Im looking to replace the radiator in my 91 Z28 305. Its a highway car with 2.73 gears and I would like to get a reliable radiator that drops right in for a reasonable price. I am not looking for performance on this car, just reliable efficient cooling.
What do you all suggest? I have no idea where to start

 

Use the stock unit. Harrison Thermal div. of GM makes the OE unit and they are of very high quality. If you buy online at places like www.gmpartsdirect.com you pay about the same price as an aftermarket.

 

Larry,
I spent a LOT of time researching this subject. The absolute best deal (in my opinion) is the a guy I found on e-bay, that sells custom built alum radiators for almost any application! He has been doing this for years and took over the business from his boss about 7 years ago. Before he took over the business, his boss started out doing custom rads for Jack Rausche racing among other notable names you have heard in racing! (Hope I spelled that right--Still wish this board had a spellchuck!) He really seems to know his stuff and was a pleasure to talk to! Once I actually receive it I will put a "review" on the board in the appropriate place. He has nothing but 100% positive feedback for his product and service, and U don't get ratings like that by making junk and/or ripping people off!. The one I got had a 419.95 "buy it now price", but I did the auction method and got it for 385.00 + shipping. I don't mean this to sound like an advertisement, but I was IMPRESSED by the overall experience. I am REALLY surprised that this guy is not common knowledge on the 3rd gen site. Maybe he will be in the future. Check him out.

Randy Pettey
rpettey4@comcast.net

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425921915

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sort=3&rows=50

 

Hey Danno,
I went to the GM e address and did not have very good luck! I could not get it to pull up a radiator of any type for my 89 Camaro/350 at the regular site and the alternative site! Am I doing something wrong?

 

Unfortunately I forgot to mention you need the GM part number for that site. The rad from them is 145 bucks for an OE. www.acdelco.com lets you enter in all appropriate information about the vehicle and get an AC Delco number.

 

Anything that's ALL-Aluminum.

 

I got a 3 row copper/brass from radiator doctor. It is a little thicker than the stock 2 row, but went in with no problems. It seems to be doing an excellent job. 100 degrees outside cruisin around town and the temp is about 190-210 and that is without an air dam when I get it on it probably wont get over 200. It was $160 plus tax.

Dont forget to check your cooling fan/fans. If they are electric you could probably upgrade that also and get better cooling. I have a mechanical fan so as long as the belt stays on Im happy.


Radiator doctor is a franchise type deal so just look in your local phone book and there may be one in your area. Most people I have talked to recommend them. Unless money is not an object and you can get an all aluminum radiator for 300+ which is not going to make that much of a difference.

Your car doesnt need to run too cool or it will hurt mileage and maybe even performance. Water temp should stay over 180 degress for best performance from everything I have read on this site. Hope you find something that will work that wont kill your budget.

 

Are you running stock, or any performance mods?

The 3 row I had in my old 89 (got stolen out of my driveway abouta year ago--I cried like a little girl!) was pretty good til we started throwing the performance mods at it.

 

stock 350 only thing not stock is radiator and edlebrock 600cfm carb. Going to add edlebrock intake and some headers with 3 inch exhaust this winter. Maybe some new heads and cam and all that good stuff also if the money fairy comes along and waves her wand at my wallet. Ive only put 1000 miles or so on the new motor. I let it sit too long before I put it in and I have a lifter or something ticking on the passenger side of the engine but I had a monte carlo that had lifters making noises for 5 years and 100000 and it never hurt anything.

Sorry about your car that sux.
My pitbull likes to sleep underneath my car so if someone tries to get it they will be suprised. 80 lbs of muscle and teeth hehe.

WesDog

 

My experience was that I HAD a 3-core brass and copper radiator, and the car wouldn't cool, period. I HAD to run a 195 stat, and the car STILL got to 250 on a hot day. And that was on the stock motor. With the new motor, it was even more ridiculous. The All- Aluminum radiator now cools, too well.

 

Yeah, once U start throwing all the performance mods at it ,U WILL want a good aftermarket alum rad!!!

 

This is what I use, its all aluminum and fits well for an ovesized
Radiator.
Has 2ea 1.5inch cores
I got it at Chargedair.com

here's a pic.

 

Contrary to popular belief, aluminum does not cool as efficiently as copper/brass. The companies that make aluminum radiators will have you believe differently, because it's good for business. I've more or less did my own little poll with radiator guys, and they all prefer copper/brass.

What the aluminum radiator companies say about thicker radiators and the law of diminishing returns is partly true, however, but you'd have to be getting up into the 6 and 7+ cores before you begin to realize that.

Anyway, back to the subject. My IROC runs very hot. I can't keep it below 230 degrees unless it's winter. I simply need a larger radiator, period. It's got a nicely warmed-over 355 4-bolt block with 10:1 compression, ported everything, and an Isky 270 cam, (221 degrees int/exh @ 0.05").

There is a larger radiator, which Carquest can get, and it costs $247. It was recommended to me by a radiator guy, he said it would "solve my problems". It is part number #2311. It wholesales for $147 if you can find a place that'll do that for you.

 

No, brass and copper are SUPPOSED to transfer heat better than aluminum. I think it's the size of the tubes and the thickness of the core that they put in these rads made for our cars. THEY AREN'T BIG ENOUGH!!!!

 

One idea is to use an oil cooler. I know when they started putting the 350's in the F-bodies they employed an oil cooler, but my IROC was originally a 305 TPI California car. When I bought it, the 305 was pretty much done for after 140,000 miles. So I dropped in a 350 4-bolt 10:1 truck motor and because the tuned port was a 1986, it bolted up to the older style heads. Runs great and I love it, but the bigger, much more powerful engine runs really hot in the summer.

I want to try a bigger radiator before I resort to an oil cooler, but I'll cool the oil if I have to.

 

It's true that aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as copper/brass, but there's more to it than that.

The solder between the pipes & fins in a brass/copper radiator doesn't conduct heat as well, but overall heat conductivity is a wash between copper/brass and aluminum radiators.

The bigger issue is core design. Aluminum radiators have larger cores, which provides tube to fin contact area which gives better heat transfer. The copper/brass radiators usually use smaller tubes with a thinner wall thickness. This transfers heat faster, but the brass tubes are coated with solder so that the copper fins can bond.

Overall there's not a hell of a lot of difference when dealing with stock type radiators. Because the aluminum radiators are lighter, your high performance aftermarket stuff is almost all aluminum, and there's not really a brass/copper model that compares.

 

All is now clear.

 

Yeah, right...................

 

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm

 

USE ALUMINUM. You'll never go back to that crappy copper. They're heavy and have crappy heat dissapation compared to aluminum. No matter how many cores.

 

Just to add my 2 cents. I have a 3 core copper/brass radiator and i have no problems cooling. I did alot of research and found out that alot of people forget to figure how much there fan pushes or pulls. A V8 requires a 3300CFM of air movement or so can't remember the exact number but this is close. I was using the sock fan til my aftermarket one came in and i kept running hot still. now i run my fan manually for now( another gm flaw, the stock turn on point for our fans is 220) I currently am running a 16" perma cool fan. PULLS, key word, 3000CFM with very little amp pull. Now i don't run above 160 in 100 degree weather thats with a 160 thermastat. and around 200 in the winter change to a 190 therm.

There are alot of things to look at when doing things to a car. on the topic a radiator alone won't do any good with out a fan and water pump so those are other thing that need to be looked at also. well hope this help and good luck.

Nick

 

Hi all. I used to be in the radiator business. Alumunum does seem to cool a bit better than copper, but not by much. Another problem with copper radiators is they will build up mineral deposits from the water in the antifreeze, causing them to clog up. If you use a copper and brass radiator make sure you use distilled water with your antifreeze!

 

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0008.html

 

On my 1987 Firebird I couldn't get it to cool for anything. New radiatior , new water pump, new 160 degree thermostat no help. I installed a Be Cool aluminum radiatior(PN 62015) with Flex-a-lite dual 12"fans (PN 220) and wired the fans to come on when the ignition switch is on. End of cooling problems, water temp. stays between 160-170 degrees no matter what the outside temp.