When I bought my Camaro vert, three of my 4 stock speakers were blown. I searched on here, and could not find a consensus on what would be a direct fit, and I am doing everything in my power to avoid hacking this car up. So here is my story, for those other old guys who want to retain the stock head unit, but need new, better speakers with no amp, and are a direct fit. Hopefully, it will assist another old guy who is looking for the same.

For the front, I used Kicker DS46. 50 watt, 2 way. They are drop-in right out of the box, and need no modification. Fit like a charm.
For the rear, I used Kicker DS65. 200 watt, 2 way. They have plenty of pre-drilled holes, and one set of 4 holes line up perfectly. Be sure to center the new speaker, or the factory grill will not fit in it's factory holes.

Sound great. I'm an old-skool rock fan, and they are perfect, just what I wanted. I could not care less about thumping bass. I can listen to hair metal all day!

Some pictures:
picture 1 - factory rear speaker measured 7" diagonal, from the corners.
picture 2 - factory rear speaker measured 6" across, at the middle. I have no clue what size this is
picture 3 - my new replacement rear speaker measures 6.5" across

 

picture 4 - shows the old rear speaker height versus the new Kickers. The Kickers are shorter, and fit great in the tiny space behind the rear seat panels
picture 5 - the only modification I had to do. Took a file on one of the rear speaker panels, and made a little more room for the center cone. Had I lined them up better, I think I could have avoided this step. In hindsight, I probably would have cut a little more of an opening in the fiberglass panel than the factory did, but the panels have just been re-upholstered, and I did not want to screw that up
picture 6 - be professional, and get a harness adapter. A pair of adapters are less than $15 on ebay.

 

Thanks for doing something for us "Old School Guys". I might do the same.

 

Thanks for the info. I was trying to figure it out yesterday but Im.going to try this today.

 

I put 6.5 infinity kappas in the rear and had to get a 1 inch spacer for the speakers to clear and it looks good also. I got bose kick panels and mounted infinity kappas in that and kappa plates in the dash. It sounds awesome.

 

Hello i have a 90Conv 5spd, has any1 replaced their top with 1from Ebay? If so is the quality good has the seller claims? Thank you,

 

This has absolutely nothing to do with vert speakers. Please start your own thread, or better yet, use that box at the top of the page that says

 

Ok, cool..On speakers the best are Pioneers, Alpine, Kenwood,6x9 4way on the back, n in the front the store should be able to guide u has to what fits in the front... Fronts are cheap priced like $20 bucks back about $80...

 

I am currently running some old school Soundstream exact 5.2 in my rear panels wich are 5 1/4" coaxial speakers, but since one woofer blew last summer, I am going to try the Focal 130 CVX wich are another coaxial sets in the same size...not the high end audio but way much better than what the factory installed in our convertible ride!

As for the front, I really don't like the dash speakers sound, specially in the convertible with the dropped top...It wasn't really better in my previous hard top but at least, we could still hear it even with the wide opened windows. So I ended up deleting them a while ago and went with some Q-Logic kick panels with some Eclipse SC8254 components couple years ago. Now it is time to upgrade so I will install some Focal components in there and then, I might be settle for another 10 years LoL

But as you said, you did not want to install any amplifier so you wouldn't benefit wich such a setup, but since you like to push your original receivers at its limit, you wouldn't be able to blow your speakers with high end stuff...

 

I absolutely love the sound from my new speakers pictured above. I spent way less than $100 on all four, I think they sound great, and I don't have to worry about them being stolen. Win win win.

 

Thanks for the write-up. I'll probably be doing something like this as I am trying very hard to retain as much of the original looks as I can. If I do modify something it needs to be easily swap-able to factory (with the exception of the SFC's welded in). Thanks again.

 

THANK YOU!!! This will be my project for this summer.. You rock!

 

I thought you had to use 10 ohm impedance speakers with the stock unit? From what I heard most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm and over time the 4 ohm speakers will burn out the stock unit.

 

Don't know anything about ohm's, or impedance.

What I do know is that 20+ years ago, when I was a young buck with an 87 Camaro and about a million cassettes, it took me about 6 months to blow the speakers in that car. It's probably why I have hearing damage now. Anyway, I went to Ames (you youngsters won't remember Ames, they were the dept store of choice before WalMart ran them out of towns across America) and bought the Spark-O-Matic speaker pack. They were advertised at like 200 watts. They were in the car for 20 yeras, and were still in the car when I sold it in January of this year. So I don't know if those speakers or these speakers cause any damage to the head units, but that head unit was still kicking in that car when I sold it. If this head unit lasts 20 years, hell, I'll probably be totally deaf by then and not care about the car stereo

 

I think if i remember my days of car audio right if the factory speakers were 10 ohm speakers then a 4 ohm would given you roughly 2.5 X the wattage from the head unit.

so if the factory speakers were 10W @10 Ohm then if you put 4ohm speakers in it's place the head unit would put out 25W. basically the higher the ohm the harder it has to push to get through, if the speakers are low ohm they'll move with less effort (Ohm's Law).

some one correct me if i'm wrong but i think this is right.

 

http://www.prestonelectronics.com/audio/Impedance.htm

This explains it.

Why are ohms important?
Two reasons:
(1) If you connect your amplifier to the wrong speaker impedance, you risk damaging the amp. In tube amps, too high a load impedance (or a disconnected load) can result in damage to the output tubes or output transformer, while in solid state amps, if the speaker impedance is too low, the amplifier will tend to overheat and more power is used up in the amplifier than is delivered to the speaker. Too many speakers on a solid state amp can burn up the power output section.

(2) The amplifier will deliver maximum power (volume) to the speaker when the speaker impedance matches (is equal to) the internal impedance (called the OUTPUT IMPEDANCE) of the amplifier. Too low an impedance will result in weak output and poor tone. If the speaker impedance is higher than that of the amplifier, its power output will again be less than it is capable of.

 

Does a stock head unit have a built-in amp? Seriously, I don't know. I'm not running any other amps between the head unit and the speakers.

 

Yes, every stock unit has a built in amp. I replaced my rear speakers but used 10 ohm speakers. My UX1 is happy that way.