OK my problem is my 1992 1le z-28. Today to make sure my gauge isnt wrong I took off my radiator cap and started my car. I put a baking thermometer in the coolant and just as my gauge tells me it got to over 230 degrees (Thats as far as the thermometer goes) before my fan came on. According to my gauge in the car it was just past the first little red line before the fan came on. And it went off right before the last little yellow line. I have had it to several people including the biggest chevy dealership in town which ripped me off and thought they could get away with it. They tried to tell me my problem was fixed and they didnt do nothing as far as I am concerned they had my car for over a week and charged me almost 700 dollars for my car to sit on there lot. I told him they were going to give me my money back or I was going to leave there and go straight to a lawyer. That got them to let me talk to the owner of the dealership. I showed him it wasnt fixed and he wrote me a check.

Anyways what do I need to do? Can anyone tell me how many relays or sensors or whatever i need to look at? Is my car supposed to do this cause its a 1le? Remember I have the single fan setup cause I dont have A/C. Its really pissing me off when I want to drive it I will be sitting still and it will get almost to the red line but then I start moving and cool it down a little but not enough So I am driving around hot the whole time. Also I have noticed my oil pressure drops a bit when it gets hot so I really need to get it fixed.

Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

heres your simple soln. that should work. Go down by the pass side cyl. head. There you will see a brass fitting in the cyl. head with a single wire connector attached to it. This is your fan switch that controlles the fan. Go to thunderracing or any other retailer and get yourself a hypertech 180 deg fan switch and a 180 deg. thermistat and drain your coolant down and replace the switch and thermistat wiht the ones that you bought. Put a good radiator flush in to clean it all out and them refill your sytem. this should solve everything and only cost around 45 dollars or so.

P.S. I think the 1le uses a fan switch...

 

Hey ma, first..... welcome to the board. Anyways, I hate these problems with the computer turning on the fan at whatever it wants. When I bought ine, it turned the fan on at like 220*, so if I was on the highway, at a constant 2000 RPMs then it would just hover at 220*. This didn't please me. So I did what about 75% of the 3rd gens on this board did. I made my own fan switch for about $15. All you need is about 5 or 6 feet of SPEAKER wire. Tap into the positive wire going to your fan. BTW, I have one fan also. Then run that to a $0.50 switch on your dash and then run it back down the other wire and to the positive terminal of the battery. My car runs at a constant like 150*. I swear, no lyin! I don't know why you wouldn't want to do this. But anyway, that's what evryone does. BTW, to get it to that switch there is a hole in your firewall like below your master cylinder. A big black coil goes through your firewall. Put it through that. Later man,

 

ahhh.. so it has the computer controlling it... sorry, didnt know... You could also get an aftermarket chip that turnes the fans on at a lower temp. Little pricey at 150 dollars or so but youll have the computer turn it on at a lower temp for you (youll also need a new t-stat). Or, you can buy an aftermarket f/s setup. Unlike a switch, these will turn your fan on at a much lower temp than stock. either way, they'll do it automatically ofr you and they wont require your attention.

 

1LE,
If you run a manual switch, use the factory relay so you won't fry the switch or anything else. The fan relay should be next to the battery/radiator. You know the relay works because it's turning on the fan. Then find the green/white wire off the relay and wire in the switch to that wire. When you flip the switch that will ground the green/white wire and your fan will come on.

 

It's easier to tap the ground wire at the temperature sensor going to the fan and run a wire from there to a switch and then to ground on dash. Then you can control the fan without moving positive energy around. Also try a 160* thermostat.

 

ideally u want a 170 therm., but if u cant find one then get a 180, but do not get a 160 because u will have to swap it in and out for different out side temperatures. Read the techincal articles on thirdgen

 

Cannot say for sure about the 1LE, but every TG that uses a single fan setup does NOT use the ECM for any control. The switch for the control of the fan relay is located on the passenger side head. Don't confuse it with the knock sensor. The fan switch is an all brass device with a single wire. With the 1LE setup they may be running a fan switch which turns on at 238 deg, or if they replaced it they put one in for a dual fan setup. On dual fans they kick primary on at about 225, secondary at 238. Maybe they didn't stock the sender for a 1LE. Not the first time I have seen those shenanigans from a dealer. NAPA has two switches they stock, one comes on around 205, and the stock 238. They are $19. Much cheaper than specialty items. Don't bother with switches and the like it is a waste of time. If you are ever in a pinch make up a short jumper with spades that fit the fan relay plug. You ever have a problem you jump the two heavy wires in the plug and the fan will run all the time. I would get the specs on fan turn on for the 1LE first then see if you really have a problem. Don't overlook an intermittent relay, maybe the switch is calling for fan turn on and the relay contacts are getting lazy. Also keep it at the stock 195, or it will never run right.