When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ConvertiblesDiscussed here are problems and solutions to convertible specific questions, including difficult to find part numbers and other convertible tech help.
Hi Guys
I need some help. My trunk doesn’t close all the way down. (1989,IROC, Convertible) Here some more details. I replaced the motor and installed back. Installation went good. But when I close the trunk the motor doesn’t pull the trunk down. I have no idea what trigger the motor from pulling it down?
I noticed the magnet mechanizing and I clean it so there will be good connection.
I checked the relay and I think it’s working well (I hear a click when I connect and disconnect power)
I did noticed that I have one wire that not connected. Picture attached. I don’t know where it need to be connected. Any help/tip will be appreciated. (Also if someone have a picture of the wiring in the trunk that will be great)
Meir
Does the hatch unit move at all when activated? if it does, you might have to adjust the bracket up or down slightly to make sure it deactivates the switch appropriately. Here is a troubleshooting guide to help you out.
Also, on that page is a wiring diagram for the hatch unit. It's also attached here.
I believe the trunk motor you have in your convertible is from a T-top or hardtop thirdgen. The black wire looks like its powered by a relay to automatically unlock and release the trunk. The trunk motor I have in my convertible does not have that, my trunk only unlocks by a key. It doesn't look like that wire needs to be hooked up for the trunk to operate correctly. I hope that helps.
Last edited by IROCUDREW; May 26, 2019 at 02:05 PM.
The black wire you are holding goes to the hot wire that comes from the hatch release relay. It powers the hatch release solenoid, that silver thing attached with a 10mm screw to the latch.
A few times my pull down motor would activate without the hatch latching, the motor would pull the locking mechanism down. I would then have to fiddle blindly with a screw driver to flip the position switch so that the locking mechanism would come back up. If only the switch was more easily accessible.....
A few times my pull down motor would activate without the hatch latching, the motor would pull the locking mechanism down. I would then have to fiddle blindly with a screw driver to flip the position switch so that the locking mechanism would come back up. If only the switch was more easily accessible.....
If your hatch motor has gone down without the latch capturing the hatch hook it will only go down until the hatch hook is no longer pressing on the striker-sensing switch. The motor will ONLY power down when the striker switch is being pressed. At this point you'd need to reach in and press your finger on the striker switch which will turn on the motor and continue the down cycle. When it has reached the bottom of the down cycle you'll hear a loud CLICK of the reversing switch being tripped to stop the down cycle. At this point release the striker switch and the motor will cycle up and again CLICK tripping the reversing switch again to end the up cycle. The pull-down is again re-set and ready to do it's job. This all assumes the pull-down unit is in good working condition. Conditions such as a broken housing, broken guides, bad reversing or striker switch, broken gear nut, dried grease, broken latch mechanism all can contribute to the pull-down not functioning correctly. I have all the parts to repair these and help get yours working again properly. What I don't have is the kit to convert it to a slam latch. That would consist of dry wall screws, baling wire, chewing gum, welding wire, wood stick, epoxy and bungee cord (it never ceases to amaze me all things I'll see being used to kludge a fix).
