Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Due to realities of limited funds, space, and time (yes, the Einstein kind), I am thinking my Vert might become a "Saved the Vert" and I will part ways with it and move on to another project. This car has been handily saved and I just don't easily have room to keep it around nor the money and time in the immediate future to do a high hp, high revving small block TPI - which is my idea of the finished product.

Nonetheless, I love driving it and am in no hurry to sell it which is why I am switching it to a T5 manual- more fun stuff.

That being said, I started thinking about how this might affect the value of the car. It's an original auto IROC with 120,000. It's a driver, not a show car but looks good. It is the original motor and trans in there. I think I have read that most were manuals so then I thought which would be worth more. Is the auto vert that rare? If I'm selling the two side by side, which would fetch a higher price? Maybe no difference?

WildCard600

I would think a car in original auto configuration would sell for more than one that has been converted to manual.

*EDIT*

I think if you are looking to do a "build" you are better off getting a "cheap" car that has some flaws and using that as a base IMO.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

With very few exceptions, original is always more valuable than modified. One of several value detractors, to modified vehicles, is the modifications suit the owners "dream". At auction, or in the marketplace, it is tough to find one (or 2 at auction)buyers, with the same "Dream". There are exceptions.

The other problem, many mods detract from the "turn the key and go" simplicity of a factory engineered car. The "Noise Vibration Harshness" (NVH) factor often increases to levels, beyond what the general car buyer wants (IE Poly-Whatever control arm bushings, lowered suspensions, troublesome headers, etc)

These days, a manual trans will eliminate the VAST MAJORITY of female buyers AND lots of male buyers, also.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Modifications turn a lot of people off because it's OBVIOUS the car was modified. Mostly because people cut corners and do half the job, or they lose interest before they finish, etc. It's the kind of thing that turns a project car into a parts car. If it's done well enough that no one can tell it's a conversion, and everything works exactly as intended, no hacked holes, no missing rubber boots, no reverse lights that don't work, or engine that stalls because the computer doesn't know if it's P-N-D. Done right you're probably not going to HURT the value, but you're probably not going to increase it either.

A 100k + mile car isn't really what a collector would be looking for, the kind of buyer that'd pay extra for all original, but if you do a half donkey hack job, you'll run off anyone with any common sense because they'll wonder what else you left half finished.

If you're going to sell it, I'd put as little money into changing things to meet your personal preferences as possible. No one is going to pay extra for anything you change. Fixing things won't really ADD value, it will only restore the value to match the market. What I mean is a $3,000 car with a $500 problem, may suddenly be a $2,500 car. Might even drop more than the cost of the repair. But a $2,500 car with a $500 repair, doesn't become a $3,200 or $3,500 car because it's been fixed, it just goes back to being a $3,000 car.

Hope that all makes sense. FWIW.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Most verts were auto, not too many 5 speeds.That doesnt mean go ahead & do the swap, just saying, but who am i to say not to.

ironwill

Generally, an all-original, numbers-matching vehicle in excellent condition will have a higher monetary value to a potential buyer than one that has been modified away from stock. There are variables involved though, of course, one being who you're asking. From what I've seen on this site at least, originality isn't as valued as a car with performance mods.

However, it's your car; you have to decide for yourself where the value lies---in your own enjoyment of the vehicle or how much $$$ you might be able to get if/when you determine it's time to sell.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

I agree with everyone else, here. Personally, if I were going to sell it, I wouldn't bother with a T5 swap.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

If I do it, it will be a 100% clean job. The only way anyone will be able to tell is to look at the VIN or RPOs. Huh. Didn't know most were autos.

Arctic White 91 RS

Seems to me that with 120,000 miles automatically eliminates the "collector buyers" so "original numbers matching" amounts to basically nothing regardless future value. With a 305 that's probably especially true.

Mod's are almost always a big negative if you decide to sale the car.

The younger generation of girls are as likely/unlikey to drive stick as the boys if they are into cars. With overall the younger generation mostly not knowing how-to drive stick. A lot of potential buyers 45 year old and younger aren't going to want to drive stick either. There are also a lot of older generation that will talk the talk about loving stick - but it's just talk

My LS swapped 91 RS went from being an auto to T56 and I like it However, the swap to manual added noise, vibration and harshness compared to the auto. I have no intention of selling my old 400,000 miles daily driver So the RS is specd to make me happy My 99 TA is also stick and it's harsher than my 02 Z28 that's an auto.

I've racked up 250,000 miles of driving stick in these cars and about 500,000 miles of automatic driving. In my opinion any stick car needs to be putting at least 300 whp to the ground to be acceptable as a driver. 400 who is better. In a 3rd Gen 450 whp a good sweet spot.




I had a 91 RS Convertible also until last year and it was a nice quite, soft riding cruiser. I would have never considered swapping that car a stick. I loved being about to cruise in town and heavy traffic was a breeze.

Of course it's really all about enjoying the car. If you've driven a 3rd Gen with a stick before and really liked it - I say go for it. If at all possible get a T56 Magnum for your 3rd Gen. They rock The RPM L6 Magnum in my TA - I really wish was in the RS

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

Sticks are DEAD in America's car sales these days.

Arctic White 91 RS

Used car salesman said he can't move a sporty stick car these days. He said the teenagers and twenty somethings hate sticks because shift shift gets in the way of texting, Instagram & Facebook updates while driving.

ThePain

Damn shame...I WISH my RS was a manual... Of course, I also wish my RS was a Z28