Alright for the past month I have been having some cooling problems with my car. All that is basically happening is that the car will run great and cool for about 10mins or so then after that the temp will get up to about 230 or so and I will shut it off. It will go all the way up to 250 if I let it its already happened once. So when the problem first started I replaced the water pump because it was making noises. When I replaced it everything seemed great and the problem went away, but then a week later the pump started making noises again and the problem came back. So I took it back to Oreileys and they gave me another and a week later same thing. I have now put 3 different pumps in this car and the current one is making noises and I still have my problem. Now what would make a water pump go out in a week? My air dam is working, I dont have a thermostat because the car runs coldest without one, and I have a mechanical temp gauge so I know its working. I appreciatte any help I can get guys.

 

Define "going out." Do they leak out the weep hole or what?

 

They start to make noise and my problem comes back. When The pump is new I wont have the problem at all, then the noise comes back and so does the problem, I know the noise is coming from the pump. So then I get the new one and the prob. goes away again for a while.

 

Are you buying rebuilt pumps? or new? Might think about getting your money back and find another brand somewhere else!
First, check the bad one and see if your getting any wobble out of the pulley shaft and see if the bearing is bad. Might want to check your lower hose after warm up and see if it collapsing causing the pump to "run dry" for lack of coolant.

 

Sounds like your belt might be putting too much tension on the bearings or it's offset which is then pushing (or pulling) the bearings in (or out) of the housing. With a really tight belt and mis-alignment you can go through waterpumps pretty fast. It's critical that you don't over tighten and that thigns line up.
Also be sure you're getting the right pump. Reverse rotation for the 1 belt setups, standard rotation for the v-belts.

 

I think this is the problem. When I put my power steering pump on I rented the tool from autozone and the threads were slightly stripped on the bolt and I installed the pulley and push it back as far as I could and it just didnt seem to go back as far as it should. So I figured I was just being paranoid and left it at that. Now that I look at it the PS pulley and the WP pulley are a little misaligned. So I guess I need to reinstall my PS pulley. Thanks for your help guys.

 

I think this is the problem. When I put my power steering pump on I rented the tool from autozone and the threads were slightly stripped on the bolt and I installed the pulley and push it back as far as I could and it just didnt seem to go back as far as it should. So I figured I was just being paranoid and left it at that. Now that I look at it the PS pulley and the WP pulley are a little misaligned. So I guess I need to reinstall my PS pulley. Thanks for your help guys.

 

Hope that's your problem because if not that.... find yourself a better source for water pumps. I recommend Stewartcomponents.com . They're stage 2 pump is more than awesome but the stage 1 is still a good improvement over stock.

 

One other thing that might help with the heat is a thermostat. Without one, the coolant isn't in the radiator long enough to cool down, so you're basically running hot coolant throught the motor all the time.

Just something else to think about.

 

Ive been planning on getting a stewart pump, but I didnt want to pay $150 to find out the pumps not the prob. and then have it break again. Also on the thermostat thing, I tried several and for some reason this motor just runs cooler without one. Thanks for the help guys.

 

You now that your engine has to reach a sertine temp so it can work right? You need a thermostat no matter what. you need to have that engine at a sertine temp.

 

Not really. You can super cool an engine but the effects are only increased engine wear. This is because the engines were designed to opperate at a temperature and metal changes volume depending on temperature. A piston expands as it gets hot and so does the head, valves, and cylinders (making everything "tight"). When it's cool it's '"loose."
Anyways, also the whole no thermostat causes overheating is . I spend a year designing the cooling system on a mini-formula style open wheel racer. It has no fans and doesn't overheat even with 90hp, small radiators, and an average speed of 30mph. Basic thermo equations apply to any cooling system. Basically you can't flow too much coolant! With a heat-exchanger there are 2 fluids (or a gas in this case) air and water. Increasing either the air flow or the coolant flow rates will increase the temperature drop.
So if the air flow rate is the same, increasing the coolant rate (removed thermostat) will decrease the temperature of the engine (so long as everything is sized properly).