherwise it is untouched.

Lon

 

Thanks I just figure it's one less thing to break

Ryan

 

Hey lon,

Since the switch in the ceter is for the tonneau, can i wire up one to release the trunk like the hard tops ?

Thanx !

 

You mean like I did? I grabbed a trunk release button (located in the glove compartment) from a mid 80's Caprice and installed it in the center console storage compartment of my 'vert. You'll have to run the wiring and relay as well. I grabbed the wiring from a donor car.

Lon

 

I'll be taking the cover off mine, and I'll grab a shot or two. I have always used the two pull cords for the tonneau.
My Eldorado had the pull down, and anyone who's seen the remake of Gone in 60 Seconds with Nick Gage and Angolina Jolie will recall when the Cadillac stolen from China Town has something to hide in the trunk, when the cops show up, the lid is slammed to close it fast, This is one sure way to shorten the life of a working unit, and in reality, something to alway avoid

My 88 Deville has a perfect working electric motor. They will last considering how little use they really get. They seem plentiful enough on eBay, me thinks
BILL

 

Yea, just watch out for those "known good" or "worked when removed" units. You won't believe how many calls I get for repair parts to rebuild those supposedly good units selling on eBay.

Lon

 

Why do I see several of the metal contact latches, and the mating swivel top on the decklids (on various examples here >the site)? Wasn't this done away with for the convertible from hatchback mod? If you can point out, in an edited pic, the functions and intended useage, I'd appreciate it.
I did put the shot I got on both my computers, but I think it's still too big. (yep, still need to shrink it down)
BILL

 

On 82-86 models the contact pad and spring-loaded hatch contact pins powered the optional rear window wiper motor. From 1987-90 it powered the HMSL (High-Mount Stop Light). I know the 'verts continued using the same HMSL through 92, but I think they changed to being hard wired.

Lon

 

For the convertible, I'm still confused, how is it still useful?
Here's that pic, downsized:
BILL

 

Bill Speed....do you see that white PB switch with the red wire mounted just under the latch assembly in photo. Well that's a lockout switch for the tonneau soleniod release...when the motor drives the latch up the PB opens and prevents the tonneau from operating. Any open in that circuit disables the tonneau soleniod.

I was not in a position to compare converts nor did I have a convert manual.....so when I removed the console switch panel while trying to understand the center switch function I saw that a previous owner had rewired the switch for some other function..? I wire the center switch back by color matching the wires and bingo the tonneau cover opens....I had always thought the center switch was for trunk release which was what I had hoped to do. I now know that the pull strings are for emergency use.
I found a clever (I thought) method to get an electric solenoid installed. I bought an aftermarket kit which fitted easily to the existing key latch (have both), installed a low profile push button into the underside hatch lid and hid it using thin foam rubber pad across the full width above the plate area...where you hand lift the hatch, ran a wire down the hinge arm and through another switch mounted near the trunk light. This way I have a hidden button release and also the option to disable the button and use the key.
Can someone tell me...my gas struts hold the lid open OK...but should they also provide assist to the lift. I need to lift the hatch, no pop up or assist once the lid is released....do my struts need gas????